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AdamR28
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Everything posted by AdamR28
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No worries - I used what I had lying around, possibly 'Araldite Rapid'... It it comes undone I'll try something more posh, cheers for the heads up! Indeed, I'd never noticed before but it smells and feels remarkably like Brasso I looked at stock tubing but it was only up to around 1.7mm thick and at ~£45 for 0.5m minimum order you can guess the rest of this sentence!
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Agree to disagree I guess The shear strength of the glue should be approx 12 MPa - not really got time to do the maths at the mo but it sounds like a big number haha I've generally found that theory and practice are pretty much unrelated when it comes to trials stuff (apart from very clear-cut situations, of course), but yeah, see how it gets on.
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I have no reason to think it won't work (or I wouldn't have done it, haha) since the glue is pretty strong in shear and I made some axial marks in the hub shell too (but they looked horribly messy so there are no pics of them ). The spokes should take all the force really - the only time the carbon bit will be under torsion is if I'm pedalling and braking at the same time (which is kinda 'incorrect'). The carbon is ~3mm thick so I have no concerns about that breaking! I was tempted not to bother gluing the carbon in fact, but wondered if it would have an effect on the durability of the axle. Rob: Yeah if you make it only of carbon (rather than fibreglass skin underneath) and it's longer than ~100mm I can defo see how heating would be required. A good tip for the future - cheers! More projects... well I just came up with an idea for a front hub but I'll have to think/doodle more on that one...
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Cheers man! Carbon is done by hand (which is why it looks a bit poop - plus I needed the bore to be the smooth bit in this case). I should have sanded the fibreglass down a bit first but that's hindsight... The mandrel doesn't need heating, everything is done cold. With some polish and release agent the fibreglass doesn't stick well and came off pretty easily after it was split with a stanley knife (you can see the cut line in one of the pics). The fibreglass goes off after about 20 mins and the carbon takes around 12 hours (6-8 hours to go 'tacky'). Did all the lathe work manually too, not investigated the auto-travel yet but I'm gonna investigate threads soon so will get onto that
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As you may or may not know, I bust the rear hub on my bike recently so decided to custom make one. It was about 2 years old so had done pretty well! I based it around a 116mm Echo SL Rear Disc hub. The reason for using the 116mm hub is that the disc side bearing is in a much better place (further outboard) than all the other disc hubs available right now. Took the hub apart and cut the hub shell up, then tidied it up. Put some grooves in to help the glue (and sanded off the anodising for a better key). Doodles/calculations... Making the carbon part was fairly tricky but with the right tools not too bad. Started with a copper pipe, polished up: Wrapped it in fibreglass Sliced it off once cured Shiny inside, exactly 22.00mm diameter to match the flanges where it would be pressed onto. Should have sanded it smooth at this point, since the 'lumps' show right through the carbon on the final piece Back on the mandrel, then coated with carbon fibre resin - you let the resin go off a bit so it's tacky and the carbon cloth sticks to it Carbon ready to cure While that was doing, started on the axle Cool swarf, hehe Further along doing the axle 'Roughed' axle - with hindsight I should have done the axle last so I knew all the exact measurements. This would have meant I didn't need to re-clamp it which causes alignment issues and takes extra time and reduces accuracy a bit. Checking to see how the hub would look Carbon cured and ends cut off, testing fit - carbon was a nice press fit onto the flanges, win. Checking fit Turning the carbon down to the right length Rads on the bore to match those on the flanges All the parts on the scales before the axle was finished Drilling the axle out More axle work Finished axle (middle is solid, 7mm diameter so plenty strong enough, cold maybe remove a few more grams here but probably won't bother) Complete hub. 'Official' Echo 135mm Disc rear version is 194g Weight including all the hardware More doodles and calculations... Finished hub! Should be able to get it built up tonight Any questions just ask Ads
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If you get here before about half 5, yes
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Hub is finished! Quite chuffed with how it came out Full pics and info here:
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Yeah, there seem to be plenty around Abergele (where the train station is): http://www.locationstocamp.com/kinmel+bay
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Exactly the same as with a bleed nipple
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Thanks for your comments everyone, glad you enjoyed it. 'Feeling like you were there' was the idea of the video pretty much Hoping to get some more vids done soon... Edit: Cap used to ride for ZOO and has been riding for a pretty long time now. Used to be a right basher but now he's got a light bike he's getting smooth
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Some people are just born to ride a bike - nice stuff Ben! Hopefully see you up this way sometime for a bit of riding?
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Hello all, Went for a ride in Blackburn a few weeks ago, took the camera, filmed some stuff, here's the result. Nothing fancy, just clips stuck together to remind us of a fun ride. Was cold and pretty slippery so there are some decent bails, haha. Thanks to Mark for filming me decking it a lot Hope you like! Ads
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Tune make some sweet stuff I think my headset (Echo SL) is around 60g with modifications and two new (one aluminium, one carbon) split wedges, so if you know anyone with a lathe you could make the Tune one even lighter...
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Uploading now It was Mark's first ride on this bike though... and same for Stan on his Echo I think. And it was cold and slippery... Excuses at the ready
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Here you go: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Kinmel&daddr=53.2667966,-3.5371984+to:Pen-Sarn,+Abergele,+Conwy+LL22,+United+Kingdom&hl=en&geocode=FTCzLAMdqCfK_ymjwQe7DyZlSDEDy4rpc9uEFw%3BFWzJLAMd0gbK_yltT-eXESZlSDFwgHvCI4sNEw%3BFcc0LQMdNV7J_ylpVVJ6AidlSDERP5LgJIsNJg&mra=dpe&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=14&via=1&sll=53.270552,-3.5394&sspn=0.03706,0.077162&ie=UTF8&ll=53.277583,-3.55691&spn=0.037054,0.077162&t=h&z=14
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Put 5psi more in and try again - the grip still isn't as good as a Kaiser, but you will find it more stable with a bit more air in and the springiness and lightness of that tyre does suit some people.
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Yes. Couple of weeks - confirmed the geo: 1050 wheelbase, 390 chainstay - not sure if that changes anything!
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A week earlier won't make such a big difference really
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Already available in the UK too. Best weight/strength ratio in 20" forks I would say V!Z Lights - although it's unclear if you are after V brake forks..?
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Yeah got a small lathe, great fun to play with! Will just bond the carbon on, there shouldn't be much force on it since the spokes will take that.
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Rear hub broke Lathe to the rescue! Gonna have to make a mandrel so I can make a carbon sleeve that's the right size... Will update further when I've done more if anyone's interested.
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^^ As Ali said. Strictly speaking you *can* use the 5mm shroud with braided hose, but you will have a hard time getting it on and you'll have to strip loads of the plastic cover off which will look messy. There is only one banjo size/type now, the one on CRC is the old type (the barb is alloy so it snapped easily during fitting).
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You can fall off and lot and be funny? Dates are 3/4/5th June for Woodfest.