Sponge
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yep, done that, but no avail..
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Hey there, EDIT: thanks guys, i realised all it took was a bit of OOMPH to properly shove the pads into position. Before they just sat in there with the spring, not really properly seated on their 'seats'. Check my third post in this topic, I've got a new issue, maybe you could help? Cheers!
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and because they had a major design flaw
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For those wondering where the B-Pitbull got its scars from, here you go: CLICK ME and so on so on so on. Man, just watching all those old Zoo vids and 04 CLS clips just makes me wonder how a heap of aluminium can just take such a beating for so long and still refuse to quit? Yet you see all the modern frames just diving for the grave within 7 months? Pretty amazing stuff Gratz mi Deng!
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I have yet to test it out, as I'm not much of a 'basher'. But, I think it'll be fine; the bottom is protected enough, and with a bit of chain slack, it's no prob. I just found that it spun a bit when the Tensile tightened further onto the crankarm whilst pedalling
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Yep that's fine. Only trying to help. If you're slack about it and generally take it as a laugh, then ok, I won't stop you from getting whatever you want to get. And as JT said, it's hard to stick to, that's very true. Just don't waste your money, that's my advice. I do like to go into detail, but if vast knowledge and specific details is not what you remotely care about in a hobby then I pity the fool. All up to you. Just don't be a stereotypical Essex plonker about it! Enjoy it, and treat it more seriously than 'just a laugh' because in unicycling, you get NOWHERE if you don't take it seriously, it's tough tough sport. Gratz... and Ciao.
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That's a decent spec uni. But.... 2007 kris holm frame... but it's been stripped and they are quite fragile frames if you use them for trials a lot. Odyssey Cielencki pedals... horrible horrible heavy pedals for unicycling; not good at all. Small pins, so there's little grip for shoes and also when you do sidehops-to-pedal to get up higher obstacles Koxx Orange bud Camo saddle- same spec as the standard red saddle on the normal Koxx Devil, but it's just too damn fat for any decent seat-out trials. Maxxis CC tyre- really really not recommended for unicycle trials. Trust me. You want something more stable like Try-All. Kris Holm ISIS hub- that one there will have bent flanges from spoke pressure on rim. Guaranteed. It's a major fault on all of these steel ISIS hubs. But it's a nice uni. I'll be selling mine at 220 pounds too, you can collect from me in London if you wish. Complete unicycle with frame I'll let your forum reputation speak for itself, JT. Firstly, buying a cheap square tapered unicycle is a very very bad idea. You wouldn't know as you don't do unicycle trials and even if your friends did, you wouldn't know much still unless you did it yourself. Square taper cranks and hubs bend within weeks of trials unicycling. There is A LOT more pressure on componentry in unicycling than in biketrials.. for obvious reasons. These cheaper ones are totally un-upgradeable; and aren't compatible with higher end parts. It'd be a total waste o 125 or however much pounds. Really. A total waste. And once you're done riding it and you want something better... you will find it VERY hard to re-sell because no one will want it. It's that bad.
