AdamR28

And a different number of pawls/engagement points

Hi George, From your email earlier (not sure if you got the reply given this topic has appeared): 'Hello, I can't get my wheelbuilder to co-operate with me, if I order a wheelbuild with "parts sent to us" and send you the front wheel with spokes on loosely, would you be able to build it up and if need be change the spoke length? Thank you!' 'Hi George, That would be no problem. Thanks, Adam' Cheers Adam

Sorry, not our fault Echo decided to stop making them...!

They stopped making them in silver, at a guess.

As far as we know at the moment, never.

Works every time for us - you just have to make sure the bolt is TIGHT - when you undo the freewheel the bolt will undo itself anyway Taking the lockring off gives you more contact too - sorry if that's obvious but wanted to point it out! Note: The tool pictured is different to the one you bought, I think the description states that.

Yes and yes.

Do stretching, ride a lot of rocks. Job done.

Yeah, the factory that makes the BBs makes them I believe.

Cool - the bearings are quite 'special' and I'm not sure you'll find replacements easily. Notchiness is pretty much normal for any BB used for trials, every time you land hard it'll put a tiny dent in the bearing race. If your frame isn't faced then this can increase the feel of notchiness too. The thing with the Trialtech is that there are twice as many balls as normal, so it will stand up to abuse more than other BBs (ask Ali C). If you want to get the drive side cup off, balance it over a vice (left hand side of the axle down) and smack the end of the axle with a mallet.

Firstly, which BB is it? Secondly, what makes you think they need replacing?

What stem? The full build? Needs a good height stem or they do feel terrible IMO. Thanks for comments all - will reply later!

This. If you have bent it, have a medal! Haha.

4-6 weeks if we're lucky...

Any gaps between the back of the crank arm and the face of the bashring?

7.46kg, 1010, +80, 350. First proper ride this weekend weather permitting!

Cool, another washer will sort you out then There is another adaptor available that is 1.5mm 'taller' (and therefore more 'correct'), but in reality it's not necessary when you can just add a couple of washers. We found the confusion caused by having different adaptors outweighed the 'problem' of adding the washers.

How much? Less than 1.5mm and it will still rub.

Maybe - if you can find a massive seat post.

Either: - Use a crown race setting tool (big tube that you can slide down over the steerer to hit the crown race on equally) - Use some grease - Cut through the crown race so it's split, will then go on easier (still works fine, in fact better than standard IMO)

Well, sort of - people just add the spacers automatically usually, as it's the easiest/obvious solution

Thanks, much easier. You just need to add 1.5mm of spacers between the caliper (or the washers) and the adaptor.

Or you can just add 1.5mm of spacers...

Is it rubbing on the outside edge of the rotor, or the side?

Yeah, as said, BB isn't bent Often the spline between the crank and bashring is VERY tight. If you have the tool (sounds like you do) take the crank off, then the lockring off (silver ring with 8 square 'holes' in it), remove the bashguard. Check for any signs of wear. When re-fitting, get the bashring fitted as far as you can by hand, then put everything chainring side down on a wooden bench. Give the end of the crank arm a good smack with a mallet, keep checking that it's going on straight. Then fit the lockring AFTER it's finished bottoming out.