Sponge

Was it dented much on the downtube by any chance? This may sound rather narrow, but all the frames that have cracked on a random middle spot on the downtube seem to be of 7000 series aluminium. Woodstocks being one example. It's probably just a case of overly-thin tubing or manufacturing defect; but I've had a fair few 2nd/3rd/4th hand frames that have been totally smashed and raped on the downtube and chainstays, yet no local weakspots seem to be forming?

I'd always want to use a booster, even if just to save the frame from ever cracking at the mounts. Just means one place less to worry about! But then again, if I'm going to use a booster, may as well use the best and stiffest that'll do its job best? I don't really approve of 2-bolt boosters at all. Just get a super-stiff 4-bolt one, which has a more secure attachment to the brake mounts incase someone is to sit on the booster or step on it. Heatsink or Echo Control booster'd be good.

Ciao Saretta, nice to see that you're on board! I've actually got two very good friends from Italy. Francesco and Vito, from Firenze and Bari. But we call Francesco by either Franco or Ciccio because he's a bit of a Mafioso... haha. How did you get into trials?

It would be easy; but I specifically need 45mm long ones, for a booster. I purposefully choose to run a booster and deem it wise for such an old frame. I'd rather not let it die from something petty like cracked mounts or similar.

Ok, so I've been searching around and the only sorta chain store that might stock it is Homebase. I am actually rather shocked at how hard it is to find a place that stocks bolts. I can always order from Stagonset, yes, but I need it for the weekend ideally and they don't deliver fast at all... So I'm willing to scout around central London all over to source out some bolts. There must be somewhere that specially stocks? I haven't got Yellow Pages on me unfortunately as I'm at boarding school at the minute; but if anyone knows for sure if any places in London have plenty of bolt types, then please let me know! I'm after M6x45mm (length)

Jagwires any good? I'm talking about the carbon-fibre looking coated ones. Specifically on BB7s?

I'll look into that! Do B&Q by any chance stock a lot of allen head bolts? I'll be needing some M6x45mm bolts; and i know online mail order places like Stagonset have them; but I'd like to get some on saturday. But yeah, if B&Q don't have them; what kinds of chain stores would?

Had an idea; how about get an M6 grub screw...and loctite it in (with whatever's most powerful and drill the hexagon insert to a 5mm circle, and then tap it? Since a hole is already sorta there, because it's a grub screw, that'd save me a lot of work? Theoretically could I actually just try tapping into that hex hole? so it'll just cut and cut it into shape?

Yeah the V-brake spacer thing could work. Am i right in thinking that these concave and convex spacers are the same things that are used to space the pads on a V-brake? These are also on Avid mechanical brakes' caliper IS-Post adaptor right? Drilling out is an idea, as I have some; but the problem would be that it might get so thing that it crumples upon being bolted down

Righteo, I'll stick with M6 for the time being unless some mircale solution pops up! I have to run a booster with my current frame as it is rather old; and I don't want premature frame death, not to mention a stiff brake is nice. So I'll need to drill out bits and bobs to suit M6. I can source out everything, but except for one thing: The bolt spacers! They are about a centimetre or so long, but does anyone know where I can get such types of things online with a 6mm hole? I could alternatively use multiple 6mm washers, but it's more convenient just to use a long spacer. So yeah, if you know anywhere that might sell such a thing, then do let me know! Thanks

Cool, but as for the actual helicoiling idea; i might take the gamble... since I am not clear on whether my threads were tapped to M6 or M5.5 (whatever the thread size on the tap supplied on helicoil kits). CLS did it, but hasn't really answered back. So if by luck he did it to M5.5, then I can helicoil, but say it is M6, then would helicoiling simply fail altogether?

Doubting that'd work since there will be so little material. But, yeah is the risk worth it? m6-->m5?

Could save weight for free by squaring out the holes of front and rear rims, with rounded corners. Not to mention, other cutting/drilling/filing methods that are relatively safe too? Drilled out front sidewalls for disc brake setups up front. Cutting nobbles off tyres too. I'm sure if all of these were done, together they would save a fair bit of weight. Also, modding bashring into a halfring too

For the time being I'm running what appears to be M6; but I would still like to convert to M5; since I want to run a booster; and it'd be a pain the ass to drill everything out. Is there any major harm in trying to insert an M5 helicoil into my thread? The previous owner isn't sure if he tapped it out to M6 or M5.5 (or whatever taps get supplied with helicoil kits); so before doing so, what risks should I acknowledge and is the risk of thread stripping high if I try putting an M5 coil in? and at what point will I be able to tell for sure if the actual thread was tapped to M6 or M5.5? Too-loose fitting helicoil? The tightness of brake clamps need not be so high; so could I get away with it even if it were really M6 coiled to M5?

Ahh, I know Tom Howe, he used to live in Kingston a year or so back, with me, Tim, Joe and others. Isn't Ben Moore his cousin too? I always believed the 03s to be the ones with the side gussets near the headtube. It was the very first incarnation of the Pitbull that came out near the time of the Coustellier St. Blaise. The actual 04 Pitbull doesn't have the kink in the toptube/downtube join area either.

