AdamR28

Looks sweet that! Dunno if it's the pics but the wheels look a bit 'blue' for my tastes.

It would, but not possible unfortunately - the Echo one from back then was 6 pawls too.

Sorry, I'm talking about the old Echo freewheels, the ones that were effectively copies of the ENO (this is like... 5 years ago or more). The new Echo freewheels aren't compatible with any ENO parts.

Random off topic... If anyone with Sky wants to watch me racing on TV this Saturday, tune into Motors TV at 1:30 and 4:20pm http://www.motorstv.com/tv-guide-uk?d=2013-04-06&h=3

It's making the pawl seats and the associated part of the pawl nice and shiny so they run smoothly, and also the tips where they rub against the ratchet. The pawls all being in time is pretty rare, you can tinker with them with a grinder to get them in time if you wish (take the blue seal out of the 'back' of the freewheel and you can see the pawls, then mark them up, reduce their length by a tiny amount, re-fit, and try again, repeat. I did similar with half an Echo and half an ENO a few years back to give 108 EPs, takes a bit of time / effort though!

We can get it, but choose not to stock it because availability and consistency of stock is very sketchy - in fact it's likely half the stuff you see on the site is no longer available (Or only left in XL and XS, or only one colour, etc) If you want us to check though, just fire an email with exact (size, colour, style, etc) details of what you're after and we'll check for you.

Yeah, that will help. The 'engaging' action is what beds the pawls in, if that make sense.

It'll be grease from the bearing as Mark said on facebook, get that cleaned out and let it bed in some more, should do the trick. You need to get the ends of the pawls and their seats nice and shiny, so some really thin oil will help too. The ENOs are nice but they do require pretty regular maintenance (which is why we tend to recommend the Echo SL, I know you just broke one though).

I do

Yeah, but it's non solvent based as far as I know, which is the difference. Did you use it? Mine didn't 'repel' anywhere strangely, went on really evenly! It's definitely not 7.5t, you need another test for that. Haha, that's what I thought Check the carrying capacity of the vans too - for example the huge Crafter is 2.2t by itself so you can only carry 1.3...

Hmm. I think that's right, the hatching is to retain some grease? Just sounds like the centre sleeve is too short...

As above - biggest thing I know of with a 3.5t gross is an XLWB extra high roof VW Crafter or Mercedes Sprinter. They are huge, probably big enough to move house in one load

Yeah I managed to get some on my head, took a week to come off. Get the 'starter pack' with the other two jobbers in it (marine clean and something prep, I think), and if you need more paint get the tiny pots - once opened they go off pretty quick and the lids have a habit of sticking themselves down (even if you use plastic as a 'seal' like they recommend). It's tough stuff though - I painted a coat on my trailer straight onto some rust, no preparation or anything (other than a quick wire brush), then attacked it with a screwdriver and it stayed put!

Aluminium.

Some prototype ones. Stan should have had a pair too but he cut the steerer too short

Cheers Ross. Still on my 20" Fans! No video, sorry.

Cheers man! Here's one of me. First move of the day. Fail.

Hello all, Here's a few pics from yesterday's ride... Not had the camera out for a couple of years! Slinger large tap from uphill run up: Another tap with horrible run up Large gap to front Matt forward sidehop thingy over snow Fail Sidehop to rear Gap up to front from rock in bottom left Sidehop from rock in bottom left of pic Sidehop to horrible green rock Tap Stan drop off Stan setting up for a gap Muddy run up Tap Cheers, Ads

It's not the same one as those cranks though, and the Onza ones aren't on the b2b.

Think first, then re-build! The spokes that are too short, you need to move them closer to the rim (and the ones that are too long, you need to move them away from the rim) - that will tell you which way round they need shifting

I bet we see a post from you later today saying it was a shed and your Audi is still the best car made ever

They require some sort of threaded insert (well, outsert, I guess ), like some of the current Onza cranks. I would ask the seller if he has them, because I think you might struggle now with those cranks being close to 10 years old.

So basically it's faster than yours? it must have a higher bhp/ton or shorter gearing though.

Exactly as Alan says. The reason we sent 2x/3x mix is that it's a very odd length spoke for 3x on the non disc side (270 or 272 from memory) which is hard to find. The exact solution depends on how exactly you lace the wheel, but it's not difficult to sort if you look at the wheel it will be obvious which way the non drive spokes need to be moved.

Not sure about Leons, but it is that way for the other cars I've worked on.