AdamR28

I would guess a motor

At a guess... Meta might?

I don't really think anyone would be up for doing it with that design... there would be so much waste and re-clamping would be a nightmare (unless you changed the design a bit). I would probably say getting the main plate machined then bolt on some 90 degree brackets is a better way to go?

Happens instantly Had the same with a Control frame and FSA BB (also alloy cups) a few years back, screwed in dry by hand, picked up a bit of thread - game over. No worries, good luck!

Sounds like it cold welded in that case, bummer. I would just go over and over with the BB tap, the sandpaper won't really help.

Hmmm, looks very dry? All I can recommend here is spending a lot of time with the BB tap set, lots of cutting fluid, then a load of copper grease for fitting the BB and taking your time

Pics of inside of BB shell?

Yeah, went for £42

Just trying to save the guy some hassle and money... never mind...

That might be so, but I very much doubt they will work on this chap's setup... That chain is VERY stretchy so the wheel is a long way back in the dropouts. What is this distance? 30mm? 'Biggest' snail cams you can get are 27mm.

THE RETURN OF FJ!!

Snail cams are great - but - the hole on the T-Pro is too far forward to use them. With the Onza ones, try and make sure the back plate is as flat as possible. The slot in it should allow the bolt to sit in a straight line. If that fails, give some Gusset Kojak ones a try, they are all made of steel and the threaded bar is 8mm instead of 6mm, much stronger

In that case you will need V!Z or Onza if you don't want to have to do some bodging

Correct. The bearings are integrated. Try-All uses cartridges: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/bb_spares/tryall_bottom_bracket_bearing/c103p10371.html

What is the diameter of the inside of the head tube?

Had a check and the Echo ones are M5 x 0.8.

Looks good - my bars are about 10mm higher than that (same frame)

Internal = 44mm, 'standard' = 34mm. Looks Internal to me

I would guess around 13kg. Average would be 10-11kg I reckon. Anything under 9kg is VERY light* *All real weights, not T-F weights

Yes. Then the drive side, then both the bearings off. Take the BB out of the frame then it should become obvious If it doesn't become obvious, don't just bash at it, take it to someone who knows what they're doing

One batch of the T-Pro frames have an oversized BB shell (but only very slightly - not enough to notice). If you try and fit a 'normal' sized BB in then it strips the threads. Sounds to me like your LBS doesn't know about this and has made a bit of a mess of it... Your best bet is to get them to check the thread sizes on the two BBs, then if the old one is larger put the old BB back in and re-fit your old cranks. There should be enough thread left in the frame to do this. We're not open again until Tuesday now, but if you want some more help just give me a call. Good luck!

You will need some tools. Vice, mallet (NOT a hammer), pieces of wood/aluminium.

No, you need to leave the green spacer alone. It's the BLACK spacer with the Try-All sticker (the bit that you can't see until you take the BB out of the bike).

The same as the one you've still got in your bike Think it's M5 from memory, but your best bet is to take the other one down so they can simply match it.