AdamR28

About the same makes a huge difference though, even 0.5mm change in the distance from pivot to push rod makes about 6-7% difference in braking power (which is the sort of increase in power we are taking about here). It's not the length of the lever blade, it's the leverage RATIO of the lever blade: Lever blade 1: Blade length is 100mm Distance from pivot to push rod 10mm Leverage ratio 10:1 Lever blade 2: Blade length is 100mm Distance from pivot to push rod 8mm Leverage ratio 12.5:1 Lever blade 2 has 20% more power than blade 1, even though they are both the same length.

You stick it to itself.

Hmm. I don't do that, and I can't work out how it would make a difference (other than a huge crash if you release too early! haha). Got any vids of you doing it that way?

Front brake on, rear brake off. Get balanced, bars straight. Load up the forks and front tyre by shifting your weight down. You will feel the forks / tyre spring back. Time your jump with the return spring, and you'll get a big 'boost' from the bike. Keep your weight forward, even though natural temptation is to shift it back...

Lot of car for the cash that!

Bummer. Funny how cars seem to do that, spit their dummies every now and then

Yup yup! Alex - car looks really sweet, look forward to vids! Toby - I love those Civics, and yours looks properly nice. Really subtle, but purposeful. My contribution = Tuesday at Oulton:

The principle is still the same though - and that is what people seem to not get. That will void you warranty, too.

Busting out the X-Ray Camera

I am guessing high comp pistons give higher compression Which I don't think you'll want with a remapped, everything else standard, turbo engine... If you are just getting a remap, don't bother changing any of the 'physical' parts of the engine - unless you plan on trying to squeeze loads and loads of power out of it in the future.

Getting a lot of questions about this and don't have time at the mo to do a video (it will probably be at least 8-10 hours work), so thought this may help: Lever top up (which is what will do the job 95% of the time, since air naturally rises to the lever): Move the lever so your lever blade is facing the sky, and ideally orientate the bike so the highest point of the piston is the bleed port (see pic). Take plastic / rubber caps off the lever body and hose. Remove little plastic bung from the lever - it has a 2.5mm allen key fitting for ease of removal but it is NOT threaded. Unscrew barbed fitting from lever body (8mm spanner) while looking down the hole you just opened - you will see a black O ring move past the hole. At this point there should be 2 threads on the barbed fitting showing. Plug an empty syringe into the hole, should be the right size to push in perfectly. Fill syringe about half way with your fluid of choice. Pull the lever back to the bars slowly, if there is air in the system you will see bubbles coming up through the fluid in the syringe. Let the lever return slowly, this will replace any air with fluid. Repeat the above two steps a few times, tapping the lever body in between to release any trapped air. Remove syringe from lever body (put something over the end to create a vacuum or you will pour fluid everywhere!). Screw barbed fitting back into the lever body, use some tissue / a rag to catch any overspill from the bleed port. The barbed fitting does NOT need to be tight as on previous versions of the brake! The O Ring you saw moving past the hole in a previous step is what does the sealing, NOT the face of the barbed fitting mating with the lever body. If you overtighten it, you will crack the lever body. Push the little plug back in, by hand is fine, it doesn't provide any function other than stopping crud getting into the bleed port. Test the brake by pulling the lever slowly - the pads should move pretty much as soon as you start pulling the lever. If they don't, read over the instructions below as you may need to do a full bleed instead. Clip all the plastic bits back on and you're done. Full bleed: Unscrew the blanking plug from the slave cylinder. 2/3rds fill a syringe / bleed pipe and screw it into the hole you just opened. Move the lever so your lever blade is facing the sky, and ideally orientate the bike so the highest point of the piston is the bleed port (see pic). Take plastic / rubber caps off the lever body and hose. Remove little plastic bung from the lever - it has a 2.5mm allen key fitting for ease of removal but it is NOT threaded. Unscrew barbed fitting from lever body (8mm spanner) while looking down the hole you just opened - you will see a black O ring move past the hole. At this point there should be 2 threads on the barbed fitting showing. Plug an empty and open (no plunger) syringe into the hole, should be the right size to push in perfectly. Push the bottom syringe plunger slowly, if there is air in the system you will see bubbles coming up into the top (open) syringe. The top syringe will fill up. Optional step: Pull the bottom syringe plunger back, sucking fluid back through the system (but not so far that the top syringe runs out), then repeat the above step while tapping the brake calipers and lever body. With the top syringe just over half full, and the bottom one nearly empty, pull the lever back to the bars slowly. If there is air left in the system you will see bubbles coming up through the open top syringe. Let the lever return slowly, this will replace any air with fluid. Repeat the above two steps a few times, tapping the lever body in between to release any trapped air. Remove syringe from lever body (put something over the end to create a vacuum or you will pour fluid everywhere!). Screw barbed fitting back into the lever body, use some tissue / a rag to catch any overspill from the bleed port. The barbed fitting does NOT need to be tight as on previous versions of the brake! The O Ring you saw moving past the hole in a previous step is what does the sealing, NOT the face of the barbed fitting mating with the lever body. If you overtighten it, you will crack the lever body. Push the little plug back in, by hand is fine, it doesn't provide any function other than stopping crud getting into the bleed port. Remove bottom syringe/pipe from the slave cylinder (you won't lose fluid / let air in since the system will provide a vacuum) and screw the blanking plug back in. Test the brake by pulling the lever slowly - the pads should move pretty much as soon as you start pulling the lever. If they don't, read over the instructions again as you may have done something incorrectly. Clip all the plastic bits back onto the lever and you're done. As you can see, it's just as easy as the previous brakes (you could argue it's even easier). Hope that helps!

