AdamR28

Very very sweet

Read the key bits of this. Some of it's anal roadie talk, but most of it's really useful. If you learn how to build wheels then you can apply that knowledge to different types of wheel, different types of lacing, etc., whereas if you just copy a picture of something you're not going to actually know 'how' to build a wheel. It's definitely worth learning it - saves you time and money, which is always good. This is Mark, not Ads

Also forgot to add, it's only the rear 26" on a double walled rim that are at all tight

Oh yeah, forgot to add - the Try-All tyres are pretty damn tight, hard to do 100% by hand. If you use that technique then squeeze a tyre lever under the bead to hold it in place while you pull the rest off by hand, that should do the trick

http://tartybikes.co.uk/media.php?group=guides&id=6

Me too haha. That was pretty cool, nice one Dave!

Just replied to your email too.

Blast from the past Looking as sketchy as f**k in that video... not good, haha.

Looks like it: http://wck2.companieshouse.gov.uk/b8cbdac5e44a242809d8dbfdeb28dc16/wcprodorder?ft=1 GAZ1 means an application has been made for the company to be struck off DISS40 is a notice of striking-off action discontinued (usually after being contested by the company, naturally) The company also seems to be dormant (accounts filed on 1/9/09)...

Sounds more than 'friendly' to me!

GU LE 26" +60 model. Will have one for sale when it comes back from the US if you want me to get some pics for you?

Not if you want it to spin well - lower BBs make things nicer if you're only going in straight lines as they're nice and stable, but if you want a flickier, twitchier (aka spinnier) bike, you'll be wanting a slightly higher BB. Not +65 or whatever, but if you look at BMXs and other bikes that are designed specifically to be good at hops, spins and tricks you'll see they've gotten progressively higher BBs over the past few years. Obviously street MTBs don't, but that's primarily because MTBing is always at least 3-4 years behind BMX This was by Mark, just using Adam's computer at the mo

http://download.cnet.com/AVG-Anti-Virus-Free-Edition/3000-2239_4-10320142.html?tag=mncol

Short and high front end, high BB, short chainstay. Edit: Wow, SUPER bump! hehe

Which bike was that? If it's an Onza, it's slightly different. Of course, if the levers are different left and right (such as one hydraulic and one cable) we can't really swap them or the bike would look pretty bad - we leave that up to the customer. In fact, was your bike delivered with the grips removed? Which brake was that? If it's a Magura, then it's explained on the website that they are all supplied with full length hose to suit both Euro and UK markets.

Do them both at the same time, this means you'll get both mounts square to each other and therefore the rim.

The Inspireds actually hold up really well on a grind - but - they 'feel' weird. Lots of bite but not that much hold. The TNNs are quite a lot thinner than the Rock Pads because of the inbuilt concave washer, could be worth a look. The backings take 'standard' HS33 type pads too so you can swap and change easily.

The final numbers are in and you guys raised a total of £550 just by turning up, which has now been donated to charity - thanks! Adam

Email sent

If the bike is sent to the UK, we set the brakes up UK style - if it's sent to a country that uses left hand front brake, we set it up like that Simples.

That's normal. Magura could check the casting on the lever if you like (by x-ray) but we have found that this type of break isn't usually covered under warranty, sorry.

Don't overtighten it. 'Maximum torque for handlebar clamp bolt is 4Nm. Over tightening this bolt may cause the lever assembly to break and this is not covered under warranty.'

Go for it Clarkson Vs Clarkson!

Was waiting for that, haha.