Sponge

So is virtually every single other aluminium frame on the market, even if it's 'owned' by a European country of some sort.

Sounds like a good idea first impressions. So it's basically already some sort of M6 bolt with a hexagonal head, with a hole through it already? Say I want to tap to M5, and the hole in the centre is only 3mm or so.... Do i definitely have to drill it out wider? Considering it's hardened steel probably. Or can an M5 tap really cut well and sharply into a slightly small hole?

ah fair enough, thanks guys. As for helicoiling itself, would inserting it into M6 work? Say, I loctited it, to tighten the space up? Or does the helicoil work by expanding/retracting like spring inside the alu?

Thanks very much Steve! that was a lot of help. The Keensert idea is the last resort I suppose. As for helicoiling itself, I think someone else earlier above mentioned how they managed to fit an M6 bolt into a tapped mount (using the tap included in M5 helicoil kits), surely does this mean that M6 is in some way or form compatible? Perhaps a bit of blue loctite to fill any gaps? Would that work? ^Say that fails and the helicoil pulls out, I could always go to the option of M8--> M5 afterwards, right? If anyone can find a smaller Keensert, like M7--->M5, or even M6--->M5, i'd greatly greatly appreciate it . So much so, I'll send out a pair of brand new Zoo pads to anyone who does EDIT: just a quick question for Luke Rainbird, how much material was there once you drilled out and tapped to M8? Which frames were they too? Also, do you think loctiting/studlocking the Keensert in is a good idea?

I think the point he was making was that the tap might be M6 instead of M5.5 or whatever? since... an M6 bolt fit, according to him? I've got a few ideas two or three posts up, so please if anyone could correct me/tell me if it's workable/impossible, then tell me. Cheers

Almost every year from 2003 up till 2008, all of the frames seem to be beefing up gradually. Until now. Even the 2005 Echo Pure (with seat) looks more sturdy than the current control. Same goes for the new 'Team'... compare to it to previous years' Teams... it's even more slimmed down than these last years' Lites! It is a big step into the light-zone. Notice how almost every CNC'd bit is drilled out in some way or form, and how there is a distinct lack of in-built boosters which was becoming a trend on Deng bikes. I don't mind it, but gosh, it's a bit overkill on the light front?

Newbish question, but would it not work if i just epoxy resin'd or loctited/studlocked the helicoil inside the frame's holes? Or do helicoils work by expanding/unravelling inside the original alu threads? if not, surely there must be other types of thread repair, like a simple solid M6 to M5 conversion thread piece... kinda like a modified grub screw if you get me?

It was pre-tapped to M6 by the previous owner. Surely it is possible still? I mean, how a helicoil works is that you get a tap included in the kit, which is designed to cut M6 threads into the balded/stripped hole (which was formerly filled with M5 threads), and then the helicoil screws in with use of the tool? Apparently having it tapped to M6 already, makes the helicoiling a lot easier since the tapping job is already sorted? Unless i've got something horribly wrong... Feel free to correct me!

'Afternoon guys, just curious about the whole business of helicoiling. I've never done it before but looks like I'll need to. I searched previous threads on it, and they all offer the very vague amount of information. I want to get it right the first time around so as to not regret it in future. Perfectionism has its benefits you know Anyways, to the point: 1. Mounts already tapped to M6, so all I need to do is screw the coil in with the tool right? I suppose it's a tight fit? 2. Any loctite necessary for the coil? Afterall... it's purpose is to stay in, but perhaps loctiting is a worthy extra safety measure? I have heard of helicoils pulling out you see.... 3. What length coils do you use? I look on the internet and all the M5 ones are mostly 0.8cm, or 8mm. Which apparently is a little short to fit fully into the 4 bolt mounts. I've heard whispers that something like M5x10mm is the most ideal? I'm basically after whatever length fully inserts in, without any 'wiggle room' ontop or below. I'm sure other people'd find this kind of specific info useful if ever they need coiling. Since the countless other topics seem to somehow miss these out! Thanks !

Porco dio Vaaaaaa.. ffanculo Something like this hasn't really ever happened to me, except when hitting your head hard against the ground from a failed '____'. I haven't really read the other posts other than the first one, but did you get this problem diagnosed or talked about with by a doctor? I'm interested to see why exactly the body reacts in such a way. Just a curious note, where is Molvena in Italia exactly? It's just that I've got two good friends who come from Firenze and Bari. Just curious

They are far easier to do chilled out mess around 'fly about' riding. I mean, they are very very flickable generally, compared to 26". But for that, you lack leverage and power in a lot of cases. Depends entirely on your personal technique and geometry of bike set up. Esp. bar and stem. (and frame of course). But since, comparatively you are lower to the ground, psycologically it might be harder to get up onto bigger walls for moves that aren't called sidehops. Try a friend's one out and see if i you like

Yeah that is true about the angled sidewalls. It's all made by Jetset I believe? Onza Hog, Kris Holm, Viz, Try-All just to name a few..

