AdamR28

I run about 25 rear and 30 front, that's quite a lot harder than most though...

Hamilton again showing who's boss...

I'm not sure off the top of my head, website stock will be up to date though. Can get more for Thursday if they are out.

Craig has already answered!

Beauty

Add a blowtorch for instant win... (and a small fireball, but that bit's quite fun).

Personally I wouldn't bother - fixed tensioners are hit and miss at the best of times, even with two mounting positions. With just one it'll come loose all the time.

Yeah, others who have been in touch have said the same. As stated, any issues have been isolated (and, from what I can tell, limited to the top riders in the world - even then it's just the forks haven't been lasting as long as the prototype sets) so most forks will be absolutely fine, it's just Trialtech want to 100% ensure rider safety. Extra info has been added recently: Update 2:10pm: The offer of a refund or replacement items is open until the end of April 2014, no matter how old your forks are at this date. However, we understand if you wish to continue to use the fork should you have had no problems so far, but we must stress that this would be at your own risk. Once the end of April 2014 has passed, any forks outside of the normal 6 month warranty period will not qualify for the recall scheme.

Had to type this out for someone else. You've already done 1): What we need to do is work out exactly where the creak is coming from, here are a few tests to narrow it down. If you can make a note of exactly when any creaks appear (as in, 50% pressure, bars turned at 60 degrees, etc) that would be great: 1) Stand over the bike with one hand on each grip, the front wheel in line with the frame and gradually increase downward pressure onto the bars until all your weight is over them. 2) Do the same again with the bars turned 180 degrees. 3) Do the same test as 1), but this time with both hands on one grip. Do both left and right hand sides independently. This will feel a bit horrible as the bike will flex a LOT, but you don't need all your weight. 4) Sit on the bike with the front wheel up against a wall and the bars straight. Apply pressure slowly and gradually to the pedals to try and drive the bike through the wall. Don't touch the bars while doing this - if you need to keep the front end straight, grab the stem. Keep going until the rear tyre is about to lose grip. 5) Do the same again but with the bars turned 180 degrees. 6) Stand the bike on the rear wheel and turn the bars slowly from left to right (to rotate the headset), trying to get a full 360 rotation (180 degrees left and 180 degrees right) if you can. 7) Stand over the front wheel facing towards the rear of the bike and grip the front tyre / wheel between your knees. Twist the bars left to right (as if you are trying to steer) but resist the twisting with your knees.

Ah man, that sucks... Sorry to hear about it

I am just guessing here, but I don't think many girls know what their vaginas look like, unless they are pornstars.

I had a read over this thread a few weeks back. I'm glad I'm old and my hormones have stopped playing up now

Fell off the frame, you mean?

That was cool. Decent riding, no pretentious bullshit, just people having fun

Short trackday vid from yesterday... Had a wicked time with Stan, Ben Lee (anyone remember him?), John the Mong (also still rides trials a bit) and our mate Dan. Stan drove my car and tank slappered it onto the grass, haha - didn't have the camera rolling though New twin master setup is awesome, brakes had so much more feel and the bias adjuster was really useful too. Running a 0.75" up front and a 0.625" (sorry for the units!) at the rear with the bias bar set a little rearwards, which shows how underbraked the rear of the car was previously! My legs are bloody stiff today though, lol, pedal force required is somewhere around the 50kg region so I did a lot of 'reps' yesterday!

I think what JD was trying to say was... It looks cool in a 'first level on Forza' kinda way, but not in real life

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/rim_brake_spares/magura_ebt_screw/c5p12522.html

Take the non drive side out, put the drive side in first, then the non drive afterwards. It'll be the BB hitting the LH cup.

Decent tyres first, engine last.

Said tests will narrow it down straight away - if you have time give us a call Dave!

I am guess it's a stem thing, but hard to say for sure without some further tests which are too time consuming to type out now! If you wanna give us a call Dave I can explain.

Yep, it's here: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/classic/c567.html

Sounds cool, however I don't think it'll end up much stiffer than two 10mm steel bolts! Be interested to see what it ends up like though

That'd be good One of the ones we built is this one: Lines up perfectly as you can see. Is it possible the gear ratio isn't 18:15? Slightly silly question but that's the only thing I can imagine causing an issue...

To the OP - got any pics of it setup? As above, not seen any issues before. The couple we've built have been bob on. Cheers.