AdamR28

I love it when that happens, someone breaks something and suddenly it's a terrible product Where did you get the frame from? That should be warranty-able I think, looks in decent nick.

Do it

You'll probably find out faster than me in that case Haven't ridden it yet and probably won't until Saturday... sorry!

Damn extra full stop http://tartybikes.blogspot.com/2009/12/speed-race-fans.html

Yep They are pretty cool! Rob - got somre more pics/ info here: http://tartybikes.blogspot.com/2009/12/speed-race-fans.html. I would say they are about 'middle' in terms of their position. Can get another pic if you like?

Kin 'ell, must have been hammered! Any pics?

Sprocket width makes no real-world difference with a good sprocket like Surly/Trialtech. I've never seen a Surly/Trialtech sprocket worn out, ever! Surly website lists the sprockets at 1.375" however they measure the same (33.75mm minor thread diameter) as all the 1.37" items (freewheels, other sprockets) we have in stock, and less than ENOs which are around 33.85mm+.

That's the lockring, which keeps the sprocket on the hub.

Built this back up last night (swapped brakes, pedals and bars over from my 26) and lobbed a Small Block 8 on the front to try. Weight is 7.86kg. Need to do some filming sometime soon...

Has the head tube on the frame been faced? If not, that should sort it.

Yes.

Nope.

Sort of. You DO tap to 'an' M6 thread when helicoiling, but it's M6 x 0.8 (non standard) rather than normal M6 x 1.0. So, if you have tapped out to M6 x 1.0, there is no way you can go back to M5 x 0.8 now.

http://tartybikes.co.uk/content.php?short_name=price_promise

http://live.swisstrial.ch/

Now don't go trying to take credit for this idea

Ben - you're doing it wrong

Bend the very end of the spoke at 90 degrees, poke it through the gap in the dropout in front of the axle bolt, then wind a couple of coils around the washer on the drive side end of the axle (between frame and hub shell)

Quite a few months. None at all. Nope. In fact, the tensioner wears down because it's (relatively soft) stainless steel. I wouldn't trust yours Matt unfortunately, it needs at least 2 coils to produce enough force to stay in the groove of the chain. Without any coils, the spoke just bends and tension falls away.

That was a lot of people's beef with modstock frames when they first came about, but it's still not true. Echo 20" fixed rear hub flange spacing at the time was 2-3mm WIDER than a 135mm King SS hub.

http://www.waspinator.co.uk/ - Got one and it seems to work!

The thing with the Echo bearings is that there are 2 sets, one each side of the pawl mechanism. This helps to keep everything in alignment, and even though they are open, they can resist a lot more load than the ENO because that only has one bearing. I guess the machining quality is not *quite* as good as an ENO, but they are made in the USA and more expensive... The quality of the material is very good though, Echo test each batch to make sure it's within spec. We have seen photos of a huge rejected batch because the hardness was not good enough.

We have seen many more problems with ENO than Echo SL (such as pawls breaking, teeth in the ratchet chipping), but not many ENO outer pieces breaking, I would say only about as many as Echo SL. If you had an ENO for 4-5 years then an SL should last forever!

One on OTN?