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Two unicycle brands you should be looking at, and none others... because they are very very flawed. I can go into details why if you'd like... (Onza have terrible truly terrible frames for example... which have too wide crowns, are heavy, and kill your shins on sidehops; at the same time they have open-ended tubing covered by a plastic cap... not good) Monty, Onza, Qu-Ax, Nimbus... all have major *major* flaws with them and not worth buying if you want to buy a complete unicycle... only these two brands should be considered. Koxx and Kris Holm. KOXX The Devil series is what you'll be looking at from koxx... and these retail a shade under 300. But for a reason. Pros: decent and good value for money excellent tyre nice solid cranks, but a bit heavy drilled rim- these are 36h ones, and get smashed very easily in unicycle trials. The joints of metal between the holes are very thin on 36h rims and snap piece by piece. Cons: incredibly heavy, weak small bearings due to thick ISIS-like spindle fat saddle, very very uncomfortable for an advanced method of sidehopping when you hold the saddle 'seat-out' (i.e. seat in front of you, and one hand gripping on the side of the saddle.. so you can tuck on hops) -fragile pedals Kris Holm- Excellent trials unicycle, better than Koxx Devils by a way, but expensive! -Pros- lightweight aluminium frame (but can tend to snap after a few months from the stress of trials unicycling) Nice strong ISIS cranks, but again, Super super heavy. (No, really, it is that heavy) Kris Holm saddle- excellent for trials and street (the most popular saddle for riders) Cons- Maxxis Creepy Crawler... not so good for unicycle trials; as the sidewalls are very thin and pinch punctures are even more common than in biketrials. Also the sidewalls can 'slip', because they are so thin, during a very angled preload for a big gap or sidehop; and this can be very dangerous. This is why Try-All tyres are excellent for uni... because of thick sidewalls - Expensive -weak hub flanges (ISIS hubs in uni, are steel all-over, and the flanges bend over time naturally... from spoke pressure... not ideal) -thin and fragile bearings due to super thick ISIS axle (often needs replacing, same for Koxx's hubs and bearings) If you have money, then go for Kris Holm. It's a great brand and owned by the pioneer of unicycling, Kris Holm. He's a truly awesome guy. On the other hand, if you want to buy my parts, then i'd be more than happy to sell it to you; as the parts were each specially chosen and picked to create the absolute best. Sadly, I don't really ride unicycle trials anymore and don't need them . Gutted. Profile hubs and cranks are great because they are very very light; and the bearings are much stronger than on ISIS unicycle hubs, since Profile's outer axle diameter is smaller; but is thicker internally. So it's extremely strong; whilst maintaining tough smooth bearings for years; unlike ISIS.. as the bearings are just too small. At the same time, on Profiles, you get a lifetime warranty... and these cranks are new on mine. Everything is easily servicable and you can get replacement parts easily; the bearings can be pulled off the axle very very simple on Profiles since the axle isn't tapered like ISIS. On ISIS, once you have broken bearings you need a special and slightly expensive bearing puller tool to remove it from the axle since it's tapered. I hope this makes unicycle technology clearer! TIP:! Thought JT listed unicycle.com.... please don't fall into the trap of buying a sub-200 pound unicycle that is standard and has a thin diameter seatpost (anything under 27.2mm diameter is weak in unicycling). These cheaper unicycles have terrible frames and have square taper axles and cranks... these break within weeks on a unicycle. You MUST use a splined crankset of some sort on a unicycle.. whether it be ISIS or Profile. Most of the saddles are also very fat on these cheaper unicycles including Koxx Devils and Nimbus unicycles... and it is very very uncomfortable if you want to use advanced trials techniques... like holding the saddle in front of you to be able to get higher sidehops.
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You won't find any truly decent trials unicycles under 300 complete. Mine was customized to a top spec; it's so hard for me to describe since you don't really know that much about unicycles yet. The cranks are BRAND NEW Profiles; the hub is hardly used and everything is in totally perfect condition. No creaking, smooth running bearings. -brand new Try-All seatpost -brand new Koxx seatclamp (red) -very little used Kris Holm slim saddle -Try-All tyre -DMR V8 pedals (black, smooth, all pins intact!) It's hardly been ridden and is a truly world-champion spec unicycle. All of that would retail over 600 if bought separately. Frames are very very cheap... they cost as little as 30/40 pounds for a Koxx Devil frame, and 80 for a Kris Holm frame. If you want I can sell you this, with a Koxx Devil frame for 220.
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Hey dude, There are a few good unis about, but I am currently selling mine, minus the frame. Click It's the absolute pinnacle you can get for a trials unicycle. Profile hub and crankset (new!) built onto a super tough Alex DX32 rim custom powdercoated by Bedford Unicycles in Canada... very rare and NO ONE in the UK owns a set of Profiles on unicycle.- the wheels retail nearly 400 brand new. I am also including a Try-All 19" tyre, and Koxx red seat clamp brand new... so ignore the Maxxis creepy crawler and scratched seatclamp there. Kris Holm saddle.. excellent condition, no rips, and super comfortable and slim for good seat-out hopping! The MOST popular saddle there is for street and trials unicyclists! With BRAND NEW Try-All seatpost ^All of that for 200 pounds only.. and since you are in Essex, we can easily meet up in London. All you'll need is a frame to complete it; I recommend the Kris Holm frame (2008 blue shortneck) or get a Koxx Devil frame which is very strong too.
