AdamR28

Interesting reading, thanks Julien! Agree with some of the points.

Nay problemo That guide is probably a bit OTT for a brake cylinder to be fair... but may be handy in future!

Nitromors, ~200 grit sandpaper, wet n dry (wet), cloth and polish (in that order) This guide looks decent too, but very in depth: http://www.poleringsguide.se/english/

Try: - More preload - More 'pop', jump hard and fast rather than building up speed gradually. - Jump upwards as well. - Straghten your legs mid air to push the back wheel out towards the landing, this will let you 'reach' a bit further, then you can bend your legs as you land and not slam the back wheel into the landing. I'm no gapping genius, and I find a lot of it is just practice, but the above may help

The new carbon bit is about 80% done, but I'm playing around with other stuff at the moment...

Yeha a good quality drill bit should do the job I'd have thought...

From what size? What item is it? How deep is the hole?

Not that I know of, we've been searching for around the last year since they stopped making the Collapse. The Tank chain is completely OTT really. See my post above for recommendations. The 710 is a good chain, but in our opinion/experience/customer's experiences the Z610/Z510 are better, but ONLY in HX model.

Z610HX, or Z510HX if you aren't very good at joining chains.

They are discontinued unfortunately. And half link chains are dodgy on trials bikes.

My guess is that your bike shop hasn't bled them correctly. The Goodridge stuff is very tricky to bleed. If you can move the lever blade before the pads start to move, then take them back and get them to do it again

I think it would be possible with some modification.

I've used the same set of aluminium Pro-Bolts since we started stocking them in June 2008 and they are still like new. The amount of time a bolt lasts is 100% down to the user - selecting the right bolt for the application, then using the correct tools and procedures to install/maintain them. The bolts in the Echo booster are titanium, using the incorrect allen key will damage them instantly.

Ideally you would lathe down the piston until it fits... but sandpaper/filel would do the job if you are careful. Take the seals off first though!

Thanks for picking up on that

Yeah, the Rockman forks have less offset so that makes the wheelbase shorter... But it's only really a number.

That's the 'problem' with making stuff... People for years have been moaning that Echo haven't made a Disc AND 4-Bolt frame, then when they do you get an opposite comment, haha.

Magura bleed hose

Borrow one, hehe.

Track pump? We once had to get one up to 140psi before it started to move...

Exactly, such as: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/bash_rings/neon_bow_halfring/c1p11484.html http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/bash_rings/trialtech_titanium_halfring/c1p10557.html Etc.

Unless it's gonna be steel, that will deform pretty quickly... you need some sort of 'bracing' in the big hole.

As above! In video form: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_hydraulic_rim_brake_setup/m3.html

Yep, #3 caliper: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/disc_brake_spares/hope_mono_trial_caliper/c110p10955.html?tab=additional_information#box

Pretty sure you will need a 'proper' tool to make crank bolts, as you'll be torquing them down quite hard... with the fork insert, there is no resistance at all.