AdamR28

5mm chainline offset is perfectly fine. What chain do you have?

That should work, but get the sprocket off if you can, at the moment it'll be compressing the hub shell and bit and making the bearing tighter: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_freewheel_and_sprocket_removal/m1.html

It doesn't create more air, but the pressure releases the air from the water. So, your brake feels fine to start, then after a ride the air has come out of the water and risen up to the lever, so it feels like your brake has leaked.

Try pulling on the syringe as I said, that's the easiest way to explain it Video - I don't really see how it can't be understood from the text, but it will go on the list (which may take a few more years until we start to think about making more videos unfortunately, everyday stuff gets in the way).

From the water, its how fish breathe Proper brake fluids don't do this as much. No worries Dan. Just haven't mentioned it before.

Certainly is. My PAS was leaky and didn't want to have to buy a new belt, so ripped the lot out. 27kg!! Get it done

Haha, I like it Makes it seem a better decision that way.

Not what your advert said And so the modding begins?

Mine is soft top and air con (well, was, ripped the air con out the other night, don't think it's worked for years).

Plug an open syringe into the lever with a bleed hose, half-fill the syringe with water, move the lever so the air can escape, pull the lever a few times, air will come out. Won't be a leak, no. If you want to see why, half-fill a syringe with water, put your finger over the end of the syringe and pull the plunger upwards. See all that air? That's what's in your brake! It only becomes apparent once you have used the brake, which is why it feels fine immediately after bleeding, but weird after you've ridden it for a bit.

Top the lever up rather than re-bleeding, that will do the trick.

Not sure on prices over there, but over here about £2000 maximum is about right depending on a lot of things. How much would it cost to buy one from here and drive it over? We have quite a lot of 'Eunos' models in the UK, come from Japan, as they have higher power, LSD, air con, and mostly in better condition because they don't use salt on the roads over there

What's it bled with?

There are two types of slave cylinder, some have M8 holes, so some people need an M8/M6 crossover, and others need an M6/M6 crossover - hence the two options. I can't work out what you are confused about either, haha, you've answered your own question

Lol. Have fun Dave!

Hmm. Yeah something odd there then. I'm sure you can get to the bottom of it Ah yes, I forgot about the diff!

They could be related. Did you say the power steering was removed? If you have a lot of positive caster, that will make the steering heavy, even at speed. A smidge of toe out should help, too Car looks quality, of course! What sort of weight and power do you reckon? ~1100kg and ~300bhp?

Absolutely! But it's not the best car ever, and you won't keep it standard (I am aware that you probably will now, just cos of that comment, which was the point of making it )

But would that Beemer be awesome if someone else bought it? I doubt it! That's the point people are making - it's annoying how your car is the best car EVER, every time you get a new car, until you change it in a few weeks, then THAT is the best car ever It's just getting a bit dull now

Yeah, the sideways thing is definitely a good bonus! 5 year old £19-when-new tyres on the back are where it's at There is no way you will keep it standard No really, it will feel painfully slow compared with your A3 and Clio...! Doesn't mean it can't be fun though, a well balanced car driven on the limit (whether that is 20mph or 120mph) will always put a smile on your face

Won't that BM be really slow? (I know bugger all about BMs) Edit: Over 10s to 60? Didn't think you'd ever have a car like that Jardo! Still, a LOT of car for the cash

Sounds familiar! I don't even try and bunnyhop long bikes any more

Nothing 'wrong' with it, but forged is cheaper, lighter and stronger.

Whichever is lower, Trialtech in this case? Will struggle for bunnyhops though.

High bars = bike rides good. Low bars = bike is a pogo stick Being serious - lower bars = bike is more vertical on the rear wheel = feels easier on the rear wheel. Higher bars = better for riding it like an actual bike. There is no 'perfect' stem, it's always a trade off.