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Sponge

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Everything posted by Sponge

  1. Trialtechs seem the best in terms of strength/weight ratio. Though, as a general question for anyone who knows: Since the T-tech dropouts are of the '9mm industry standard', aside from T-tech hubs, what brand hubs fit them without modification?
  2. Surely the exact same as the Wurth 'Timeserts' on their site? Though all the merrier if what you actually mean is a whole other thread fix option !
  3. Thanks very much Forteh, that Timesert method looks like the perfect solution! Are bigserts readily available at most specialist high street tool stores? One thing I wonder is, would it be safe/alright to put blue loctite around the bigsert's outer threads first? At least for helicoils I hear it's not a wise idea to use anything like loctite or copper grease since it is essentially a spring instead of a full-on solid insert. I suppose I could eBay around for a bigsert kit, but if it's available on the high street I wouldn't mind getting it there if it's not that much more than on the Bay! EDIT: For the M5 size, what is the outer diameter of the timesert as opposed to the 6.25mm of the M5 bigsert?
  4. Top banana, hope you enjoy it for many moooons
  5. I've dug up some info but in short: The hole needs to be drilled/tapped out to 5.2mm with 0.8mm thread pitch, seems the current M6x1.0 thread pitch won't allow an M5 helicoil.
  6. Thanks for the suggestions so far, especially forteh . Re. the brake mounts threads, is there much of a difference between a helicoil and a timesert? I traced back to an old topic of mine years ago where the general consensus was that it was impossible to turn an M6 sized hole back into M5 using a regular helicoil as the actual hole size required for an M5 helicoil insert was something very fine in between 5mm and 6mm. Unless times have changed and now it is possible to get an actual M6-->M5 helicoil? If the BB cup's splines could actually fit a BB tool without it slipping all over, I'd happily put a bit of oomph in it. But stripped splines= not a possibility. No worries, I'll sort it out one way or another! It's the brake mounts I'm most concerned with.
  7. Hey, I recently bought back an old frame I used to ride off the guy I sold it to years ago. Now it's back in my hands in a horrendous condition but I'd like to get it up and running. There are a few things that need to be fixed on it first though, so I'm hoping I could get some help from you guys! 1. Stuck BB- Sorted. Just had to bolt down a few washers to secure the BB tool. Splines had more bite than the jagged worn appearance gave off! 2. Helicoiling. This frame already has M6 threads instead of M5, but one of the threads has been stripped out. So I might as well helicoil all 4. I know there's a lot on helicoiling kicking around the forum from the past but to be more specific is there any way I can restore it to an M5 thread? Or am I stuck with M6 helicoiling? In any case, is it possible to install the helicoil without drilling? I noticed *some* helicoil kits come with everything minus the specific sized drill bit whilst others specifically come with it? 3. Seeing as Stagonset are going through changes, is there any other online store that sells bolts/hardware at a reasonable price and in individual quantities? I'm put off buying a bulk of 100 bolts from certain sites y'see! To be specific I need something in this size but in steel: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/aluminium_bolts/probolt_m6_x_10_alloy_1/c522p10040.html (Unless, it's suitable for snail cam bolt stress? Yep, the guy tapped it out to M6!) 4. When it comes to helicoiling, what is the normal length of helicoil that people use for brake mounts? 10mm? or shorter? It wouldn't hurt to get as suitable a length as possible!
  8. Clean, tidy and very smart frame there! How's the new geometry panning out for you so far? Seems a very good value for money frame considering it includes the whole BB/crankbolt set!
  9. Reach is a fairly overlooked and underrated part of geometry. BB height for all the old Deng mod tank-frames are the same (+55) except for the GU mods.
  10. WB isn't the best indicator for sizing up parts to different parts, but if it helps, I've got a brand new one here that measures out with 605mm reach from centre of BB shell to top of headtube.
  11. Good frames! Very underrated. These aren't as fragile as the stocks, s'alls good! Enjoy it!
  12. These aren't the best pictures as they were small to begin with and couldn't be saved normally, so I just did a very quick 'print screen' and paste job on Paint. Should give a rough outline of what they look like fully built anyway! For those interested, notice the Born mod frames here are a little different to the ones currently available in the UK: option of 4-bolt OR disc, and also a completely one-piece CNC machined chainstay/BB yoke with Born logo machined into it.
  13. I might have some somewhere, pictures of a Born 20" with 4-bolt mounts and a completely one-piece CNC-machined BB/chainstay yoke too. I'll post back when I get home. EDIT: Pictures below
  14. Fair enough, I may try it out as a little test with the existing 130x25 I have lying here in future, but looks like a 'normal' mod stem for the long run! Thanks for your advice!
  15. Saw these on Facebook a little while ago, some of you might have seen it already too but for those who haven't, it's a pretty interesting idea! Last I heard from Acroland shop in Italy, the unofficial stated price so far is 55 Euros. 100% made in Italy!
  16. I really like most Trialtech parts, but crank-wise a 'budget' option that is really nice are the current Echo TR cranks. Maybe it's just me, but IMO, TR cranks are definitely better than Trialtech cranks at only a little bit more on the paypal account. Length-wise I'd recommend 170 for stock or mod. I never liked the feel of stubby 160s on a mod, just feels a little awkward? Personal preference at the end of the day, but 170s will give you more leverage and a bit of extra control in a way.
  17. I was hoping to get some kind of a similar effect that you recommend on 24"s and streety 26"s (shorter stems with good rise). Seeing as stackers'll be put under the stem to achieve a similar height to longer stems of the same degree angle. Just a little idea floating around, still be able to ride traditional trials because of the decent angle and height of the front end, but make hopefully a little easier to wrench up and spin with a stubbier length! If it doesn't work well on a mod, then the idea's going in recycling!
  18. Evenin' all, I'm just curious as to how a modern stock stem designed for higher BB bikes, namely the Trialtech Sport High Rise stem at 130x25 would fare on a mod? The angle is the same as a lot of mod stems, but slightly stubbier at 130mm. The shortest stems marketed for mods seem to have floated around the 145mm mark. I'm thinking in theory maybe bunnyhops and general pulling up may be easier so long as enough stackers are placed underneath the stem to provide a sensible height. I'm wondering has anyone tried it on their mods? If so, how did it compare to longer lengthed stems like 145x25 or 150x35? Thanks! any input is appreciated!
  19. Agreed. Everything looks great so far, I think tyres generally have some kind of 'gloss' to them, especially the Try-Alls from experience.
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