AdamR28

Yeah, they are a nice bit of kit in the flesh. Priced a bit more than bb7s though and as much as a proven hydraulic disc... Would any of you guys buy them? We didn't think so but happy to get some in!

Mirror finish is good. If it's not mirrored, then it's not bedded in. Sanding the disc will make the brake worse, and you'll have to bed it in again. Sounds like contamination, do not use brake cleaner or this will ruin the brake! Cold, clean water is the best thing. Splash it all over the rotor, the drag the brake on and off gently while riding at slow jogging pace, just 'scrubbing' not pulling hard. Add more water, repeat, keep going until the water on the rotor runs clear. Let it dry then away you go.

Fixed :wink2:

Ah, thought you meant Echo, Hope would be about 40. Maximum tension isn't the same as good tension, and those rims are different to Echos...

Hmmm, hopefully I didn't, haha. That's way too much for an M6 bolt. I would say no more than about 12Nm depending on the grade. Spoke tension, we go to about 900 usually.

Spokes are steel, but both those materials show the same properties, yeah. I'm not sure how much spokes would stretch at full tension, but it could be worked out fairly easily. 1mm makes no difference to being able to true the wheel though.

You need to TDC your engine and mark the cam sprockets, much easier!

That's bollocks, it's just because they don't know how to build wheels properly. Spokes DO stretch, but they don't go past their elastic limit, so they don't need re-tensioning.

It's a logical mechanical job, not difficult but scary first time in case it goes wrong. The worst bit is often access. Have a look on Google for some home-brew guides, combine that with the official workshop manual for torque settings etc, and you should be able to manage it

Was wondering when this debate would begin

That can't still be going on!?

That is a serious downer All my 'projects' on cars so far have been 100% successful, I can't imagine how I'd feel if one went wrong... Still - good on you for battling through, hopefully the final end result will be even better!

I am guessing that question is about frame kits rather than Conti tyres? If so, no further updates at the moment assume still April, but wouldn't hold breath just in case.

Nope, sorry. Literally no worthwhile info!

*confused* :'(

Nope. Actually yes. But Conti never stick to their dates, so not really any point saying they said April.

The ones I just measured are definitely 25mm offset (well, slightly closer to 26mm than 25mm if you're being mega anal).

For some reason I just assumed it would be a sequential box with paddles So that makes complete sense.... cheers.

I was trying to work that out too, my guess was something to do with the load on the car at the time. Eg. It'll flat shift at full chat but on part throttle you need the clutch, or something. I don't know for sure though. I'd love to see the driver and road as well as the pedal view, see when and why he's doing what he is.

Yeah.

No, 2.5mm bore, 5mm OD is what you need. You simply can't get it off the shelf, it's a custom product with related minimum order quantity...

Nope, even worse than 3mm.

Nylon, and the size is custom. 3mm bore rather than 2.5 is a standard engineering size, which isn't up to the job...

That P1 - pretty cool... If anyone wants to read geeky stuff about car setup, here's a link: http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=141835