AdamR28

Ah, cast, duh, silly me. Perhaps grinding back to a V shape then filling with silicon bronze?

Haha, wow.

Same thoughts as above. Cleanliness is paramount to get silver solder to flow. I'd be tempted to clean up the 'flat' / raised portion of the dropout, TIG weld it with very minimal filler, and drill a small hole at the end of the crack. You can also get this funky heat putty stuff that would stop the heat going too far.

Might get some zimmer frames in, they should have decent availability at the moment, but that's about it.

For imports, add 25% and around £20, thats a good guide.

^^ Agreed. This is our preferred way to set them up, and how we used to do it, until a bunch of customers sent feedback that their chain was 'too short'. So we added a link, figuring it was easier to take one out than add one in. I would always run my own bike with the chain as short as possible, and I'd never use a quick link, but in these circumstances you have to think about the end user and cater for those with less experience (can use it as it comes, no tools required), but allow for tinkering for the more seasoned rider (take the quick link out and join the chain with a tool).

My experience is that if its been on for that long, its overpriced. The market is so easy to access now, people searching can literally find out all the new properties in a few seconds, it doesn't take long for 'word to get out'. Stuff priced well goes within a month, stuff underpriced goes within days. PB overvalued one of mine when selling too, by about 10%.

Another beauty!

No prob. It will stay like that.

Normal. Its because the springs are so stiff to ensure accurate engagement.

Ha. A novel idea... But yeah, as Mark says, buy what you need from wherever you can at the mo, people riding bikes is the overall goal The crank grinding tip is a good one too, forgot about that.

That would be three 2.5s. And it sounds like rather a lot, running a bit close on thread contact (BB vs frame) IMO. Better to have the cranks close than rip the BB out of the frame. With the straight chainstays on that frame, and a crankset it wasn't ever designed around, it's always gonna be close... As long as it doesn't hit under load, happy days.

54% more power in the favour of the Trial caliper.

Man maths answer... About £200. I made the BB shell and dropouts on the lathe / milling machine from tube / solid bar, bought the rest of the tubing. Its really nice quality stuff, about the sort of 'level' a custom builder would use in a ~£1000 frame. Real answer: you need to add consumables (gas, the expensive filler rod - for both the actual frame and all the test joints I did - silver solder for the braze ons), any tools I bought specifically for the project (at least a set of quality holesaws). There's also the tooling used (welder et al, milling machine, lathe) which technically I already had, but would never have got a decent result without them. Lets just say I used to think custom frames were too expensive before I made a couple!

I tried for about a minute, decided it was shit, and turned off.

Nope, such is bike industry supply right now... Its not a special item, pop down your LBS and see what they have.

Not without some angle grinder action.

Both will look good. Silver need cleaning more often

You'd have to measure the steerer.

Interesting idea! I think it would improve grind life but not proportional to the cost. Anodising still wears off rims pretty quickly - and that's with full surface area.

Hmmm. I think they experimented with it. I can't recall with much certainty. I do remember Craig (writer of original link in the thread) playing around with it though - shame it didn't work out!

Nah, get some with a more normal offset, it will ride better. Internal 44mm head tube on the Genesis.

A lot. 45-50 IIRC.

I'm sure its nothing to worry about, just means they can bend you over to the tune of a few hundred quid extra, Dan. The Australian system is way better I reckon. It's like selling a car - its up to the seller to provide all the 'service history'. You go to view the house with all the searches done, paperwork in place, etc. I would say that gives you a much better basis for figuring out what the house is worth (see Rowan's story above), places more emphasis on the seller to get things moving as they've put a load of work in, which in turn means less chance of them backing out down the line!

As far as we have worked out, all the M8 thread Shimano and Magura stuff (hose, olives, shrouds, inserts) are cross compatible. Easy peasy!