The side-gusset on the toptube-downtube weld explains it all. Plus, the slightly yellowy Zoo sticker. 04s came with bright grass green Zoo stickers as current, and the redundant gusset (quote Deng) was removed. Exact model you see CLS riding in his Pitbull November vid Geeky isn't it, haha, but may as well share the knowledge

Ok so, episode 4's come and gone, and it was good! What are your theories on the little boy Noah, who is supposedly Gabriel's son? I have a strong feeling he is Noah Bennett but someone either cloned him or had powers to make him regress back to a child; that kid looks 5/6ish and the future is only 4 years ahead of the present time, so that's not nearly enough time for Sylar to sire a child that grown up. I bet it's no coincidence that he now lives in the Costa Verde Bennett house even with Mr. Muggles... And how to do you think Sylar turned good from the point he is at now in the present time? Also, what's up with Angela Petrelli wanting Adam Monroe back up? Last point: Peter Petrelli and Gilles Coustellier are the same people!

The Trialtech Race stem has good geometry. It's based on the original T-Master stem by Onza, which was freaking huge.... but a machine for bunnyhopping with. It did actually make everything feel nicer... including gaps and sidehops since the bike lifted so much easier. I'm not a fan of low stems, and the whole idea of 'low stem for TGS' is all hype and provides no real extra benefit. High stems= more comfortable cycling position in most cases, easier to lift front wheel meaning you can play about with BMX style moves WAY more easily, comfier bunnyhopping and backwheeling, as well as benefits to gapping and sidehops since the front end just soars up so easier.. which helped me get to grips with pinch-gapping a lot more. Low stem's advantages? A mere 10-20g of weight shaved? Pretty much about it. Not being able to pull up into bunnyhop or manual comfortably is something which makes me dislike low stems greatly. Not to mention hunched-back ness and more weight concentrated on the wrists.

I fear a massive stress riser appearing somewhere on the stem, considering the breathing holes are in line with the end of the steerer

It seems quite well designed from the outset. The big holes are not parallel to eachother on the inner and outer walls, but more like a criss-cross zig-zaggy pattern, so there isn't the problem of cracking the little joints of rim between each hole like there is on today's generic drilled rims.

Deng's already ceased manufacture of the Freetrials Czar frame, but from what he's done with seatclamps, I'm more than certain that he'd back it up with a variety of streety frames! Perhaps we might see the return of the real Pure. Not the flimsy cheap 6061 junk that was out from 2006 'til now. Ultra 6 tubing, 'rectangular' Control downtube, and proper seatpost... perfect! To be honest, I kinda miss the old meaty Deng stuff that was made. The Echo Teams of past were freaking burly things, the 07 one especially so. 2004 Pythons were extremely durable, even though their design was fairly simple, they lasted longer than 2005 and 2006 ones did. Old Controls were also famous for their super high strength, great geo, and famous rectangular-ish downtube. Now they are even slimmer than the current Pures and Lites.... they might as well release the new 09 frames as those names... since when people think of 'Team' and 'Control'... they think 'elite, burly, tough, chunky, take bucket loads of abuse without breaking'. I also get the impression that Deng's no longer going to produce components under his sister brand names anymore. There's little point apart from aesthetics really. But it was nice whilst it lasted... If I look from Deng's perspective, he is kinda forced to produce super light stuff these days, to be able to sell his products... it's really a demand-driven thing. People these days seem to refuse to buy things that are strong if they weigh 50-100g more than a drilled version. Fair enough in that sense, but also respect to him for producing a TR and Urban line too... as well as being innovative and producing 2 alternative rim brakes, which are probably going to work OK. Despite what a lot of narrow-minded and fascist TFers think, Deng's manufacturing quality is actually pretty good. I'd whole-heartedly trust it on par with 'American-handmade blah blah' ... except for bearing-related stuff of course (but you can always just get Japanese replacements for whatever hub/headset...) The release of Echo rim brakes also is a great service to China's own riders, who have trouble affording imported goods from the west. Sure, domestically produced goods like Zhi and Deng are cheap and affordable for them (since there's no tariff and the trade price is very low as it's a Chinese firm), but they find it so hard to buy Magura HS33s over there... it's rare and expensive. So Deng is doing a good thing by giving them access to a rim brake they can more easily afford. (I know Denguras are expensive in UK, but in China I bet that they are cheaper than imported Maguras) Only criticism right now is geometry-wise. I understand why he makes changes in terms of materials, design, shape, etc. but geometry changes don't affect cost that much? In the long run, having more popular geo is a finer investment. Produce 2 Pythons I say, one as the current one, and another as a more traditional Python with long wheelbase etc... and change the headangle. He could also try shortening the rake of the forks too? Why not?

To the topic starter and that chappy riding all over that Maserati.. Karma.

What are the benefits of a 71d headangle? Easier to ride down a slope without flipping over?.. and not endoing-to-death as easily? You can kinda counter that already by having a high front end Front wheel-wise, it seems like a major drawback. Hopefully it'll have positive outcomes on the rest of the feel. It's alright, I still much prefer it to the look of the 07 Python. Also do remember, the paper measurements aren't final.... When i had a '1005' short Python 2005, the wheelbase was actually about 1030mm and stays about 370 rather than the 362 it was said to be... and also for the long Pythons i've ridden the geo was more like 1060mm and 380mm everytime, rather than 1045 and 375... I would not be surprised one bit if someone bought this Python and measured its wheelbase at 1030-1040, with stays reaching around 370mm.

It actually looks pretty nice, compared to the 07 Python! But the 06 was the pinnacle of aesthetic pleasure for the Python... Now, I don't get why he changed the geo? The Python's uniqueness and popularity lay a lot on its famously long geo, now it's pretty bland?... with a horrid 71 degree head angle to boot... Short... supppper short. Well, it reminds me a bit of the geo on my old 05 Yao Zhi Python.. which was 1005 and 362mm. That wasn't all that bad. But it's a bit of a letdown to provide ONLY a short geo.... as i'm sure an additional long option'd prove to be popular.