AdamR28

Bit of aluminium, file, drill, job done. You don't actually need one though to be fair.

Not really sure where to put this... seems about most appropriate here? Anyway, on the back of this topic, a plan has been hatched... Everything you need to know is here: http://www.justgiving.com/tartybikes-movember Feel free to join in if you wish

Exactly.

... But the best way, IMO, is to make the axle smaller. This way you aren't mullering your £120 forks, only a £10 axle. We can do it if you wish: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/workshop/tartybikes_front_hub_modification_10mm_to_9mm_axle/c34p11665.html

Used the pads enough to give feedback now - definitely better performance than the standard ones. The increase in bite and hold seems to be almost equivalent to going up from a 160 to 180 rotor. Gonna stick a set on my other bike now, very impressed (and surprised!).

Well it could be that your phone camera has crap white balance, and they are Koxx Greens, but from that photo they aren't the right colour.

Wrong shape.

Wrong shape, wrong colour.

Fake, CRMs have always been yellow.

They kinda look a bit like Koxx (shape of the moulding), but the green is too bright... Hard to say without the bite test

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/hub_spares/hope_pro_2_trials_freehub_body_upgrade_kit/c22p11219.html There must be something else up - bent axle, not using correct spacers?

Lots of grease, on both the frame and the BB cup.

Exactly why - combined with your idea having more 'functions' - that it's not a bad idea at all. Edit: But yes, wouldn't buy one personally.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_welding Learned about this the hard way, doing exactly the same as you. Ended up bolting the tool into the BB, putting that in a vice, and having two people swinging on the frame to get the BB out. Soak it in release agent, bit of heat (small blowtorch), then try again, if you're lucky it'll scrap the BB but the frame will be ok... I wasn't so lucky!

Makes no difference on forks.

Kelli Salone?

Email sent

Nice work man More users adding more spots = site gets better and better, so get stuck in people!

Get in touch with Anal (Teflon), he's the man.

From that pic, the clearance actually looks 'good' for such a tiny frame. Providing when you put the power down the chain isn't running against the tube, you can remove the zip ties. If it is, then the zip ties will be removed soon anyway

Oops, my bad, sorry, thought it looked like an ENO :$ You only need 3-4mm more clearance, so the spacer and sprocket should do the trick

That would be fine, I've done that in the past, as long as there's at least ~4mm of axle in the dropout it'll be ok. Didn't read the thread in full detail, but you can afford a slim spacer between the crank and FW too, nothing too wide as the threads are a bit oversized on the ENO, but 2-3mm will help pinch you a bit of space About the original issue - unfortunately user error The Try-All hub you have in there is VERY wide.

Yeah, they are pretty hardy - a lot of dogs have their tails clipped as 'standard' (), providing the bleeding stops and it's kept clean should be fine

Only real way would be to strip the hub down and stick it in a lathe.

That looks so dodgy... haha (using that sort of machinery on a public road, I mean).