Sponge

Zoo Python YZ 2005: top rear mounts: 96mm bottom rear mounts: 98mm Onza T-Master Forks: top mounts: 83mm bottom mounts: 85mm Onza T-Pro/T-Bird standard cromo forks: top mounts: 82mm bottom mounts: 84mm Onza T-Pro 2003 frame: top rear mounts: 92mm bottom rear mounts: 94mm Happy to help :D still using the old school Baby Blue and Yellow Heatsinks :P

Pads: Heatsink Batch B Yellow Time used: 2 months Rim used: Try-All Grind: Dead Ceramic: No Tar: Yes Brake used: Magura Hs33 2004 royalblood What is your opinion of a working brake: Good on and off bite and hold. How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Not bad at all, comes just behind Heatsink Batch C Blues... Way better than Koxx Brown, Koolstops, and Magura Blacks on my rim... I got these pads off a friend, there was about 7mm of pad material left and felt really bad at first... Then after smearing a tiny bit of tar on... the brake started to work magnificently... Even when tar wore off, and I cleaned the pads, the braking was still awesome, I still get one or two little slips when I land funny, but overall these pads are awesome, the wear rate is pretty good, I can't see any siginifact pad wear in the last few weeks, the modulation is not so great as this brake setup I used was all about lock and bite instant. These pads give a really nice high pitched squeak which inspires confidence into me when riding :P Would buy these pads again if they were still produced :D

Very nice Bt6s!! Why can't mods get more variety :D Anyway, isn't using plazmatic disc rotor/pads pretty pricey compared to the standard disc set up?

Nice video :D

You could somehow hacksaw or cut a line across the allen bolt head, and fit a flat screwdriver in there and hammer it anticlockwise, it's worked for me on a loctited and rounded Disc rotor bolt.

Awesome riding (Y) :) Well worth downloading

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuPxHuVMxZ6/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CuaAdtagiWt/

Super nice T-Lite there! Perhaps even better looking than yours Jonny? (Y)" Now I've finally seen a T-Lite ridden well on the TRA England vids, the bike looks pretty nice in action, I wouldn't have minded buying a T-Lite frame after seeing that video, but oh well, I'm happy with what I have already.

Thanks guys, I've set the handlebar onto the total upright position, and my wrists feel so much more comfy... Perhaps I should upgrade to risers in the future, but not until I totally mangle my flats (Y)

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Ben, I think this 'vid' is compiled of only Tim and Steve riding around me and Tim's local area, and London too... And Ben, we're going to have to beat people like Chai to get into the vid, which is no chance (Y) Anyway, yes I'm probably coming, and Adrian I'm bringing the fiver I owe you :D

2005 Team :P MUCH stronger brake mounts and better booster built in... already apparantly some people's Python 05s are starting to show fatigue at the brake mounts... :P Either are excellent choices, or why not wait for the 2006 Python when it comes out, which I expect won't be long :P

I'll soon be buying 661 Cedric gloves, got to love the carbon knuckle protection and color scheme. :P But unfortunately, it's not really the cheapest pair! But you get what you pay for :P

The mod bashplate lol... a street rider's 3rd tyre as it were :) . The bashplate is revolutionary, from my experiences, bashplates are easier to use, they protect the bike more than a bashring and sit better than a bashring can (Y)" ...

Will be coming again B), to try and improve my riding :P ... Hehe, I've been doing about 50 rolling pedal hops onto 4 pallets in my garden, harsh training :blink:. Certainly will be up for riding, and watching :P Hope to see lots of you there! B)

I once wanted slick tyres for example Maxxis Hookworm... but then you find that even riding street, little bits of stone, broken twigs and little gravel on the ground... on the street... all this rips apart slick tyres... I have found that slick tyres get gashes on them and plus slick tyres don't grip for peanuts, its like running oil on your rims... Bald tyres tend to pinch easier from my experiences, yes they do roll better, but just feel wank for hopping around on, even in hot summer street.. Just get treaded tyres...

As well as a trials brake, sort of, because in the actual official manual they say 'Koolstops'.. perfect for the trials enthusiast! So therefore, HS33s are designed for XC, but also are designed for trials usage as well...

Yes, you could get higher than UCI people, but landing hard on bash looks sh*t and feels crap... never mind the ghastly noise. No JT, you are wrong yet again, they are not designed as grind plates, they are bashguards, take it literally bash----guard.... lol. It's designed as a last resort protection. But going into street, more and more people have started getting into using it in another way it wasn't entirely designed for... ie. smashing headlong into walls on bashplate bending it etc.

Yes, the design of the downtube bash mount isn't the best I've seen... It's just a circlular bit of metal welded into the downtube... It appears very fragile compared to say, other Downtube bash mounts like those headtube-gusset shaped ones found on the Onza T-Pro's downtube. But also, the guy who cracked the T-Mag 05 basically scourned it to an inch of its life by bending the bashplate into the shape of a twisted tree :D" and as Supercycles have told me, bent bashplates should not be ridden with as they actually are really bad for your frame... So what they say is hand in your old bashplate and get 50% off a new bashplate, wow cool! A cheaper 50% off new bashplate so our frames don't crack from crappy old bent ones! Plus it looks wank going to bash :- compared to direct backwheel landing... It's a terrible habit and as Supercycles have told me, the bashplate is designed as a last resort protection, not a huge grind plate for smashing onto walls... (Y)

Could well be chainline problems, in that case, obviously run a shorter Bottom bracket... or the chain is upside-down if it's a KMC Kool Chain, because upside down means there's a bigger space between links for KMC Kool Chains so it skips and screws up more frequently... Just try everything, buy a new chain if necessary too.... and if you can, try avoiding usage of split links... They tend to be more fragile than normal links.

Damon, another idea is that you could get a hacksaw and sort of make a line in the crankbolt side, the bit that is supposed to touch the plastic washer... sever a line on that bit of crankbolt... *** a screwdriver in that line, and hammer... This has worked for me on a loctited rounded Crankbolt and Disc rotor bolts... (Y) Hope this helped :-

https://www.bitchute.com/video/phC5j9MDhmC6/

Python 2005 rides nice, feels great for sidehopping and pedal hopping, good for street, but for natural it feels very flicky and good for static gapping. However, bar and stem etc. affect things a lot as well...

Left foot forward... can just about bunnyhop a few centimetres with right foot forward.