Sponge

I had this problem years ago when I first started, it could be one of these three reasons or a combination: A. What frame do you have firstly? There is a chance that one dropout/chainstay is twisted a little, it isn't unheard of that a small handful of frames just come like this from the factory. But I'd hazard a guess that bending/twisting could've come just from neglect and/or harsh riding. ^If so, that could be the main culprit as it's a fairly big problem in the flatland world. Bent dropouts and chainstays aren't good at keeping axles in line. B. If that doesn't seem the case, check that your axle is sat perfectly evenly in the dropouts. So pull the driveside cam as far as it'll go and then pull the non driveside cam an equal amount as possible. Just wedge different sizes of allen keys into the space between the beginning of the dropout slot and the axle. One certain sized allen key (can't say which 'til you've tried as it depends on your set up) should have a tight snug fit in either side dropouts' gaps. This is to ensure your axle is even in the dropouts. If your rim is over to one side, just dish it over 'til it's straight and even. ^When I first started out, I thought that aligning the rim centrally inside the frame was the a good method (horizontal dropouts). So even though the rim lined up against the pads nicely, the axle in the dropouts was fairly angled pretty biasedly to one side. So I had to readjust my wheel very often as it'd slip. Then, I was advised that having the axle centered in the dropouts was more important and that I could just realign the rim centrally to the pads and seatstays by dishing and a bit of truing. Worked a treat! No more wheel slip, just because I centred my axle. C. Snail cams and axle washers need changing. If A and B aren't the culprits, just bite the bullet and buy a new set of snail cams and serrated axle washers. Not too expensive, and should be a lot more secure than a smooth axle washer and haggard old cams. Trialtech actually make some CNC'd toothed cams, it's on their site, but I can't remember the last time I saw it stocked on any site Shit that was a long post. But I hope it's of help!

Strip it all apart and start from the beginning, I remember I had a similar problem a few years ago. -Check stem for any sharp edges or corners, if they have 'em, just sand or file them down gently -Provided stem's fine, just apply copper grease to the bolts (helps with tightening the bar down evenly and to a higher torque if necessary) -For the bar: check for any signs of wear or deformation. Sometimes it can happen if the stem was overtightened way too much -Provided bar's fine, put a thin coating of regular grease around the area the stem'd clamp onto. A few Zoo! bars back in the day had creak issues and normally some grease helped stop the creaking against stem. (just don't cake the bar in grease or you might find it slips in the stem! A thin coating is enough to silence the metal-on-metal grinding) That should work, but if not, post back and I'm pretty sure you'll get a final solution in the end!

Sweet Hifi! I've always liked those frames, how does it compare to your Ozonys ride-wise now?

Most driveside chainstays and yokes would break, even on the strongest of frames. Chain mashing against the chainstay tubing and yoke weld would wear away enough material over time to weaken that area irreversibly. I don't think any trials frames are invulnerable to this! . I'm not disagreeing with you here Kris, but if going by how butting works for high-end MTB/BMX frames with DB tubing (and also good quality DB spokes) then in theory these new SLs should be a bit more long lasting against 'normal' fatigue? So, so long as the downtube isn't twatted against obstacles (or at least protected by a protector) it shouldn't be any weaker than the non-SL Lite? Just some thoughts Though correct me if I'm wrong!

I never thought you were ever a mod guy, Ali?! Unless it's Mark on Ali's then that makes sense -- On topic- MECs are pretty damn good for their price. Kinda like an 'upgraded' CC if you get me? But CCs are good value tyres for when you need a temporary tyre whilst waiting to get MEC or Tryall Stiky Lite.

Holy crap that's high! But it is great to test out new things, for all we know it could become quite standard in a couple years' time!

