AdamR28

Which geometry and colour?

What's the car used for, just a daily driver? If so, the Uniroyals do come with good reviews (although never used them myself). I think pretty much anything with decent reviews, as long as they are all the same tyre, will do a good job

The moon is not made of cheese. Just stating a fact as that's what this thread seems to have turned into now

Can't tell from one picture on the internet - but I would guess some heavier cranks would still be in one piece...

You could have slated us because a shop you bought a wonky stem from didn't contact us about it? I don't understand, but I don't think I ever will We didn't have any straight ones at that time, and we still don't. Can't magic one out of thin air unfortunately. And Cyclemart still haven't contacted us about it.

They would have done if they contacted us (By that I mean, I checked, and they didn't.) And I didn't say that we originally found the issue. I won't bother contributing to the forum in future then...

^^ Yep.

This is true - and those Echo cranks would last me for years. It's about the customer buying the correct product for their needs.

Because very few customers would buy the stuff cos it 'too heavy'.

I see what you mean. Problem is, there are already a lot of situations that are filled with disclaimers like that - nobody reads them, and guess who is the 'bad guy'...I genuinely think they are simply too many variables.

No worries - I feel I should add a bit more to what I said... You *could* narrow it down a bit, but then as soon as something lasts more or less time that was stated, the person who made that 'claim' would instantly be labelled wrong or lying, etc. Which isn't ideal! There's already too much finger-pointing and not enough taking responsibility for your own actions / decisions in the world

Haha. So 80% of trials riders?

Agreed! 2) Yes and no - because of my 5). One person's definition of basher is totally different to someone else's too. There are just too many variables. The lifespan of Try-All cranks and Reset BB would have to be stated as 'from 1 ride to 4 years', as 1 ride is how quickly someone could theoretically kill them from a botched dropgap, and 4 years (or more) is how long mine have been on my bike. You'd need this sort of wide range n every product as well, so it wouldn't really help at all.

You still need to keep the pedals tight as if the cranks were new (very frequently), because it's a brand new thread...

Yeah, as Mark said, pretty much the whole batch was made wrong. It's really easy to spot. Try-All didn't know about it until we told them (and returned our stock), so there will be a lot of stems floating around that are on the piss...

Bit late here, but... 1) Pedal threads don't 'just strip'. The pedal is ALWAYS loose when this happens (or it's already damaged - from the pedals having been ridden loose). 2) There are plenty of strong parts around, just everyone wants to try and make their bike lighter. We tend to find that a lot of customers buy parts that are too light for their needs (even after advice), then moan when they break. 3) Don't want to worry about your cranks breaking? Don't buy really light cranks with holes in! 4) If you still want to buy some really light stuff, buy parts that have had lots of testing, rather than 'never-been-seen-before-then-suddenly-on-sale' items. This will also give a message to trials companies that customers won't put up with substandard stuff and a lack of R&D. 5) It would be impossible to put an 'average life' on products, there are just too many variables.

Quite obviously Looks like a good solid setup, none of this posh caliper stuff!

We have some spares, give us a call Tuesday

The difference for a King Classic is just under 3mm left and right, we do spokes in even lengths (nobody cuts spokes any more, at least I hope they don't!), so you'll have something like 262 and 264, for example. For all dished wheels, ignore where the spoke sits in relation to the top of the nipple (within reason) and add more tension to one side to pull the wheel across. One side will always be a lot tighter than the other on a dished wheel, it has to be - triangulation. The rim should be in the centre of the axle, not the hub shell, I think that's where you're going wrong.

They look pimp Brakes didn't seem to have any issues at Donington Nick!? Or did you just get an itchy credit card? In related news, currently undertaking a dry sump installation. Had about 10 deliveries from various suppliers so far, one's taken over 3 weeks and still isn't here, and 4 of them have had the wrong stuff, bloody frustrating!! Should have been finished by now!!

Either need: - Centred sprocket OR - Flip the sprocket over and a 3/32" chain Best solution: - Centred sprocket AND 3/32" chain

Rag it through a muddy field.

Dammit, a sensible, scientific answer

At least it makes sense I guess (the Rock bit)... The new 20" frame is called the Flint, too.

Momentum? A bit like a 3 cylinder car engine. (That is a complete guess by the way, using logic, nothing knowledge-based )