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I just go B-Boying (Or "breakdancing" as it's commercially known as... wrong though) No other sport works out as many muscles in your body as this does. I feel the strength and balance benefits already; as well as better hand-eye coordination and reflexes. Better flexibility too.
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Hey, So, I've been this up for a few weeks now. Deciding that I can't really live without the leverage of a Python's stays! Hence swapping a spanking new GU ST 20" disc frame (from China! ) with Craig for this old legend. Had to get the headtube faced and reamed a bit for the headset to fit, and finally just yesterday my package of long bolts and washers came from Stagonset, so got the booster on... and it feels MUCH better! Stiffer, more responsive and it bites and grabs better. Just click the tab to view the full-res 100% jobbie, worth it! Spec for those interested: -Zoo! Python prototype (bashless 04) -Echo Team CNC fork -Echo disc wheels 07/08 rims and 08 hubs -Zoo! CNC ISIS cranks -GU halfring cut down by CLS -Tensile freewheel -Try-All rear tyre -Maxxis CC front tyre -Echo 4-bolt booster -Zoo! Original brake pads -Avid BB7 160mm front 08 with Hope Saw rotor -Trialtech 180x40 stem -Zoo! Original high-rise handlebars -Tensile headset -Magura HS33 2004 The anodized sidewalls are very very good for braking. Shockingly good especially with these Zoo! pads. But obviously when it gets wet... Feel free to leave any comments!
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I think it is absolutely crucial to see this from Zhi's point of view; and for the Chinese riders. "imported" goods are damn expensive in China, similar or sometimes even more than in the UK. So that's why they always ask me to bring them back Koxx and Monty stuff... since it's so so so difficult to source in China and it's damn expensive...same case for Maguras in China... hence why I respect Deng for producing a now-decent set of hydro rim brakes for Chinese riders.. It's expensive here at 135 pounds... but in China; i bet a TR or SL Dengura is much cheaper than an imported Magura (which is shockingly hard to get a hold of in China!) So I guess Chinese riders like the funky new designs they see on European comp brands' frames.. so Zhi created Bionic as a budget brand; and yes it copies (but wasn't ZOO! originally like that when Echo first introduced it?... e.g. the Lynx, first Pitbulls....). I don't really see copying as that bad anymore. It's not patented and they aren't breaking any laws; so it's OK. If it means people can get nice looking frames at a MUCH cheaper price and with Ultra 6 or whatever aluminium instead of the standard 7005 that Monty uses, then more power to them. It is easier for most Chinese riders to buy their home-brand stuff like Deng and Zhi; so to give the riders a more affordable opportunity to have frames like the Kamel-copy is a blessing. Heck, Andy's one of the people that's been blessed by this! haha... So what Zhi is doing is a good thing for his countrymen. Zhi is seen as 'the peoples' brand' in trials. It's very sorta patriotic and Zhi/Bionic's main aim is to help build up the Chinese trials scene and bring them more affordable frames with aesthetics borrowed off other frames. Not to mention, the Kamel and most trials frames are all manufactured from raw,... in China. Not trying to sound rude or prejudiced at all... but Spain is no where near as good as China at metal-working and in both quality and value for money. Hispanic culture is more suited to their tradition/roots (kinda why Monty still has very outdated designs on their frames...)and cultural stuff like music, dance, food, living the party. So... the manufacturers technically have the right to do what they want so long as they aren't voiding any patents since these frames are all *their* creation, literally. Without it, Monty stuff would be even worse in manufacturing quality and be 10x even MORE expensive if it was all made in Spain.... same goes for Koxx and France. Onza are kinda doing the same thing as Zhi/Bionic; well at least they have done for the past few years. .. by 'copying' popular designs and producing at a more affordable price for their countrymen (in this case, Brits). I see it as a positive thing. E.g. T-Pro for Levelboss... and Zona Zip for Python. T-Rex for Coustellier/Pitbull... T-Bird for Monty... I used to dislike this copying; but I realise now it's actually a positive thing. It will also drive the original designers to produce even further improved original products... since their designs are being bitten off. Competition tends to bring out the best ability and result. Bit off-topic... but that point needs to be made clear! Sorry if it sounds aggressive Inur . I don't bite. Sooo..... yes the bike looks great and clean! I like the simplicity of it and double disc is very nice to ride! Riding in the rain turns into a great day because of the discs! What are you gonna do about the freewheel though? , I did read you had some issues with it.
