AdamR28

Do stretching, ride a lot of rocks. Job done.

Yeah, the factory that makes the BBs makes them I believe.

Cool - the bearings are quite 'special' and I'm not sure you'll find replacements easily. Notchiness is pretty much normal for any BB used for trials, every time you land hard it'll put a tiny dent in the bearing race. If your frame isn't faced then this can increase the feel of notchiness too. The thing with the Trialtech is that there are twice as many balls as normal, so it will stand up to abuse more than other BBs (ask Ali C). If you want to get the drive side cup off, balance it over a vice (left hand side of the axle down) and smack the end of the axle with a mallet.

Firstly, which BB is it? Secondly, what makes you think they need replacing?

What stem? The full build? Needs a good height stem or they do feel terrible IMO. Thanks for comments all - will reply later!

This. If you have bent it, have a medal! Haha.

4-6 weeks if we're lucky...

Any gaps between the back of the crank arm and the face of the bashring?

7.46kg, 1010, +80, 350. First proper ride this weekend weather permitting!

Cool, another washer will sort you out then There is another adaptor available that is 1.5mm 'taller' (and therefore more 'correct'), but in reality it's not necessary when you can just add a couple of washers. We found the confusion caused by having different adaptors outweighed the 'problem' of adding the washers.

How much? Less than 1.5mm and it will still rub.

Maybe - if you can find a massive seat post.

Either: - Use a crown race setting tool (big tube that you can slide down over the steerer to hit the crown race on equally) - Use some grease - Cut through the crown race so it's split, will then go on easier (still works fine, in fact better than standard IMO)

Well, sort of - people just add the spacers automatically usually, as it's the easiest/obvious solution

Thanks, much easier. You just need to add 1.5mm of spacers between the caliper (or the washers) and the adaptor.

Or you can just add 1.5mm of spacers...

Is it rubbing on the outside edge of the rotor, or the side?

Yeah, as said, BB isn't bent Often the spline between the crank and bashring is VERY tight. If you have the tool (sounds like you do) take the crank off, then the lockring off (silver ring with 8 square 'holes' in it), remove the bashguard. Check for any signs of wear. When re-fitting, get the bashring fitted as far as you can by hand, then put everything chainring side down on a wooden bench. Give the end of the crank arm a good smack with a mallet, keep checking that it's going on straight. Then fit the lockring AFTER it's finished bottoming out.

Anodised, butted top and down tubes. They look pretty sweet, I've built a 20" up for myself and we'll have them on the site soon (massive order to unpack, loads of new stuff to get photos of).

No worries, just trying to get to the bottom of it! 0.5cm sounds very weird, any gaps between the crank arm and the front of the bashring? Is it *actually* 0.5cm? If there's any way to measure it more accurately that would be good, anything up to around 2mm is pretty normal, but more than that there will be something funny somewhere... A video might help actually.

How much is it wobbling by?

Been out of stock with Moore Large (UK distributor) for months, so I don't think they'll have any unfortunately. As far as I know they are none expected for a while, if ever again. Shame cos they were decent rims and sold well!

Yep - bleed exactly as a Magura, like so: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_brake_bleeding/m23.html