AdamR28
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Everything posted by AdamR28
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Decent tyres first, engine last.
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Said tests will narrow it down straight away - if you have time give us a call Dave!
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I am guess it's a stem thing, but hard to say for sure without some further tests which are too time consuming to type out now! If you wanna give us a call Dave I can explain.
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Yep, it's here: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/classic/c567.html
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Sounds cool, however I don't think it'll end up much stiffer than two 10mm steel bolts! Be interested to see what it ends up like though
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That'd be good One of the ones we built is this one: Lines up perfectly as you can see. Is it possible the gear ratio isn't 18:15? Slightly silly question but that's the only thing I can imagine causing an issue...
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To the OP - got any pics of it setup? As above, not seen any issues before. The couple we've built have been bob on. Cheers.
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Supercharged Type R engine I think.
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Unless you're spanking the car on track its not needed, just get bog standard stuff from motor factors, tis good stuff though.
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I think my definition of a shed is different to yours! I'd class all of my cars as a bit sheddy... Speaking of sheds, have booked Blyton Park track day for this Saturday if anyone's free and wants to pop along.
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Each to their own
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If your car's f**ked, it's bad. If it isn't, put more in and continue to drive it.
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Think we've managed to get some... should be in stock soon. For info, the O ring does the sealing, so you could screw this part in by hand and the brake would still seal. Manual says 0.5Nm.
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No, the Viz are a much nicer bar.
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Could be a product liability issue? These pads aren't cut BTW, they are moulded to the correct shape, saves production time and improves quality.
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They are reasonably priced. The pad manufacturer only offers complete pads.
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Stans had one of the front disc hubs for about 3 years now, still spins smoother than my Echo one did after a few rides. Same with the rear hub, they've been in testing for even longer.
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Can just top the lever up, no need to bleed the whole system.
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If that's what you want, grind a bit off the back of the end of the lever blade, so the start position is further from the bars. It's a fact that you can exert more force with a more bent finger, though. Around 90 degrees bend is optimal.
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It's already been in testing for a few years, but this is the first time it's been seen in public.
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Yeah, it's meant to be stiff, the Chorrillas one is '3D' rather than just a bit of bent flat sheet.
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I think the triangulation of a set of tubes allows would be stiffer but only down to a certain frame size. Once the standover is so small you're better off with one big section.
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You either have a bent rotor or air in the brake.
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Got myself a new bike rack for the car
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Sounds kinky...
