AdamR28

It's like 10 years ago but with more style, better video quality and less rear mechs - winner.

If you pull the adjuster out a touch, you can get a 5mm allen key into the hole that appears. Failing that, needle nose pliers on it.

I will assume Lite ISIS Yes: - Disassemble the BB. - Prise the seals out of the bearings carefully with a fresh Stanley blade. - Rotate the bearing so the little indent in the inner and outer races line up, this will allow the balls to come out. - Sit everything in degreaser for a bit, then wash off and dry. - Re-assemble with decent fresh grease. Note: Notchyness is very unlikely to be solved by the above process; make sure the BB shell on your frame is faced or it will side load the bearing which can cause notchyness.

No worries dude, I'll bring spare spokes this time (A)

Which BB exactly?

I'm sure there will be a large queue

We'll be there offering technical support completely free of charge for most of the weekend (will take a few hours 'off' to go and ride!)

From what I remember, 7075 is virtually impossible to weld, so it'll be 6061 or 7005...

What's a Ford Pop? Agreed that projects are required to keep busy!

Haha, yeah. You have plenty of time to work out what's happening with such a well-handling car and such little grip. It has some 'better' shocks (backed right off so they are pretty soft), brakes off the 1.8 model (bigger rotors), uprated pads, AC and PAS removed to free up a bit of power, but the rest of the engine is standard. And at the other end of the scale... (First 6 mins are a bit boring, it's me learning the track mainly):

Slidey slidey:

Rockingham tomorrow, weather looks great, very few cars booked on, awesome!

Aye

Haven't read the rest of the thread (sorry), but I would say the brake has been bled with DOT fluid at some point, therefore they are dead, sorry

Still awesome I think this vid probably came out before Eengoedidee too?! 56k download speed for the lose...

http://www.google.com

Often wondered about those... but never had chance to look at one properly. I think it would have to be a bike engine in one though In unrelated news, anyone ever managed to connect to an Emerald ECU with a USB-Serial adaptor? Bought the 'official' one and it won't play ball no matter what I try (changing ports, data rates, rebooting, connecting in different orders, card running, car sat with ignition on)... Need to swap a map over before the weekend.

More material = marginally stronger, yep. (Nearly) everyone wants stupid light stuff now so that's why this sort of product is disappearing

Cos that's when the clutch is doing the most work - maximum torque going through it and maximum resistance to said torque...

I obviously did Yeah, very cheap... I think partly the reason was that it had a remap - narrowed potential buyers down to those with a little more driving experience (insurance) and those who fully understood what it was. I still believe that car was worth more than that, but it wasn't much good sitting doing nothing, or 2 miles a day not even getting up to temperature and costing me ~£1000 a year on insurance, tax and servicing. Managed to get an MX-5 and a year's insurance for that Do it, well worth a drive of one anyway I say. Oh, and an update on the cambelt thing... fitted a new belt, exactly the same brand as before (Gates Powergrip) - wobble is gone

Naahh. Mine went for £3600. 06, the only colour (blue), FSH, recent cambelt and tyres, cruise control, 110k miles. Example... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-Skoda-Octavia-2-0T-FSI-vRS-/181141080984?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a2cd98b98

Get a Skoda instead

Pic 1. http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Tech/The-Ultimate-Guide-To/i-xgj2s9j/0/O/roll_couple.gif Pic 2.. http://image.modified.com/f/17363212%20w750%20st0/0508_sccp_02_z_%20suspension%20roll_center.jpg You also need to consider the front and real roll centres and couples in relation to each other if you want to maintain 'nice' 'handling'. They are both in inverted commas because they are fairly subjective, but the general consensus is that a small account of corner entry understeer (which is a stable condition, therefore giving you the best chance of making the apex cleanly without any drama), followed by a gradual shift to slight oversteer on exit (allows you to wind lock off to reduce tyre scrub, and means you can get power on rather than having to take it off to quell understeer) is fastest. This is achieved by having a slightly higher roll couple at the front (I think that's the right end... Robin?!), which of course all sports car manufacturers know and build into the car, so by us messing about with it we are usually undoing their years of testing As always there is more to it, but it's worth reading up on if you are serious about getting the best out of your car. Took me quite while to get my car sorted but it's completely different now just from a few relatively minor and inexpensive tweaks (tyre sizes mainly!).

The roll centre is related to the angles of the wishbones, and the intersections of where they would cross if you extended their length. Roll couple is the distance between the roll centre and the centre to gravity. This value increases when you lower the car (broad statement...). A higher roll couple means there is more roll in the car when the cornering forces act through the centre of gravity. So, lowering the car often gives more body roll if everything else stays the same. However, most people will fit stiffer suspension or anti roll bars at the same time, so they don't notice it. This does make the car stiffer (loose term) though, obviously, which actually reduces the amount of grip across an axle during cornering (again if everything else is the same - in reality you'll add camber, sticky tyres etc). Too soft a car doesn't give enough feedback to the driver though and it feels all sloppy, so there is always a balance to strike... I'm on my phone so it's a bit awkward, but I'll try and find a link with diagrams explaining roll centre and couple.

Missed Alex's question before... but yeah, what Robin says. Personally - looking at the sort of terrain you are thrashing through and given that you're getting new shocks anyway - I would look at raising the ride height a touch, as that will raise the roll centre and give you more travel to play with too. Always a compromise though... A decent book I have read (and now Prawn has it) is Tune to Win by Carroll Smith. I might have mentioned it before but it does a really good job of helping you understand the considerations of suspension design (and a few more bits too). After setting up my car(s) using the book as reference, there has been a huge difference. Something that seems common is people setting their cars up too stiff and too low believing that is fast, but in many cases it has the opposite effect...