AdamR28

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=spoke+tensioner&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=XTO&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&q=+site:trials-forum.co.uk+spoke+tensioner+trials&sa=X&ei=iAQAUd63C6LV0QW_vIDoDA&ved=0CDkQrQIwAA&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41248874,d.d2k&fp=b987864691354c7e&biw=1280&bih=895

Perfectly - we wouldn't have ordered a stock in if they leaked, it would just be setting ourselves up for loads of warranty hassle.

Got a really good contact for this recently, they do the anodising for Renthal, and are based around Manchester. Can I remember who it is? No Bugger.

Ah no, it's cool, just mentioned it in case someone went and bought some K hangers and they didn't fit! Erm, I try, but brain is getting full

It's a Kona style hanger actually, but its really popular too (and stronger than a K hanger)

Yep, we have warrantied a few. They would have gone to Cyclemart, as you got the bike from them? Therefore nothing to do with us as you have been keen to point out in the past.

The amount of tension you can create with the tensioner is nowhere near that when you stomp on the pedals - therefore it doesn't matter IMO, assuming your cranks aren't a complete mess in terms of change in tension (cue dave33 disagreeing with me).

I go for the slacker part personally - the amount of tension you can create with the tensioner is nowhere near that when you stomp on the pedals.

You got it.

Blue if you need to, but usually nipping the grub screw against the axle AFTER you have tightened the axle bolt does the trick though. The standard grub screw are cup point which do dig into the axle a bit, this is another reason for the chain seemingly becoming slack. Keep riding, keep adjusting, and it will settle down.

No And F5ing won't work

No, because the bending force is resisted by the plate right next to it, so it becomes a shearing force. Edit: Oh I think I see what you mean now... but how often do you see a pin snapped in half? It's a consideration in theory, but not in practice. In fact, in theory, surely the longer pins would be weaker, as the length of the lever is longer (the force being applied in the centre of the pin by the sprocket)?

Looks to be using his calves to help here? (At 1:08) Anyway this is off topic, so I'll shut up

I have called him out (jokingly) for this a few times It actually gives less mechanical leverage from your calves (which are nearly as important for 'jumping' as your quads) due to the decreased lever arm, plus I'm wondering now it if contributes to the knee problems (patella tendonitis) Stan has, due to putting more % of the overall load on his knees...

That is purely coincidence. The Tank chain is so huge you can join it either way and it doesn't matter - I would go with the split link as few chain tools can cope with it.

Me too, reminds me of Mario Kart. Nah, it's real weight, not forum weight

It's a fantasy world from computer games.

Unfortunately not. And about 60g.

Nah, it's set up like this:

Indeed - the same side plates (and thus same strength in tension), just different length rollers and pins. However, if you are a spaz at joining chains, the pins stick through the links on the 510 a bit more I think, so that could be beneficial...

Looks like it has been built 'from the ground up' Dave - the chain is outside the seat / chainstay and the disc is between the hub and seat / chainstay, for example. Still, I dunno if it'll work long term...

Would have needed new tooling to work, Middleburn didn't have any interest in making any more.

Yeah, they are excellent on the road in wet weather, but I think Prawn is on about track tyres, and Alex tyres for his rallying type events?