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Damn, I've been away for the last hour or so; and yes finally a rebleed worked! This time I just pumped the lever whilst pushing fluid with the syringe from the slave. So i'd then *slowly* let the lever retract back; whilst at the same time pushing on the syringe so any air trying to force its way back into the lever would be pumped out by the force of the oil coming from the syringe. Got all the air bubbles out this way. Happy happy; my bolts/washers finally came from Stagonset, so I can set the brake up too. Booster for the win, everything just feels so much more solid and responsive now! Gotta go to London now.. I'll have a play on the bike at midnight or something. Thanks everyone that helped!
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Righty, now I think that it's constantly air being trapped in the Lever. I tried rebleeding it 3 more times, and always the same result. A bit of 'squirm' as I hear the piston trying to push into the lever body, sounds like air bubbles popping.... and then after 2 or 3 mm of that... it finally engages and the fluid is pushed. It appears there are bubbles stuck somewhere right at the piston if that's possible? That's always the problem I'm getting. I basically need to sort out a totally air-free bleed; which so far, has proven to be harder than it seems. Should I pump the lever slowly during certain points of bleeding?
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Yeah, just went and tried a 1:30am rebleed; nothing special. Thing is, i don't want to use the TPA at all, since it shouldn't really be used and it damaging to the lever in the long run. However; that over-filling idea sounds promising. The main issue I have is when I pull the leverblade; there is 1 or 2mm of 'squirming' just before it mainly engages onto the fluid to push the pads out. I am tempted to think it is air bubbles; but I completely filled the brake until no air bubbles remained. Maguras are fiddly . By the way, for that over-filling idea, how big an allen key in each slave should I be wanting to wedge in? Too much is a bad thing; so I want to keep it just right .
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Hey, I've been about for a while; but only recently I did my first rebleed :$ with a hand by a friend. Partly 'cos my brake never ever needed rebleeding; until now of course; when i tried fitting a Monty splitter and decided to abandon ship... Well, we bled it nice and well; and it 'appears' to have no air bubbles in the system. However, when the TPA is fully wound in; the leverblade seems to wiggle about a lot doing absolutely nothing until a certain point i pull down and it engages the fluid and pushes the pads. Is this normal for a fully wound-in TPA? I try not to wind out the TPA; but I was advised to ever so slightly tighten the little grub screw at one end of the leverblade (right next to the TPA). Yeah, mine's an 04 lever just to clarify! So yeah, when I tighten that grub screw there, it kinda pushes the lever blade southwards a bit; so effectively the travel room for the blade whilst pulling with my finger, is effectively shortened since this little grub screw sets it pulled in a bit. This gets rid of the 'wiggle' I was talking about sorta; but it doesn't seem a perfectly safe method for long term. Since afterall... winding the TPA out is kinda damaging for the lever in the long run too... So yeah, especially for you '04 lever users, can you check if you get any useless wiggling about in your lever blade when the TPA is full wound in? and what do you do to get rid of that useless wiggle? Tighten the grub screw? or what? Maybe something went wrong with my bleed? Any help'd be appreciated! Thanks Sponge
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Aww man, this is quite sad for me. I remember the several London rides we went on together; always fun. And yeah the days of your Saracen (was it snapped during a london ride?) and Control, yesh. Two-man ultimate munch by the Tate loading bay will always be a memory, amongst the very best I have of trials! Hadn't seen you for a long time after that, since I got injured and had very little time for a good year and a bit. Then boom, first London ride back, in '08 and you've gotten so good on your Monty! Man, I wish we could've ridden a bit more! I do agree with the pettiness of the politics on this forum and generally on rides. The atmosphere isn't the same. When I