AdamR28

Prefer the standard myself, with the thins you can feel the bars if you grip hard. But they are a good shout if you have small hands. Best used without gloves too.

Yes, still comfy and last ages.

You are going from Try-All to Echo? Too long.

Unfortunately not.

That's the issue unfortunately - once contaminated, always contaminated. New pads and rotor is the only 100% fix.

I've got one that's rated to 440Nm (this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-CP2400-Powerful-Cordless-Impact-Wrench-24V-1-2-Sq-Drive-325lb-ft-441nm-/170722094440?ssPageName=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AGB%3A1123&nma=true&si=QDgwFSZkvZJg2mTQ0n07sOLF95g%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557) - it will do wheel nuts at ~100Nm but nothing more. I don't know how they can get away with it, but no way it will remove 450Nm-tight bolts unfortunately It does save a LOT of time changing wheels though, and good for stuck bolts where access is decent. Be perfect for clutch / flywheel change too. Overall, well worth having

No worries! There's three ways to do it - use the existing oil pump and just a two-stage external pump (both of these stages 'scavenging' oil from the sump), use the existing oil pump and remove the internals (and use a 3-stage pump, 2 scav and one pressure), or fit a blanking plate over where the oil pump used to be (and use the 3-stage pump), like this: http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Dry_Sump_Systems/Dry_Sump_20L/Dry_Sump_20_norm.gif - it's the item on the right, with the red bung on it. Yeah, the SBD kit is pretty expensive, but it's the going rate for that engine - and well worth it when you're using the car hard. Obviously the oil is going along the crankshaft to feed the bearings, in a Calibra (where the engine comes form originally) the engine is mounted sideways so it can get oil down the crank no problem, but in a kit car the engine is longitudinal - meaning under hard braking oil struggles to get to the rear of the block, plus you may get some starvation as the pickup can suck fresh air = dead bearings.

Yes its safe and the spacer is the right way round.

Yeah, the bolt is essential, or it WILL slip! http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_freewheel_and_sprocket_removal/m1.html

Sweet. Haha, yeah they are quick when you are used to 'normal' cars, I think it's the wind buffeting, lowness to the ground and the noise that makes them feel faster too. It's a Vauxhall C20XE (known as 'Red Top'). Basically the oil is held in a separate tank, rather than the sump (hence 'dry sump') and you have an external oil pump which both sucks oil out of the bottom of the sump and feeds it into the engine. The main advantage is that your oil is now held in a tall, thin container rather than a shallow, flat one - meaning no starvation as the 'pickup' is always immersed. This is a pretty good diagram, which will explain better than I can with words! (Ignore the 3rd green line as that seems to go to nowhere, lol)

You can just use a normal 4 prong tool.

Went for a drive tonight, forgot how good that car is... Good enough to scare my mate who owns a 400bhp 300zx anyway. That's a lot of power from a Pinto! Got any pics of the car?

PR5 6BY

Got a few spare bits here if you want dude.

f**k going that fast with only one practice run Fair play!

That fast section looked awesome! Do you get any / many practice runs?

Engine is running about 125bhp/litre (n/a), is mounted 90 degrees to how it was designed, and the car pulls 1.5g in the bends and under braking, its a good insurance policy!

Not my sort of thing, but can appreciate it. Sweet colour though! Z20LET is it? Finished fitting my dry sump setup today, all works and no leaks = chuffed

A job for the weekend...

TNN stronger (they are just old Koxx Forks), Rockman lighter - but you won't break either.

How kind. I just found a spare top cap - fire us an email if you want it and I'll put it on the site.

Thanks - please feel free to send it back if you think it's wonky and we'll check it out. Obviously if it is, we'll replace it with one that isn't, or if we don't have one we'll credit you for it.

I see - I missed the point of your post there, sorry! The pics they posted don't prove anything, without units and loading conditions

Yeah that could be done, I have done it in the past for cranks. The software assumes a lot though, and f**k modelling all the parts on our site, haha. No units and no loading conditions = doesn't tell us much unfortunately.

You need to tell Dave to get them into production