Brushed sidewalls, with usual anodizing elsewhere. They used to do this standard on their rims and now choose to keep anodizing on the sidewalls because: a. It looks neater with DD b. anodized surface tends to work better as a braking surface than bruhed c. People are going to grind it off anyway, so why waste time and money on a process that people won't properly 'appreciate' or utilize? It's nothing special, just a dirty silvery sidewall with brush marks along it. Not too spectacular a braking surface.

No better than chavs.. Well done, you really are rad, you studs.

I'd let the experienced riders' credibility do the talking

Perhaps the best reason for using a booster, is to stop your frame from cracking at the mounts due to flex. Even if your frame has an in-built booster.

Awesome sidehop in the first picture! Pretty good stuff all round Read your PM inbox please

Ah ok thanks, I'm thinking of going to a +10mm Coust. Specifically how did they handle? OK for bunnys/manuals? Sluggish? Oh and how do they handle with beatings/dentings? The V1s were pretty easily crushable, how did your +10 fair? Cheers

Sorry to hijack, but Would someone please dive into a bit of detail for me, explaining the major differences between a super low BB like +10 and a high one like +60? I know all the basic theory, I hope, but maybe some up-to-date revision would help. I would like my bike to be able to pull up to manual/bunny comfortably... something which my +60mm Typhoon won't allow. Would backwheel control feel much worse on a +10? how about other stuff like gaps, upping, sidehops? and general manouvreability? Would +10mm feel heavy and sluggish to trundle about on natural? Thanks in advance

Yeah I'm also wondering about the benefits of going from +60mm to +10mm. Aside from backwheel comfort, how'd other things fare? Would a +10mm feel too 'sluggish' to manouevre around? Last thing I'd want is a bike that feels like a truck.

Frustrating problem on a mod. My pet hate about horizontal dropouts! It's usually easily fixable. Some axles/nuts/bolts types will have different clamping forces to others, standard hollow axle bolts aren't very strong at gripping, whereas big beefy ones like Profile and King grip very well. Even so, there is nothing better to solving it than having some sort of tensioner on there like chaintugs or snail cams. Since these act as a barrier against the wheel moving forward totally.

Yeah sure does seem like it! What can be done for off-set wheels? I could take it to a shop or have some friends look at it. Is it just a case of a bit of lateral retruing? Or is it a bit more complex?

Yeah that's the basic theory, but it seems to not work too well for some reason. Is there a proper 'dishing' method, to totally shift the alignment of the wheel? An Adam Read or OBM answer would probably provide all that needs to be known! , but I'm also confident that this'll come in handy for others out there

Thanks for all the help! The BB7 guide is really useful. Very easy to setup brake! But here's problem no.2: Wheel alignment. Basically, I set it up so the hub is straight as possible in the frame. But this means that the rim is offset to the right hand side all the way through. Is this just bad 'dishing'? So yeah, it's a new wheel, factory-built, but when I line the hub up straight in the dropouts to get the best disc alignment, the problem is that the tyre scuffs the right stays. I tried tightening/loosening certain spokes in the rubbing areas, but it really doesn't seem to do much? Maybe there's a method to totally shift a wheel? Right now it entirely leans to much to one side. Any help'd be great

I'm really impressed by what Deng's done, and I'm sure many people will still slate him, but it would be totally ignorant to not say that he has revolutionised much of the trials we enjoy today. Some of his components here and there weren't too impressive, namely his first year (2006) of coloured wide rims which failed horribly. Don't expect the bearing quality to be on par with the likes of King, but certainly the solid aluminium components are very respectable. The quality is surprisingly good still, i believe, for most parts. As for frames, looking at the CNC pictures, this coming season marks a new era for Deng frames. They are headed in the direction of Koxx-esque frames it seems, and this is a great advance technologically (e.g. super CNC'd dropouts, drilled out gussets here and there, double butted here and there etc.. I'm sure these new frames will look far far different from what previous years' frames have been like. Look at how Koxx's mod XTP (2005/2006, the silver one) has evolved... it was a simple design with a simple look that rode well, which Deng's frames of old were like. Now the current 07/08 XTP has been catapulted way ahead technologically and is in many ways 'ahead' of other brands' frames. I mean, just look at the thing! Coloured here and there with impressive water-printed graphics and very advanced dropouts and machined out areas here and there, drilled out here and there, with double and triple butted here and there. Me personally, I loved the simplicity of many of Deng's old frames, and I'm sure many others out there would agree. The Deng frames of 2003-2008 were usually simplish, sleek, strong, with simple colouring... I believe these were in the same 'style' of frame-mould as the old Koxx Levelboss and XTP mods of yesteryear. Now It looks like Deng's upgrading his roster into something that will near-enough fit the 'style' of frame-mould as the new Koxx Hydroxxs and XTPs. Personally, i love what's been done about many components. The ti bolts thing is a nice touch! The rims look great. I wonder what he'll do for the other brands?