Sponge

Lites and SLs are much much lighter but incredibly flexy. I had Team CNCs a few years ago, I remember it being incredibly stiff. Probably the stiffest curved mod forks to date, but they're extremely heavy by today's standards! Go for the new Echo SL 2012 forks, they've been revised and theoretically stronger than before. A few grams over HALF the weight of Echo Team CNCs IIRC

In army green!

Yeap, King BMX- 3/8" female axle (like Profile if you're familiar?)

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Sweet! Pretty sinister with the Trialtech forks Looks to be a promising build, glad you are enjoying the frame --- The frame isn't as heavy as you'd think. Floats around the 1.85kg mark from what I remember. It's only what 400g heavier than these tiny frames of today? But it's a stiff frame. Trialtech forks are comparatively heavy next to stuff like Echo SL and compy forks but their position at no.1 is justified by strength and stiffness that other forks these days are lacking in sacrifice for weight... It's nice to have some variety. Wouldn't it be a bit boring if everyone had the same super-light weight crazy high BB 2012 mod frames?

If by that you mean CLS's prototype Python from '04, it's sat around waiting to be repaired but my old '05 is next in line for riding. Nice Ali, you got some stickers finally A bit overkill though haha, I reckon removing them from the toptube, chainstays, and forks would look a lot cleaner. Right now it's tooo repetitively green but that's just my opinion so do what suits you Python stickers on the TT could work nicely Once pedals 'n rear wheel are upgraded, you've got it dialled!

Last pictures look fresh! Those parts seem to suit the rest of the build really well Are you in need of a new front rotor? If you've got something in mind that's cool, but in case you need a new rotor for cheap I've got an Echo TR rotor (180mm) that's brand new. Works flawlessly with Hope calipers! I'm happy to do it less than in my FS topic since you've bought a lot from me before Let me know if you're interested!

Ah I thought that chasing always removed material however little, 'cos of all the swarf that curls out? I remember watching it done twice on this frame, every now and again pour cutting fluid onto the tool. I would most likely be sending my frame off to Tarty for a bunch of workshop servicing, will be good to get their opinion on it too

I just bought back my first frame from when I was 14, so I'm stoked to have it again after 7 years! However, I'm planning on having the frame refined by facing and chasing various areas. The BB threads have been chased twice, and I'm wondering how many times can a BB shell's threads be chased before the material wears too thin or just collapse? Am also thinking possibly convert it into a Spanish BB? I've read somewhere before on this forum that people have managed to bore out Euro BBs to take Spanish bearings. Any info or advice would be much appreciated! Cheers!

Nice! I actually thought it was a 150x35! How does the 130x25 and the Pitbull geo feel in combination? Trying to figure out if 130x25 or 150x35 would be better for a frame with very similar geo. Both seem popular sizes for high bb stocks these days

The nicest one

Wow it looks as good as new! What size stem is that out of interest?

I had a few, 145x25 without any doubt.

05 it is

Thanks for the replies so far! Yeah I did a bit more research and found the geo is more or less that of the Inspired Element or first-gen Fourplays. I'm not too keen at all on the newer Ashton/DB stuff even if the price was mega low. Price-wise, I guess it's a little high because it's sold under a shop and it is completely brand new (yiip), I just happen to know one of the guys working there. Still, would say £200 be too high? Could see it as a cheaper comparison to the Inspired Element frame? Geos between ET24 and Element are the same, both have V-mounts, but the Element is £330 or so though I guess a much stronger design than the ET! I'm not really expecting any streety 24 frame to let me break a sidehop record, but if running brakes I'm hoping that it'd allow me to comfortably do both, even if edging more towards the streety side rather than trials. How do you find your Inspired 24"s for normal trials? Say if using the mega-short and mega-high bar/stem setup?

Hey, An old buddy of mine has a new Ashton ET24 frame for sale, price floating around £250. I've ridden predominantly Mod over the years but never had a 24" before. Just wondering if any of you out there have made the transition from Mod to streety 24 and if you ever felt the need to go back to 'normal' trials? About the frame itself, I've heard numerous reports from years ago that it's one downfall was that it tended to crack around certain areas. Would anyone remember where the weakspots were? Just would be good to know what this frame's limits are Just ideas for now but if the ET really is a great frame then would be an ideal relatively cheap way to get into 24"! Any info or advice would be appreciated Thanks!

1800g or so from the last one i had

http://profileracing.com/products_mtb.php I did a little research for you, haha, maybe this'll work? I know Profile hubs can take a 3/8" female axle which functions the same as a 10mm on a trials bike, and it seems they make disc mounted shells too so you could give Profile Europe a shout to see if they can either get one in for you or construct one together from individual pieces (which is how Profile operates in Florida at least) Might be a tad heavier than usual trials disc hubs but this might be what you're after?

I had all three separately: Black Mumba, '04 Python, and the prototype 04/05 hybrid that CLS tested (Greetings's pic) Both 04 Pythons had the "ZOO!" logo CNC'd into the chainstay yokes, the triangular CNC'd plate above the mounts had 2 square holes. The production '04 had bashplate mounts just like the Black Mumba, CLS's proto 04 doesn't as it was I guess a guinea pig to see if the nature of horizontal chain tensioning could suffice with just a bashring. That's why on 05, 06, 07 Pythons and the 06 Gu Typhoon they all had that fat horizontal tab sat below the driveside yoke; to prevent chain crush/overstretch when bashed. That frame is a Black Mumba resprayed, the much shorter weld joining the top/down/head tubes gives it away. Black Mumba, was however, one of the most poor quality frames I ever had. Came with a giant crack on one of the dropout welds, and it was just a sloppy mess all over throughout the construction. Returned and refunded within 1 day! Hope this clears things up!

Ali speaks the truth! Hold is more important than bite if you had to lean for one. -Clean the rim with some kind of degreaser: e.g. warm water with fairy liquid mixed, or if you want to spend money: some citrus degreaser from any bike store -Re-setup the pads so they're 100% square. Tartybikes have a pretty good video guide on their site. -If all else fails, just re-grind the rim carefully and rebleed the brake 'til there's no air bubbles anywhere in the line. Usually a decent set of pads performing disappointingly is due to its surrounding parts as mentioned above. ^I'd go for these anyday over ditching a good booster Hope this helps!

Zhi/Bionic are in Echo's eyes a bit of a thorn. Seems for a lot of shops in China and internationally you can either stock Yao Zhi's or Deng's. The competition between the two is pretty severe within China at least.

Try out some double butted spokes, should absorb more shock away from concentrating it into the hub flange. Profile's sister brand Madera has an internally identical rear hub (V2 not the sketchy Dexter V1) so maybe if you could swap out the hubshell for one of the Madera shells that might be of benefit too.

There's a TP 26" on this forum with a Conti DK on Atomz 47mm rim. The 06-08 Deng CNC machined 1-piece BB/chainstay yoke on all his high end stock frames seem to take wide tyres fine!

Mod: Almost 100% of the time- 18:12 Stock: 18:15 or 18:16

Tuesday morning Let me know how the bar/stem situation goes!