AdamR28

Didn't think of the freeze spray - cheers for that!

Hopefully..! The new mandrel is aluminium, which has a much larger coefficient of thermal expansion, I've heard of people 'freezing' the tube out so I'm gonna give it a go... If not - boring bar time as you said!

Great wheels for the price and the axle nuts will hold your wheel tighter than any M6 bolt. Handy video:

Just a small Axminster one, not particularly good quality but does the job for small bits. Might do a front one if I get time... The hub has actually died to an extent - however nothing to do with the bits that people speculated might break! The fibreglass inner layer was too soft and deformed, so the hub started creaking and it was really annoying. The carbon was intact and the glue held well, but I had to destroy it to remove the flanges. Got another centre piece curing at the moment made of 100% carbon - braided sleeve and pressure tape - hoping my freezer will be cold enough to shrink the mandrel to release it...

Brake - love it. My last 15 trials bikes have had rear disc. There is no pad wobble when set up correctly, but there is some spoke flex. I'm used to it but it's personal preference. Yes, you need to make the guard over 180 degrees so it clips on. Freewheel was taken off since there is a problem that becomes apparent when the freewheel is used 'for real' that isn't evident on the test rig. Rockman are looking into it and the freewheels have been taken off sale until it's sorted. I should have a new sample in the next week or so to try. Rear hub also bust - however nothing to do with the bits that we thought might break! The fibreglass inner layer was too soft and deformed, so the hub started creaking and it was really annoying. The carbon was intact and the glue held well, but I had to destroy it to remove the flanges. Got another centre piece curing at the moment made of 100% carbon, hoping my freezer will be cold enough to shrink the mandrel to release it...

If the allen key fitting has rounded out, it will be TIGHT - no way a screwdriver's getting that out. best way would be to drill the head off, 5mm drill bit, then a 6 if it won't quite release. Once the head's off the pressure will be released from the thread and the rest will come out easily.

They are a totally new pedal, you can see the extra bracing ribs between the body and 'arms' on photos.

Unfortunately they are designed for SPD use, so they will be really stiff and pretty horrible for trials. Bit of shameless self-promotion, just dropped the price on our existing stock of FiveTen Freeriders, and pretty sure we have a size 11 in stock...

They actually have one of each... I think this thread pretty much proves that you can use almost anything as fluid in a hydraulic rim brake!

Either the head tube is flared (stretched), or the caustic soda you used to strip the frame has removed some material too, so the head tube is now oversized.

Yep. Internal = cups go inside the frame (ie. internally), integrated = no cups, bearings go straight into the frame.

You have the right headset there. The headset should be ~44.10mm and the head tube ~44.00mm. On small point to make is that the Onza head tube isn't quite standard so a 'correct' internal headset won't insert fully into the head tube - but that's nothing to do with the diameter. What did you use to remove the anodising? Pretty sure internal headsets are all 44.0mm. Integrated though, that's a minefield.

Bearing in mind the size I had to shrink it down to to fit it on the blog's page, writing in non capitals would've made it pretty tricky to read. As I said, my hand-writing's shit so I thought clear and legible would be the way to go... This was Mark

That's pretty normal and doesn't make any difference to the function of the freewheel.

Seems that the 'new' 2 finger brakes are more powerful than the old ones. As for the lever travel, that's personal preference I guess, but on the 05 model I much prefer the 4-finger blade, and on the new model I prefer the shape of the lever travel on the 2-finger blade .

Mine did that last week - alarm kept gong off by itself too.

Use Nitromors.

Hadn't seen most of the replies to this thread since it got bumped! Mark's got the name pretty much right - I had a very 'tarty' bike maybe 12 years ago so got the nickname 'the tart' amongst riding friends, and 'Tarty Bikes' just kinda ended up as the name! I'm a little humbled by Matt and Juan Manuel's comments, thank you very much guys. I get pretty stressed out with it at times (ask the guys who work here :$ ) but hopefully it's worth it to ensure that you guys can get a decent supply of products. As Matt said, of course there is some financial benefit (or the shop would close down!), but I genuinely feel during day to day work that it's not the main 'driving force' by a long shot luckily! Thanks again.

Me

Longer BB needed, that one looks like a 113 or 118, you'll need 122.5 or 127.5

Yes, and not if you're careful and don't let the piston fall out

Ahh - crossed wires - no need to be sorry! I meant that I didn't think a 2.4", 870g tyre would be any thicker (and thus more puncture resistant) than a Single Ply Maxxis, since if there is more material (to make it puncture resistant) it would have to be heavier. But, it seems like there is somje voodoo magic going on somewhere in the Schwalbe factory

I'm not sure how a tyre at that weight wouldn't be 'Single Ply', but let us know how you get on

To be honest I would leave the pads, if the brake isn't making a squealing noise they should be fine. Disc brakes work on a totally different principle to rim brakes, everything needs to be flat, smooth and free from contaminants (oil, tar, dirt, even the oils in your skin will reduce brake performance!). My advice would be to check the set up again - pads hitting squarely, at the same time, no rubbing etc - then go outside with some cold, clean water and chuck some on the rotors. Scrub the brakes on and off lightly and you will probably start to see black gunk dripping off the rotors. Clean this off (loo roll works great), apply more water, and repeat until the water stays clear. That should clean them up nicely Very difficult to diagnose stuff like this without the bike, but give that a go and things should improve...

Yeah that's what I thought.