LOL. I'll bring it up in a few pages time

Yep, that is definitely not a 'big brand' wheel, look at the horrible finish! (I've got a real Mono and a fake Mono - the real one is lovely and smooth, the fake one is just like that.)

I think that was some sort of air lock, but I found the water pump was tapping against the block, and looked to be the original from 22 years ago, so decided to change it The cambelt was the bit that was wrong, at TDC the intake cam tries to rotate itself clockwise, so when you tension the belt the top bit between the cams is all floppy. You have to rotate the crank 1 5/6th turns to find a point where both cams are 'neutral' THEN tension the belt. Random shit nobody cares about, but you never know if it might come in handy eh! Gonna need to borrow a timing light in the morning to get the advancement right again, but the car runs so much smoother now even without that, £120 well spent! Gotta love old cars for cheap spares

I guess it's about g forces. They are what damage you, and if you can decrease them with some cheap padding (both with or without a helmet), you might as well in my opinion! Track day tomorrow with Mr Stan Shaw and John the Mong, up early but looking forward to it. Car runs much better now with fresh oil, coolant, water pump and (correctly fitted, unlike the one that came off) cambelt

Poorly, at least a few months.

Yep. You could just set your brake up well, then it would feel better haha

Yeah, our total replacement Magura TPA Kits and metal TPA Wheel sales of just over 1400 (in the last 4 years) seem to confirm that...

I don't understand how lol. But yeah, we'll see what we can do.

It's not, it's very very easy. I would be possible to argue it's easier than the older style brakes, in fact. We'll try and do a video if / when we get time... Pistons are the same, leverage ratio of the lever blade is not.

No, a higher leverage ratio. They are pretty much the same.

The new lever blades have a higher leverage ratio. That is why the brakes feel more flexy, because they have more power. If you want a brake that feels like last years 4-finger blade, get the shorter blade. If you want even more power, get the longer blade, but remember it won't feel as solid. We have set a few up here, always felt absolutely fine. Magura don't have much stock of 2005 stuff at all.

Just keep adding warn until it turns to a ban

Haha, that's fair enough Was looking at TSL Timing the other night, I think the gearbox karts do something daft like 1:49s

Sounds like you have put a lot of time/work into it then! 140mph is nuts... Any ideas what sort of lap times you are at?