Sponge

"Safe and effective"

I don't know everything, I just happen to know how to fix most contaminated discs... let's just give the arguing a rest, and I'll try to help you on your disc brake

I never said rear disc was *bad*... Just a lot of frames and wheels have been known to break because of using a rear disc... What with the new Monty 2006 rear disc mounts and the KOT internal disc mount... I think those with a Hope Mono trial and a strong wheelbuild would be better than a Rear Magura, however, it'll be more expensive..

You thinking black pads work well with tar when it doesn't etc. Anyway who cares right now... onto your disc, what were you trying to do when you flamed your disc rotor? If it was contaminted and pads too.... it's easy to fix, I've even fixed a North Shore rider's front Disc brake by putting the rotor and pads in boiling water, which drives oil out, then spray loads of Muc-Off Disc Brake cleaner off and wipe it hard with a cloth... then boil again and wash again... repeated process 3 times with both pads and rotor and it was pretty damn nice afterwards. But then again, I've found rebleeding annoyingly hard for some reason, :P

Bloody big stuff... does Keito ride an XTP normally? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I *think* I've seen Keito somewhere riding a Vinco Monsterboy mod.

By the way you normally post, you think you know everything about everything... Now what you've done is a little silly... First of all, I'd boil the rotor and pads, and spray some cleaning alcohol onto it, and keep washing them... if that doesn't work... then get a new rotor and pads... You do realise that overheated pads don't work for peanuts? You didn't use fire on your pads too did you??!! :P I doubt attacking discs with fire is a good idea...

Rear disc is slowly taking over Magura Hs33 I fear :P"

Didn't Onza say that this Zona would be released in two weeks....? They said that about 6 weeks ago though! I hope this doesn't turn out to be like the T-Bone situation and have it delayed for further prototyping... It's just about the same frame as Python 2005, except with internal headtube and bashplate mounts... ohh also the Zona is 7005 alloy rather than Ultra 6 :P

Certainly go for it! It looks nicer, but reduces only a bit of weight... and yes it does decrease strength, seeing as drilled rims are not recommended for unicycle trials, whereas non-drilled rims are... If people are so touchy about weight saving, then why not take loose change out or have a haircut and finger nails clipped more? :P

Pretty nice riding done there :P :)

:) aren't those frames meant to be strong with the Shock Absorbing Frame design? Plus Monty warranty sucks in my opinion :P

Nice video :P

I'm assuming you use the ACS Claws freewheel, or are the 2004 standard ones Dictas? Anyway, this is a common problem people face, and if it's what I think it is, it's easily solved, just get a screwdriver and place the head of it into a circular hole on the freewheel on lockring. Then get a hammer and hit the screwdriver ANTICLOCKWISE to tighten the freewheel lockring, then there should be no more annoying clicking... But basically, what you have to do to get rid of it totally, is loctite the lockring threads, meaning you need to take the crankarm off and take the freewheel apart VERY CAREFULLY... I'm sure there's an essay Onzaboymark wrote on 'How to service your ACS front freewheel'...

Yes and yes, the tabs are only ground off so they don't rub against the Bottom bracket cups on the outside of the frame's BB shell... I have seen a fair few Monty cranks take ACS claws and echo bashrings... Echo cranks certainly can do that too..You'll need a fairly wideish bottom bracket though.

Downloading Vid, should be good :lol: I hope Toxsin release a mod, I wonder what it'll look like :shifty:

Not quite the exact same looking as Echo Team 2005 forks... The CNC bit on the GU forks is sort of flat, whereas the Echo forks are sort of 'dug in'... Just compare the two at the CNC section near steerer and you'll see :shifty: . They probably have slightly different geometry to eachother and they only look similar aesthetically.

The Viz mod stem is same as Echo Team and Onza T-Master stems in geometry... Tartybikes have the geometries of both of those stems (which are of course the same)...

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I've found KMCs almost everywhere... check all your LBS and Halfords especially, as all the Halfords I've been to have both versions of the KMC Kool for singlespeed and 9speed :) Costs around £10-£15 not sure. :)

Decided to back out due to rainy morning :) I think I'll practice my natural a bit more instead at home once the sun is up :).

Well, JT's got it really... of course with longer cranks you're going to get more leverage for pedal kicking etc. But there's obviously less ground clearance. But if you are a stronger more powerful rider, I think longer cranks with a slightly higher gear ratio or something will be good... seeing as longer cranks make gears easier to pedal on.

what works *best* for me, is Muc-Off Disc Brake Cleaner spray... it wipes tar off so nicely and any other crap, its effortless, and if it says it can treat contamined disc brakes then it's got to be good at breaking down oil-based stuff like tar and mineral fluid... This is the one: http://www.muc-off.co.uk/bicyclediscbrakecleaner.html

One of the brake mounts cracked, even though he did run a booster... However someone else's mounts ALL cracked due to not running a booster :'(