AdamR28

What does -- mean?

Draw yourself a diagram, that will definitely be a good start. Edit: Just realised you've already done one. Well you know A + B + D = 180, so A + B = 151. If it's an isosceles triangle then the answer is obvious... Edit: Question was changed! I'm not a complete retard lol

What did you clean everything with first time? If the pads are shiny then that's fine.

To be honest I would re-build it before riding.

http://forums.pepipoo.com/lofiversion/index.php/t18947.html http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=2916670

Most of the weight is in the high number of bearings (the hub shell ones are large too) required for a freehub. The freehub body is pretty hefty too (being steel). You've probably got over 100g of bearings in the Pro2, whereas a fixed rear hub will only be about 40g. Then you have the huge bolts... In all honesty I wouldn't bother trying to save weight on the hub, you will notice it a lot more in rotational weight (lighter rim tape, alloy nipples, etc). If you want to shed static weight then the best way would be front freewheel.

The Monty cams are pretty small (maximum adjustment is at 20mm) as you said, but don't rule out smooth cams (like the V!Z ones) since you can easily put your own notches in them with a round file

Unless you use a lot larger sprockets (diameter) than now, I don't think it will work. I am working on a side project with belt drive bikes, the belts aren't designed to take such forces. I would love to be proved wrong though

The Inspired ones don't really sell, so there is no reason that the Trialtech ones would unfortunately!

No - it would be a major hassle.

Haven't tried one, sorry dude!

Yeah, we've done a couple over the years actually.

And what's required by law!

That will probably be down to the stiffness, since the Trialtechs are a lot stiffer they will generally feel less 'comfortable'.

Out of interest, what makes them 'feel a lot better'? Just curious as the specs are very similar!

Yeah, pretty close! I've used pretty much all the lightweight rear tyres, my preference in order is: Trial Queen Hi Roller 2.5" Single Ply Rubber Queen That's not the definitive answer though, if you like to rim out a lot and use low pressures, you won't like either of the above tyres. - so stick with a Dual Ply Maxxis or Rain King/Der Kaiser.

Interesting idea. I'm working on a project involving belt drive bikes at the moment - it's an awesome system for 'normal' bikes, but I'm pretty sure it won't work for trials... The belts are manufactured to the safety standard/breaking load that all MTB chains have to meet, but as we all know, MTB chains don't work for trials... Edit: Pretty sure that's some kinda of singlespeeder setup as those look like the 'normal' ENOs, not the trials ones...

Didn't 'plan' that route, but off the top of my head, probably would have used some braided tube (http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/carbon-fibre-reinforcement/carbon-fibre-braided-sleeve.aspx - wish I'd have used that actually!) then an old inner tube inflated through the inside to squeeze against the inside of tube with 22mm ID. It's room temp curing resin Edit: Now found this tube which is a fair bit cheaper than I'd seen before, again - if I'd know about that I probably would have used it instead!: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/Products/carbon-fibre-tube-roll-wrapped-22-2mm.aspx

I might have! I'll have a look on my old HD later if I remember...

It is the radius of the rotor that determines it's leverage around the hub (and thus braking power), so going from 180 to 200 is ~11% increase in power (the ratio between 90 and 100mm). What bike is this for exactly?

12.5% theoretically.

Could probably do it but might make a mess! Not keen on the super shiny look for CF though or I would have moulded the sleeve 'inside out' (if that makes sense).