AdamR28

If you can get it apart and lube the pawls and springs with light oil that's your best bet, however it can be a bit tricky (loose bearings) so if you want us to take a look that's no problem. I'm off next week though and I'm not sure how confident the rest of the guys would be with that job, so you could try squirting some very thin lube (like WD40) between the centre piece and outer (where the teeth are) and seeing if that helps. Anything to drive water out of there is good!

Has the bike been near any water at all? We had a similar issue with a TR freewheel a couple of weeks back and the inside of the freewheel was really rusty. A clean up and some lube made it better than new.

We had a lot of them break at the top of the disc mount (26") so stopped selling them...

Not sure what you guys are doing, we've never had a problem with ones fitted here I had one on my commuting bike too and it was perfect (only changed it so I could fit gears). The O Ring is just to hold the bolt in place (push it out and you can see how the system works), the head of the bolt butts up against the main arm of the tensioner to lock the arm against the hanger. The angle of the arm isn't what is designed to add the tension. In fact, having the arm NOT like in the photo, but tucked up against the chainstay, is the correct way to fit it. If you have it sticking down, then heavy landings will force the arm up towards the frame and loosen the bolt. Here is how we set them up: - Undo the pinch bolt for the lower cage (4mm allen key) - Set the arm up so its just underneath the chainstay (or touching) - Drop the chain off your front sprocket and let it rest around your BB axle - Line up the lower cage with your rear sprocket (left-right), then pull the bottom of the lower cage backwards to get the chain taught. - Nip the pinch bolt up - Pedal the chain back onto your front sprocket; this adds tension to the spring and you're good to go

It is a Pro2 Trials, yes? (silver freehub body, not gold)

Yerrss...

All courier services EXCEPT Saturday Guarantee are next WORKING day - so if you ordered something now it wouldn't get to you til Monday unfortunately. Your best bet is to go with 1st Class and keep your fingers crossed

+1

Trudat! I'll try and force the work camera upon them

Is this the one that you snapped a tooth off after hitting it?

It's actually a very different caliper to the Mono Trial: http://thebloomingpoint.com/files/2009/12/hope-techv2vtd-203mm-Vented-Rotor+Level+Hose.jpg Post mount and spring return for pads are the main differences. At one point I believe the Moto had the same sized pistons (or might have been 24mm - Mono Trial is 25) but the brakes on the Atomz 20" are definitely not 24mm or above, look more like 20-22. Shame Hope are going to force us all to use the Moto Caliper for 'trials' brakes in future

Nah you couldn't get on the track, but walked all the way round and past Eau Rouge and it is fecking steep, looks completely flat on the TV in comparison!

Hmm, I'm not sure about that, I don't think there's much in it. If you have both the frames to compare the tubing on the FANS is much thicker than the Limey, especially the downtube. Since the FANS has no built in booster, no 'wings', much smaller dropouts, no bash mounts it can use thicker tubing while still being lighter than the Limey.

Interestingly, the Trialtech Sport bars have 8mm more rise than the Tensiles, and the same rise as the Pro720s! Agreed about the Echo bars though, the shape isn't to my taste.

That's the same with pretty much any crank though

The Acidrop? You wouldn't believe how similar the geo is to frames that people are crying out for nowadays...

Trudat. Tarty Brain Fail­™ once again.

M30x1.0 I believe, same as the lockring on XTR M950 cranks. Yes, lifetime warranty, but not against mong-i-ness: 'Warranty excludes tapers, splines and threads. '

Can't believe that shitty Cygnet is £20k... Koxx Acidrop frame is currently £110...

European Legislation

Very much doubt that would work unfortunately, not without a 180mm long BB axle or something... Or just to grow a pair and sort it out We've asked if they can try with the current tool but they won't do it - I'm convinced there's enough meat in the standard tooling to make it work... If they don't take 2 or 3 threads off with that silly chamfer and cut a bit into the arm it should work...

Yeah, bit of a bummer but the 'bodge' you've worked out is defo a good one! For the amount of times you need to use the top cap I guess it's alright.

Ah - well with a King the chamfers on the races are very small, so I've found they need to be 'overtight' to be tight enough for a trials bike (which is why I went off them a few years back). Fine on an XC bike as you aren't ragging the hell out of the bars/forks all the time, but mine was a bit of a pest on my trials bike unfortunately. The top wedge also isn't split, so they don't compress and grip your steerer when you tighten them down, meaning you need to get a lot of torque in the top cap bolt to make them feel tight. I would probably go with the 'nip top cap down then turn stem to tighten some more' system you've been using in the past

I know what you mean, if you go to town on the top cap then it does have quite a bit of friction, but grease has always 'solved' that for me in the past. Sounds like there is something wrong with the headset in that case, you really don't need a lot of torque on the top cap to remove play. Which headset is it? Edit: Just been to check a bike with Inspired forks on it (same top cap system), it's possible to tighten the top cap by hand (ie. no tools) enough to remove play in the headset.

Ferrari Internatinal Assistance to the rescue again. Disappointed Vettel was fastest in 2nd practice today... Lewis and Jenson were flying for a while! Backtracking - went to Spa the other weekend and was sat at the bus stop on Sunday, so got to see allll the action! Nearly pooed myself when Lewis was scrubbing the wall, but was funny seeing Vettel screw himself over twice Looking forward to Quali and the next race!