first started out it was brilliant; always the usual bunch out (mostly the UrbanTrials bunch: Steve Morris, Tim Rodriguez, Andy Chai, Jimbo Lim, Matt Staples) and it was great fun. Days of Ben Cox, Joe Elding, when all of these guys were regulars, back in 05 it must've been. Even videos I hardly ever download anymore; whereas a few years ago I downloaded almost every single one because they were all so genuinely interesting and fun to watch; now it's pretty stale. Just a bunch of kids who improve super fast with the exact same style as each other, same dress sense and 'rudeboy' attitude. It just got very boring very quickly. The new video by Stephen Morris: Replaceable Head was the first sign of freshness on the vid front in recent months; as it just reminded me of the years before and the old school sorta value it brought with it. If you're up for a London ride anytime at al in future (which I'm sure you'll love to)l; give me a buzz and we'll do a bit of ultimate munch round 2! What was it we were talking about first time around?... how much pringles we could fit in our mouths in one go? haha... ahh those days. You will be missed, ... for now!! 'Cos I expect you to return sooner or later ! *virtual handshake, virtual manhug* muhuahhaha.. Peace! Sponge
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Copying? Doesn't matter. None of these levers are patented, so no worries. Copying just forces brands to step up their game by releasing better products. Without such heated competition, would trials components be at the high level they are at now? I like that RB lever anyway; it kinda reminds of the Fresh Products lever for some reason.
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Good point in the post above, but in all seriousness, it almost sounds like a pisstake, I mean surely people would be able to tell?
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Deng headsets tend to be very sturdy. I like them personally. I only advise people to install them properly. Wacking it with a hammer/mallet will guarandamnteed cripple the bearings, even if it doesn't seem like it at first. The bearings are Japanese, as are most of Deng's bearing products now. If they break, then oh well, replace them. New cartridges cost from 3 to 10 pounds. Not much. Also consider problems Profile and Hope hubs have too.... their bearings blow a fair bit too. Even the 'mighty' King hubs' bearings sometimes go poop. Nothing's perfect, but if it weren't for Tensile and King, Deng'd be my choice headset. Other brands I can't stand.
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Looks like the chain is completely twisted around?
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Sorry to semi-thread-hijack, but can anyone give the lowdown on CNC backings? I've heard of all the positives about them; but I do hear of and see negativities, mostly the fact that they snap the little prongs on the Magura slave cylinders where they attach? Since the CNC backings shouldn't wobble like plastic backings do on the prongs, then surely eventually all the pressure'd add up and be too much for the cylinders to handle?
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Normally softer pads tend to do very well for smooth rims. Original Zoo pads were brilliant especially on a smooth anodized surface. The only thing I didn't like was that smooth rims tend not to have an immediate bite that grinds offer. I mean, sure it holds damn well when set up right and in right weather conditions; but it always makes a squirming screech sound. Harder pads may work, but they tend to squish less as they are a bit stiffer, so that's kinda why I felt Koxx Browns weren't too amazing on smooth, but incredibly good on grind. So probably Heatsink Blues/Bluberry for smooth? Coust may even be good... they seem to be the king oligopoly-product in the market of pads, for all types of rims.
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Ah yeah this vid. Bunch of clips from what I remember. Pretty huge stuff considering the old-ness of the clips! I do like a bit of abstract riding, it's always good to see people performing unorthodox moves like sidehops-pedal. Bit damaging to pedals, but heck, it's a decent enough way to get up super high stuff without speed/bike-stressing risks of hooking and upping-to-bash. That very Python there (prototype bashless 04) was just finished being rebuilt earlier just last night! I'll get some pictures later at some point.