AdamR28

Get in touch with Anal (Teflon), he's the man.

From that pic, the clearance actually looks 'good' for such a tiny frame. Providing when you put the power down the chain isn't running against the tube, you can remove the zip ties. If it is, then the zip ties will be removed soon anyway

Oops, my bad, sorry, thought it looked like an ENO :$ You only need 3-4mm more clearance, so the spacer and sprocket should do the trick

That would be fine, I've done that in the past, as long as there's at least ~4mm of axle in the dropout it'll be ok. Didn't read the thread in full detail, but you can afford a slim spacer between the crank and FW too, nothing too wide as the threads are a bit oversized on the ENO, but 2-3mm will help pinch you a bit of space About the original issue - unfortunately user error The Try-All hub you have in there is VERY wide.

Yeah, they are pretty hardy - a lot of dogs have their tails clipped as 'standard' (), providing the bleeding stops and it's kept clean should be fine

Only real way would be to strip the hub down and stick it in a lathe.

That looks so dodgy... haha (using that sort of machinery on a public road, I mean).

Good stuff

Cool - well the threshold is sometimes 125cm, so exact dimensions would be useful... Try interparcel and world options.

I would say chain wrap, but you could try flipping the rear sprocket over to check it's not tooth wear (if there is enough space for the chain to fit).

What's the box size? Many couriers have a length that, if you go over it, it's classed as 'freight' rather than a standard parcel, and thus loads more expensive...

Pics of setup?

Should be pretty good. Issue number (if you have one) is on the front, where it says 'Issue Number' (sorry, no other way to explain it!). If you don't have one it can be left blank. Security code is the last 3 numbers on the back where you sign.

Not really sure, they seem too soft for XC use. What setup to go on?

No. Tried a sample set on a bike with smooth rims though, felt pretty good, very good for the cash.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_freewheel_and_sprocket_removal/m1.html

Best way is to treat it as 2 separate bleeds - bleed one side first (although you only have to bleed ~20cm of hose, rather than the whole brake), cap it off. Open the other side, bleed that.

Any bolt/nut will do the job there - bit of a pig to get it back in though, spring is pretty high tension so a second pair of hands may be useful

Cool - just speaking from personal experience there, but if you have been able to do it in the past then defo worth a shot before resorting to spark eroding it or scrapping the frame.

Built one of those frames with the same bar and stem, with 20mm spacers, and it felt goooood

The tap will not come out by drilling, or by cutting a slot in it. There's been a LOT of torque applied to it in order to snap it, and it's too hard for pretty much any drill bit.

'Expressing yourself' sounds like artfag bullshit to me. I ride cos it's fun and I need an adrenaline fix to keep me going!

Google local engineers, find someone who does spark erosion Depending on the frame, may be cheaper just to buy a new one unfortunately

Still sat on my desk... Alu is 6082-T6.

I see your 5kg bike and raise (lower?) you by a couple of kilos http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/09/29/6lb-road-bike-worlds-new-lightest-bicycle-from-fairwheel-bikes/ http://www.tririg.com/articles.php?id=1035_Worlds_Lightest_Bike Must ride like shit though!