AdamR28

For some reason I just assumed it would be a sequential box with paddles So that makes complete sense.... cheers.

I was trying to work that out too, my guess was something to do with the load on the car at the time. Eg. It'll flat shift at full chat but on part throttle you need the clutch, or something. I don't know for sure though. I'd love to see the driver and road as well as the pedal view, see when and why he's doing what he is.

Yeah.

No, 2.5mm bore, 5mm OD is what you need. You simply can't get it off the shelf, it's a custom product with related minimum order quantity...

Nope, even worse than 3mm.

Nylon, and the size is custom. 3mm bore rather than 2.5 is a standard engineering size, which isn't up to the job...

That P1 - pretty cool... If anyone wants to read geeky stuff about car setup, here's a link: http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=141835

We're chatting about chainrings here though. OP: I would just run a Google search, that's the easiest way...

I have! And WTF is that?!

There's an 'other' folder? Weird... I'll have a look! Edit: Oh wow, unread messages from years ago, haha... And I think I've found your next aero package Nick:

Too many people haha Better having them on the BB shell than the downtube and chainstays, I guess...

Anything cheap and made of steel, or if you want to spend more, something like a Middleburn Hardcote.

Never thought I'd see a trials video with that song... awesome.

How much is it out by? If it's less than ~12-15mm, I wouldn't worry.

I would change that...

I was thinking that...

Camskill - might not be THE cheapest on some stuff, but they don't f**k about, always delivered next day...

Less 'e's, interesting.

And what noise does his car make?

Missed out, gutted! 5th fastest overall though, not too bad. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=617200041668968&set=a.118903801498597.25730.113557845366526&type=1&theater

Oh right, the show was pretty quiet on Friday morning so I didn't see too many people having a go. Yeah, the other bike's tyre was easier to remove, but the QR didn't clear the forks so you couldn't spin it.

Hehe, I wondered if anyone would put any videos up. Couple of 'mistakes' there, using both hands to let the tube down at the start is slow, you need one hand on the tube and undo the QR with the other, also let too much air out meaning it's hard to get the tube back in, using tyre levers was slow as well, and he didn't put enough air back in - you needed at least 12 strokes to make the full 20psi. It's a science

Actually only the top and down tubes are the same profile. Everything else (gussets, seat tube, seat stays, chainstays, dropouts, head tube, BB shell, brake booster plate) is different, thankfully!

I think the prize was a pretty hefty Park tool set though...

Start: Bike in a workstand, front wheel fitted, V brake fitted, tyre at 20psi.... Deflate tube Remove wheel from forks Remove inner tube completely Re-fit tube / tyre Fit wheel to bike and inflate to 20psi