AdamR28

They are very stretchy and the sizing chart we produced is accurate. I have a set myself in the larger size, 38cm calf. Would probably buy Hebo next time as I prefer the styling.

Ah, I mean he used to go through them like underwear, rather than different frames being in the photos. There was a massive plie of broken ones when I used to work at Supercycles back in the day.

But obviously not the same one

The washer helps prevent the pedal coming loose. Threads, if damaged, can be repaired cheaply.

Cheap fix though, and you're more likely to damage the cranks from loose pedals than overtightening.

Exactly that: pedal threads are designed to self tighten when ridden normally, so by default they come loose when pedalling backwards. Give them plenty of torque (60Nm or so) and they'll stay put. Pedal washers help too.

That is the 'problem' with pro riders...

Insane as always!

It is easy to run out of steam with these things, building a reliable kit car is nothing like a quick engine swap, a bit wiring, or new gearbox in a normal car. Kit cars are also never actually finished...

Now that is cheap...

Haha thats quite an optical illusion! Looks like a disc mount but pretty sure it's the spider / rivets on the rotor... I like these frames more than I should, looks fun and good to see you on a bike again dude!

New build costs are nothing like advertised, sadly. Sounds obvious when you write it down like this but... a kit car has infinitely more possibility of going wrong than any 'proper' car. Needs very open eyes at 'entry level'. Have had a couple of Fisher Furys, both around the 5k level actually - they are well thought out. That Haynes at 5.5k would be a bargain!

Mike, that looks ok, quite a modern engine for that price point which is good. Perhaps has spent a lot of time outside, bodywork is faded around where the tonneau goes. Sam, that looks like a really nice car. I reckon it'll go for 7-8k. Close to me if you wanted someone to come along while you take a look at it Mike!

5-7k. Rot not an issue.

You'll struggle to get something decent for 5k. Be prepared to still get "hands on" at the top end of your budget, unless you fall very lucky. Build quality trumps spec and brand (Robin Hood are known for being awful though). Feel free to post up some links of cars for sale, happy to take a look - have had half a dozen kit cars over of various styles over the last 10 years, and worked on many more.

Possible to modify the peak a bit so it can move up and out of your eyeline?

New cables, and a set of sticky pads such as the Jitsie ones.

#stalkers

Cheap, light, strong: pick two.

Age is just a number, I'm older and still playing about on a kids bike

Agreed. The latest Pures feel rather stretched out too, and thus long, due to the low bar / stem.

Nah, the pawl are completely free to move in that situation, so no noises caused, just a delay in engaging. The wear should be even in theory, the chance of each pawl being 'the one' is equal. Again, doesn't sound like anything to worry about, perfectly normal given the design.

Hmm. Thats more than I'd expect or like to see, but it wouldn't cause the hub to skip, it will just increase the amount of time between pawl clicking in and drive being taken up (because the pawl gets dragged out of its seat while coasting, then has to re-seat when you put the power on). As an aside, when they released this freehub system that is exactly what I anticipated would happen, there's no way one pawl seat can take all that load and not stretch / wear. That's the other thing with all these hubs with a bazillion engagement points, none of them take up instantly. There is always a delay while the mechanism engages, so you could actually have more delay at the pedals on a hub that technically has more EPs.

I'd go BB7 from those three choices.

Buying a house is always a horrendous experience. So many f**kwits, dishonest people, lazy people - all getting in the way. Batten down the hatches and expect a long haul...