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/26_inch_frames/echo_pure_sl_2011_with_bb/c14p11612.html Here's hoping the new '11 SL rims'll be up on the site soon

There are still various places across Europe and some in Asia that still sell older Deng frames. But obviously the more 'popular' models sold out a lot faster. This time last year I remember that Trialmarkt.de still sold all models of 2008 GUs, 2007 ZOO!s, and the '07 Adamant A1, with various Echo 07-09 models too. Now it seems on the Echo page there's only really the 2009 Control and Pure (+30 and +25 respectivly): Click There is still a short '07 Pitbull (135mm vertical version) for sale super cheap (165 euros) and the '09 Piranha here: Pow This is only looking at the German store though, so I wouldn't be surprised if some other European shops still had some other older frames from Deng.

Trialtech 4-bolt brake booster

haha but yeah, the '09 Python isn't particularly long, and it just looks stubby because of its shape combined with its shortness? On paper it is 1010mm wb, from what I vaguely remember. Pay closer attention to 'reach' when looking for a new frame rather than focusing mainly on the stated wheelbase as forks and horizontal dropouts will alter the WB to make it deceptively longer/shorter

Looks really fresh, Mark! I'm probably pretty far behind here, but I thought you always had Echo TR pedals on! Do you prefer the feel of Inspireds now? Sweet clips too , I haven't actually ridden a 24" set up like yours but do you find you can do pretty much everything you could do on your BMX (street-wise)? Seems so! Looking forward to the next full length vid

BMX Spanish & Mid BBs, from my experience are pretty simple... especially since axles are 'floating' inside the shell between the bearings. I don't know if it's as simple for the Echo ISIS ones as they have collars machined into them to sit the axle tight between the bearings. Basically, with the axle out, you can just gently tap the bearings out with a thick enough wood pole/stick and a mallet without damaging the BB shell. As for your new axle... lightly coat the inside threads AND the ISIS bolt threads in copper anti-seize and just tighten as normal. However, if you're using Echo's alu bolts then Mark W's advice comes in pretty handy, which I use: When it comes to 'pressing' the cranks onto the axle splines, use a set of decent steel bolts (any M15 standard steel bolts from another ISIS BB) as the threads are more durable than aluminium ones. Just follow the same copper anti-seize routine for this. Then, once the cranks are sat on snug, remove the steel bolts and just screw in your alu ones. This process should prevent you from putting stress on the alu threads of the Echo CNC bolts during the 'pressing on' phase. Once the cranks are already seated tight, the alu bolts then screwed in just do the simple 'locking' job as any ISIS crankbolt would, but you skip out the stressing of threads by having steel ones press the cranks on for you first. I do this with my Trialtech Sport Lite BB: Just use the steel bolts as supplied with it to press cranks on, then remove them, and screw in my Echo CNC alu ones. Bit long-winded for how simple the job is, but I hope the step-by-step detail makes it easier for you!

BMX-style chain tugs... But I wouldn't recommend them. More fiddly/bulkier/heavier/fragile than snail cams. Generally aren't ideal in any way for trials, not many BMXers even use the anymore. There is another option though... Slammers. Just punch in 'Simple wheel slammers' into Google, you'll get a better explanation on there, I've used them on a BMX before and they work better than pretty much every other horizontal tensioner WHEN you get the right size to slot in. Extra useful as you don't need to worry about realigning your wheel as it takes care of it for you. I know chains stretch, but if you're using the Z610HX, the stretch is minimal and it's probably the most reliable chain out of what's commonly available. So... you could get away with 1 set of slammers (each individual slammer has 2 'sizes', e.g.: 0.5mm and 1mm) or have another pair in one more size up. Depending on how often you change frames and chainstay lengths, you could theoretically make do with only 2 pairs of slammers... one 'thinner' set for when chain is brand new and bedding in, and then another set that's the next step up in thickness to sit for the rest of the chain's life. Once chain snaps, get a new one... and back to the 1st set of slammers! They go in 0.5mm increments, so with 2 sets of slammers you're covered for a whole 2mm worth of slack. Completely out of the way, and lighter than snail cams. Completely sets your axle even in your dropouts as soon as you install both sides so one less thing to worry about. Good long term investment! Just replace your cams with 3mm worth of washers to take up the slack in between the dropouts and insert one slammer into each outside of a dropout slot. No fiddling with alignment like cams! **Shops only sell the 14mm BMX versions, but there's a guy on OTN from Canada who custom makes the exact same out of 6061 alu exactly the same specs as the black ones by Simple BMX except in 10mm versions for trials. He charges a good price, considering they're custom made in his machine shop individually from a solid block to an extremely precise tolerance, and since they're light as hell, you could still get a very reasonable postage price for a large number of pairs. I've bought some before, so if you're interested in the idea of them, I can pass on some contact details ^(For 2 different sized pairs, and postage incl.. it came to around the same price as a set of regular UK-bought snail cams if not a couple pounds more) V.bored at the moment, but hope this might be of help to some people looking for alternatives!

