AdamR28

Tried what, exactly?

Those are your main problems unfortunately, the brake isn't much kop for trials and the frame/hub aren't really compatible - hub is 106mm and frame is 116mm - BUT it can be made to work. You'll need to get the brake mount faced on the frame, that will make a huge difference. Give the brake a full service and re-bleed. Bin off the chain tugs to use snail cams - this will move the caliper closer to the frame so you can get rid of the nasty long bolts and all the extra washers. You'll have to love with the frame being squeezed in, not ideal but I did it on my Czar and it worked.

Win. I can't wait! (For the clocks to go forward, not you to do that gap again )

Would it be ok for me to check which items and how much it was please? Obviously sending stuff 11000 miles is never cheap, but we work really hard to get the best rates we can for international shipping. I think you said above that Trials-UK had quoted the price incorrectly and it was going to end up more expensive than ours?

Not April yet I guess, but it's clearly photoshop lol

Good enough to get a front puncture and put a hole in your tyre from tapping like a basher anyway

Ah yeah, that will be Phil's!

That was our guess too.

Hello gents, Just had a call from the guy who owns the stone yard in Oxford that people ride, he saw a vehicle there with our logos on (CCTV) and wanted to quiz us about it. He's not too impressed about people 'breaking in' (as he put it) to ride the stones and is gonna get the police involved if he sees anyone else there... Just thought I'd give a heads up! Ads

Both - and SpeedRace now too.

Take the piston out and look inside the cylinder. Take note of where the bleed port is. You have to orientate the lever differently to an HS33 to get a good bleed, once you know the position of the outlet it's easy.

At the risk of sounding a bit silly... Google is probably the first place to go.

How and why would the frame snap because of the carbon tube?

That's my thinking with most stuff like this... and if it's not, blowtorch, new carbon, more glue, try again!

Doesn't look like it - apparently multi-axial fibres though... I should have consulted the oracle (you ) first it seems!

Hmm. Should be 100% carbon, looks like it's been rolled around a mandrel (you can see the layers) then pressure tape wrapped...

Hopefully it will 1.474kg including chain tensioners. Might do the downtube too...

Took a hacksaw, file and grinder to the frame last night... And put some carbon in. Will take a few days for the glue to cure but Stan will give it a bashing at the weekend

Didn't think of the freeze spray - cheers for that!

Hopefully..! The new mandrel is aluminium, which has a much larger coefficient of thermal expansion, I've heard of people 'freezing' the tube out so I'm gonna give it a go... If not - boring bar time as you said!

Great wheels for the price and the axle nuts will hold your wheel tighter than any M6 bolt. Handy video:

Just a small Axminster one, not particularly good quality but does the job for small bits. Might do a front one if I get time... The hub has actually died to an extent - however nothing to do with the bits that people speculated might break! The fibreglass inner layer was too soft and deformed, so the hub started creaking and it was really annoying. The carbon was intact and the glue held well, but I had to destroy it to remove the flanges. Got another centre piece curing at the moment made of 100% carbon - braided sleeve and pressure tape - hoping my freezer will be cold enough to shrink the mandrel to release it...

Brake - love it. My last 15 trials bikes have had rear disc. There is no pad wobble when set up correctly, but there is some spoke flex. I'm used to it but it's personal preference. Yes, you need to make the guard over 180 degrees so it clips on. Freewheel was taken off since there is a problem that becomes apparent when the freewheel is used 'for real' that isn't evident on the test rig. Rockman are looking into it and the freewheels have been taken off sale until it's sorted. I should have a new sample in the next week or so to try. Rear hub also bust - however nothing to do with the bits that we thought might break! The fibreglass inner layer was too soft and deformed, so the hub started creaking and it was really annoying. The carbon was intact and the glue held well, but I had to destroy it to remove the flanges. Got another centre piece curing at the moment made of 100% carbon, hoping my freezer will be cold enough to shrink the mandrel to release it...

If the allen key fitting has rounded out, it will be TIGHT - no way a screwdriver's getting that out. best way would be to drill the head off, 5mm drill bit, then a 6 if it won't quite release. Once the head's off the pressure will be released from the thread and the rest will come out easily.

They are a totally new pedal, you can see the extra bracing ribs between the body and 'arms' on photos.