AdamR28

Yeah, not used to seeing that - but its function of... - The heat affected zone: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSlDXDSOT6NB9LX3nAbg4az74aJg8wjTRe-hA&usqp=CAU - And the failure type - (deliberately) taking the material past its ultimate strength, which exposes the HAZ. Most bike frame failures are from fatigue (lots of cycles rather than one big load), and the stress riser related to this is right at the edge of the weld. Especially common on aluminium obviously, as the ductility (percentage elongation before the yield point of the material is found) is about half that of steel - so that's the usual places you see cracks. This silicon bronze stuff has a super high elongation percentage of around 60% (aluminium 10, steel 20, ish) so I'm hoping that will give the tubing an easier life and maybe even 'soften' the ride of the frame... But yeah, doing my own research even if it is in an unconventional direction has worked for me in the past, so thought I might as well do the same again!

Short answer, no. Long answer, the filler material is different to the fillet (torch) brazed stuff you see that has been smoothed off. That is brass based and relatively soft, so you can tidy it up pretty easily (though it still takes ages). If you attack this stuff with a file or hacksaw it basically just skates right over. Its really tough, much more so than the T45 / 4130 tubing I'm using. This is how I know I'm happy with the slightly more 'rustic' look (after all the frame will end up with rust patches long term), and using bronze is much more stone-age. I also have some silver to braze the bottle cage mounts in. Just need to find some gold to complete the trio... ha.

Quoting yourself, is that an internet faux pas? Probably. Anyway I don't mind doing things differently. They say you can't or shouldn't TIG braze a bike frame or bad things will happen. So guess what I've been experimenting with? This technique is a weird hybrid of brazing and welding, not the same as fillet brazing people like Curtis and Leeson use, or regular TIG like most of the mass produced frames. For TIG brazing you use the TIG torch as your heat source (instead of a blow lamp), but a copper based filler material (hence the lovely colour!) which melts at a much lower temperature than the steel tubing. There's an advantage - less heat being used means a reduced HAZ, in theory anyway. Like brazing, you never melt the parent metal, so the filler just sits on top, and you need nice big fillets for strength / adhesion. Therefore: TIG brazing. I tested some joints back to back against normal TIG welding, and I'm happy it's strong enough... both failed in exactly the same way and with little to no difference in force required. So maybe I'll die, maybe I won't. Although the legendary Frank The Welder says he used to stick brake mounts onto Yeti frames using this technique and never had one fail... Either way its been fun playing with new stuff, and my original thoughts of a candy orange paintjob have gone out the window - clear coat, or maybe boiled linseed oil, it is!

Thanks Ross, I think that's the same one as earlier in the thread? I've ended up with a kind of semi horizontal dropout, so in theory you can just sit on the bike with the drive side wheel bolt loose, then tighten it up... No close up photos on my phone but can maybe make them out here... Basically a neat, modernised version of oldskool road bike dropouts!

Another 'hidden' Brexit fallout issue - to ship to the UK, sellers in Europe now have to be registered for VAT in the UK. Whoever thought that was a good idea needs a slap. Hence most of the European shops now refusing to send to us. Imagine if all EU countries were the same? That would mean 28 different VAT numbers for each company, and 28 sets of accounts. Ridiculous. Classic Boris all of this, show off the 'benefits' of 'what he's achieved for us' but sweep the shit under the carpet...

Industry 9, fits straight in: https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/135mm_free_hubs/industry_nine_hydra_classic_single_speed_6b_rear/c148p13965.html Liking the little custom bits, Alex!

https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/workshop/tartybikes_crank_pedal_thread_repair_helicoiling/c34p11260.html This damage only happens if the pedal is ridden while loose. More torque and more frequent tightening usually does the job.

Always a pleasure watching you Dan. Endo pivot was mega!

Have to say I generally agree with this. Although: - I think if you can go into this sort of thing with the mindset from the beginning that the bike will never be 'great' for anything, you can manage. I'm currently doing quite a lot of MTB riding on a rigid singlespeed 26" wheeled MTB with 22:14 gear ratio, and as long as I remember I can't hit big jumps and need to pick lines downhill (rather than just smashing through stuff like you can on most modern bikes) its a lot of fun - especially on technical stuff and because I can do a bit of trials while out and about too. - The optimum number of bikes is n+1, of course

Beauty!

Over 2 years from the Stan's in the front wheel on my MTB. With a huge dent in the rim.

Was thinking of you when I did it Glad to be of service.

Thanks Gav! Haha, @Topsy, you ain't seen my welding yet

Frame #2 ready for welding! Used nice butted tubing this time, so is 1.86kg as shown and hoping for a hair under 2kg when complete. Mitres all cut by clamping the tubes in the lathe with a home made, er, clamp, and then sticking a holesaw through. Gives nice results and should make welding easier. This is end intended end result... bit of a weird bike, but its a lot of fun for general MTB duties with a bit of light trials thrown in. Sus forks can be swapped in easily too.

Nah, can't be a Marino, that photo is all wrong. It'd be more like this. I jest... Just looks like another blatant direct copy of a certain premium brand, but with catalogue dropouts? I'm not sure the Marino ones are that neat. Edit: Looks like Mark's right: "Handgeschweisst von Marino Bikes in Peru"

Der Kaiser.

Nice work, that gap just kept on growing! Might feel odd at first, but I think you'd benefit from 5-10psi more in the rear tyre. All that squidging generally makes the bike feel unresponsive and uncontrolled, rather than like you're attached to it, if that makes sense...

I can identify with that ,) Small bikes for the win, there's a reason I ride mod! Glad to hear you're enjoying it.

If you check the build thread, you'll understand why! Peter has definitely had to do some head scratching and put the time in to make this work. Looks good and a great weight!

A disc protector is a possible solution if worried about hitting rear discs. I would say its a worthwhile upgrade over a rim brake. Never seen a weld fail on a Jitsie frame, they are as good in that respect as anyone else.

Ah. Just plain c**ts then. Phone the new agent and make the same offer

Might be something to do with the hint at possibly extending the stamp duty holiday in the upcoming budget. However, that sucks to not even hear back...

I would say that disproves the theory, actually. What does a £410k house in London look like compared to a £280k house in the North East? Both are 10x average salary... https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/find.html?locationIdentifier=REGION^87490&insId=1&minPrice=400000&maxPrice=425000&radius=3.0&googleAnalyticsChannel=buying https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/find.html?keywords=&sortType=2&minPrice=270000&viewType=LIST&channel=BUY&index=0&maxPrice=290000&radius=20.0&locationIdentifier=REGION^21129 Completely agree that London prices are f**ked, and therefore it drives commuter belt prices up too. I can only think much bigger taxes on 2nd homes and empty properties are the way to go, it has to be made less affordable for the super rich.

I dunno. Many manufacturers do weird things like that. Largest part. We figure that's the pertinent bit, so based the sizing info on that (should all be in the product description). For balance, I've never tried the Shadow Conspiracy ones, they look good though.

Can confirm these work great!