It is honestly worth spending the little extra to get a front sealed hub. 'Open-bearing' hubs are more hassle then they're worth in almost all cases. Sealed front hubs are pretty much fit-and-forget. The sealed ones by Onza aren't very expensive at all and pretty light too.

Bearing pullers normally work good. A lot of people in unicycling and a few in BMX used them for getting crazy tight Profile cranks off (which don't have any removal threads). Otherwise go with what Greetings said about riding. It will come off eventually so long as the crank bolt is off. A bit of WD40 or similar to break the 'seal' should help if it's still being stubborn!

Aside from the new grey 'Team', they've released a Mark II 'Lite' as well now. No HS33 mounts and has the same integrated tensioner design as the new Team and the other frames.

Fair enough, makes sense Looking at the rim-only pics and how parts of the sidewall have the square protruding slightly into them, would the front rim be suitable for grind+front HS33 use?

That's awesome, thanks for the info! Little off-topic, but do/will you stock the double butted Echo SL spokes? Currently it seems that there aren't any readily available DB spoke sizes for 19" wheelbuilds especially!

At first glance I thought it was a custom anodized 'Lite' frame. Pretty neat! Especially the rims... are they a new 'n updated official version of the Echo SL rims? Front one looks great, are they still the same width as the original SLs or more the 39/47mm of the Trialtech and Atomz rims? Would be great to see the other models!... and the new Zoo! 20"

Wondered for a while... what are the advantages of Post vs IS? I'm not a disc user, but seeing the new Sky 2s and people advocating PM got me pondering...

Nicer than I expected for sure! How tall do the stackers come to in total out of curiosity? Seems pretty high to me.. Must be fun though!

I've always thought Echo 6061/TR cranks had a nice shape and design ever since the first version came out in 2005 (more or less the same as the 6061 forged on TB site). I've not heard of one set to snap ever, though as with any cranks if you're not careful you can potentially strip some threads. I'd personally go with Echo 6061s or the current lightened up TRs.

It depends on the frame and the way the mounts are welded onto the seatstays. I think there are a fair few frames that probably won't crack for yeeears without a booster but some frames like the '06 Python cracked a lot at the brake mounts. On a frame without a one-piece inbuilt brake booster/mounts plate welded on I'd run a 4-bolt booster just to be safe, but mainly just to have a better feeling brake! (personal preference!)

For a factory specced bike, that's one of the best I've ever seen in trials! There are loads of people getting into trials on these builds in China, good work Deng! On topic: Tyres, as everyone else mentioned, though it isn't an immediate emergency. Something relatively cheap but grippier and better performing I'd suggest a Kenda SB8 up front and Monty Eagle Claw rear. Chain is very important though: KMC/Trialtech Z610HX upgrade without a doubt! As an optional though, maybe ditch those 160s for 170s . It's personal pref, but at least for me the extra leverage and the general pedalling feel of 170s feels *a lot* better. I'm not particularly tall nor short but backwheel control and general two-wheel control feels more balanced and less cramped with my feet further apart.

Shame to hear that you've had that problem! From the looks of someone's I saw a couple weeks back it seems like just a regular grubscrew you can get from any good fastener stockist just to backup the above suggestions! When fitting the replacement(s) maybe blue loctite could help a bit to stop them from coming loose too quickly. I think the worst case scenario is if this issue kept arising and the dropout threads got worn out or stripped a bit. Hope it gets sorted soon!