Sponge

Oh My God. My old Python! and those cranks! Enjoy it!

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Yeshy, I should be coming. But I need my magura clamps badly, a friend of mine promised to give them to some rider last London ride (I asked, and he doesn't even know this guy's name, number, or anything). Chhhriisstt. Mmm, I'll need to find out through Nick Manning just who this rider is. Grrrrr. Other than that, I hope to get a good day's worth of filming done with Joe's camera. Oh, and yeah, provided I can make it, I'll bring the Czar booster . (fingers crossed I get MY magura mounts back )

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Imagine what normal passers-by must be thinking! "wtf..., the local council has gone mental" Haha!

That was amazing. To be honest, those were all BMX flatland tricks, but huge heads up to them for doing it on normal bikes! Those nose manuals standing on the front axle were Hangfives whilst the weird wheelie sitting on the handlebar is a Pedal Deathtruck.

Tried that, but it doesn't work But yeah, Deonn h, squince, or anyone who has Zhi videos 6-10, could you please upload it onto tv.isg or something similarly fast and give us the link to them?

Dude.... Props to you for having a bike that isn't a paintbomb. I simply can not stand coloured cranks combined with coloured handlebars and rims, bashrings, and so on. I think it's very nice to be honest . A black stem would look nicer, but that silver one gives it a clean look. More special than those crappy coloured bikes anyway... errggh cringe. What next.... coloured ball bearings? Hmm, me thinks that Deng will go that way. Besides, he is after all in belief that 'stocks are the future for trials' and that mods will run into non-existance over at the House of Deng in the future.

Fairly nice update there, Mark! It is quite inspiring to see Bram shredding it on his KHE RIP brakeless, mmm, ideas ideas.. nah, most of it wouldn't work on a pegless street bmx with a slammed seat! Hmm, always could find a few flat moves that are possible with my setup. :wink2: On the subject of Style 43 stickers Joe, I've seen tons of them too! I believe that one of the Style 43 people live around that area, I *think* Mark told me it was James Smith, but I'm not 100%.

Curiosity: Does anyone here actually run chain tugs on their frame? Still debating whether to run them or not. Mind, I am pegless..

I remember that frame! and those cranks!

Wow that's a nice bike. You're very lucky! On another note, is that the 2007 Echo Team stem with the geometry 160x25? (Same as Zoo! mod stem in other words?) Or is it the 2006-and-previous Echo Team stem with the geometry 145x40? Just wondering, because I've got a Zoo mod stem lying around, and seeing if ANYONE actually likes the feel of its geometry 160x25?

Callum, I might have a few other good theories. But first of all, I can not stress how important it is not to ride the bike when the BB is loose. It's better in the long run to not ride the bike and find a solution, than to waste more time in future trying to repair the frame after having left the BB loose and riding it. First of all, if you've cleaned out the copper grease, and it still has this problem, then look into these: The thing is, sometimes tolerances are 'not 100% correct' (if that even makes sense!) and components when manufactured can be 0.1mm bigger or smaller than what they are labelled as. This is a problem seen on some pedals and cranks, or for seatposts and frame's seattubes. If one is slightly slightly larger than it should be and the other product is slightly smaller than it should be... it means a looser fit than normal. This is common everywhere in the world. Not every item is 100% what they are labelled as. Thus: 1. Buy a new bottom bracket, brand new, with perfect threads. (your current BB cartridge body might be literally 0.1mm smaller than it ideally should be, which is sometimes the case on ALL products throughout the world) 2. Get the frame tapped/the threads 'cleaned'. Look at the TartyBikes page and go to 'workshop'. Have a look at their BB thread tapping, and it is a safe procedure that makes 100% sure that the threads themselves are perfect. Sometimes a bit of lacquer or the tiniest bit of excess material from manufacturing can upset the way in which threads do their work. Tapping isn't cutting up the threads like hell, it is simply just 'cleaning it up' and getting rid of excess material that might interfere. ^Both are very very safe options and is worth looking into. Try both, and if they don't work together (at which point I would be surprised!). Then opt for a bit of blue loctite on the threads... not much, but little enough to keep it locked in and at the same time you don't want too much that'll seize the BB in almost permanently. But as I say, try Option 1 first, if that doesn't work, then go for Option 2. And then finally, try the loctite method. IMPORTANTLY: throughout your entire procedures etc.. you should try and use copper grease because it is simply the only grease that is good for threads as it is an anti-seize compound. I use it because it lets the BB screw in smoothly and it greatly helps prevent any thread damage or stripping. But tighten the BB to a moderate degree, and NEVER EVER do it too tight. "Just about tight" is good enough . I hope your problem is solved fast! EDIT: Show us a picture of the bashring. I think it can only be causing your problem IF the bashring itself (or any other part of your crank for that matter) is rubbing or touching against the bottom bracket's outer cups. I had this problem ages ago when my ACS Claws' removal tabs were scraping against my BB cup, so it unscrewed slowly but surely, because the movement of the cranks from pedalling will cause the cups to move a little as it is scraping against the BB cup.

I'm not sold on these frames, I feel it'll break as easily as the originals. But it looks good, so long as you're happy with it!

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If I remember correctly, I put a hell of a lot copper grease in the shell, for a good reason. But, make sure to clean out the threads a bit, leaving a thinner layer of copper grease inside. See if this helps: 1. Take out the BB 2. Wipe down thick grease in the frame shell 3. screw in the main cartridge of the BB halfway 4. screw the left cup halfway in 5 tighten the main cartridge of the BB fully in 6. ^do the same for the left cup. Hopefully it should stay tight like that, but as Inur said.. DO NOT ride it if the BB is loose, that is just asking for trouble.

Don't mean to be a kill joy, but, Monsterboy frames have been seen to crack. I think *somewhere* either on this forum or OTN, I definitely saw a cracked one. Ah well, 6061 alloy for you... On a more positive note: Nice bike

I really don't like steel inserts on alu cranks... Honestly, I'd rather have aluminium threads, strip them, and then get them helicoiled or retapped.. I've got these problems on my Koxx-One cranks. But, question time! After having sorted out a great deal of things... and my HoldFast coming in a week or two, I need to decide on which bars to get for it... Here are my options: Odyssey Skim Milk Mutiny Captain Colony Unlucky 13 Guettler Odyssey is 41 Thermal, and has a lifetime warranty, nice one. Whereas the Colonys and Captains are 4130 and don't feature lifetime warranties. Still, I am stuck between the 3 of them, and can't quite decide. I am totally unclear about the rise and backsweep of each bar, and what kind of an effect this really has on the feel of the bike. Judging from trials, bigger rise means easier to pull up, generally speaking... but how about backsweep? As for tyres it's either Odyssey Aitkens or Odyssey Plyte Paths... Bearing in mind I am predominantly a street rider. Hmm....

Yeah, I'm selling a pair of Echo Lite forks in brushed silver... can run maguras with it, and used extremely lightly, and not for many rides at all! Do you want to buy it? If so, £40 posted.. Remember, it's virtually brand new and has a brand new starnut inside it! Not even cable wear marks on it!