Sponge

To be honest I'm quite sad and bitter that you've got that Baby Pitbull now. DAMN!!! Ride it hard and enjoy it!

In fairness, Ali, Tartydays would predominantly be a trials social gathering and event, much like Koxx days, since they only became big names in the flatland, unicycling, and scooters worlds. I think something like a quarry would work perfect for trials riders, AND trials unicyclists. If we want to go further and to accomodate flatland BMXers and flatland/street unicyclists they can easily tag along on street rides, or have any flat plain. An indoor area with pallets on one side, and the other side being totally flat could work well! As for dirt jumpers, street BMXers, scooter riders... well, their sports aren't as niche or small as trials, flatland bmx, or unicycling and it's difficult to get stuff set up for them, not to mention they'd probably much prefer riding elsewhere. But yeah, Tartydays could work awesomely as a trials get-together, with bits of flatland and unicycling thrown in for fun. I'd definitely be up for that.

145x25

GU LE

-Limp handshakes (from guys/men) ..... seriously... you are not a 90 year old woman. Shake it like you mean it. ... and look me in the eyes when you do it too. -Coworkers too antisocial to just say 'hello!' when they pass by.... seriously, common courtesy -Mispellings in general... especially the their/they're/there and the 'would OF' instead of the correct 'would HAVE'.... RETARDS! -Dyslexics getting extra time in exams... seriously, sorry if you are dyslexic but man... 15-30 mins extra on an exam can be pivotal. Why can't we all get that? Dyslexics aren't always going to have 'extra time' to finish things in life... so don't give them that luxury in public exams when more able non-dyslexics get screwed over by dyslexics just because of that stupid extra time. and more..

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Haha, as soon as I saw the topic name and your username against it Jon, I KNEW it'd be this frame . It's light, but the shape is a bit poop. Could lower the seattube length a bit, and slightly cut down the seattube stump, heck, drill and file some big slots out in the headtube, and have a Spanish BB on there instead of Mid (if it is mid?). That'd be cuuurrrayyzeh...

One of the first few bikes that I actually quite like these days. It's nicely schemed, except get rid of the red hosing and red stem spacer and change it for black. Then it'll be perfect. There are just some components that should *always* be left either black or silver. Enjoy riding it, I'll miss having a trials bike.

Sweet bike Adam! I'm in awe of the subtle colour scheming, those Try-All-ized brakes work well with the rest of the bike. How are those bars doing? Is the geo similar to the Rage bars? Must weigh very little! What's really curious is how exactly does that bashring fit on? Ali had that on his bike too from what I recall. Happy New Year everyone!

I'm going to be running plastic looseball pedals (Odyssey Twisted PC), but if Lithium is said to be bad for plastic, when I come to regreasing the looseballs of the PC pedals, should I be going for something completely different? What's the bright blood red grease I keep seeing in bikeshops? It's bearing grease primarily I think, but what's it mainly based off? Lithium? If so, what's the difference with it compared to white lithium grease? Alright, so the Weldtite teflon grease is no longer an option, and I don't really completely trust White Lightning yet, even if their grease is 100% crystal clear . So it's down mainly to Park Polylube 1000 (synthetic) and some sort of Lithium grease. I still don't entirely understand what synthetic grease is and what makes it sometimes more popular than lithium. Is it just a generally more-friendly grease to materials like plastic? -Incase no one read the italic at the bottom of the first post, I was wondering about what lube works best for brake cables and pivots? Since I'll be using a U-brake of course. Finish Line is most likely the brand I'll be using, so is teflon a good idea for lubing these kinds of small parts and joints? Dry or wet lube?

Just as a general question to punt: Do Inspireds/most trials 24"s feel a great deal more difficult to ride 'BMX' than a sharply-set-up BMX? We're talking popping massive flicky bunnyhop gaps, complete mid-air 360 bunnies, long and easy manuals, front wheel balance tricks, tailwhip bunnyhops (whoppers); and general suitability for flatbanks and ramps? Always wondered.

Python-Coust hybrid one-off (couldn't take a 19" rear wheel) Onza T-Pro 2003 (second hand off eBay, old battered to death, needed replacing) Black Mumba (never rode it, cracked out of the box from Dan Ko ) Zoo! Python 2005 short (*awesome* frame my all-time favourite, sold it when I discovered cheap frames in China) Echo Lite 2006 (never rode, bought in China and sold for profit in the UK :wink2:) Zhi ZM1 (first gen.) 2007 (never rode, bought in China, built up, and then sold for profit :wink2:) Adamant A3 long (never rode, bought in China, built up, and then sold for profit... again!) Zoo! Python 2004 (finally, I rode this one, truly awesome frame, I'm glad I got to own one!..) Zoo! Python 2006 (treated myself, lasted very short time, I got very frustrated with mod rear ends bonking everywhere, so I sold it and got a 26") GU Typhoon 2007 26" (very very nice bike, and my one and only bike in my life bigger than 20"; never fully got used to it, but when I rode it, it was so smooth) GU ST 2008 20" (bought in China, and no longer needed a 26", so I rode this temporarily until...) Zoo! "Baby Pitbull" prototype-Python (swapped for GU ST with CLS, the legendary one-off prototype Python, extremely strong and no signs of weakness to this day! Awesome feel, really full of power) Over the course of 4 years! It was fun, but the scene and atmosphere wasn't the same as my early months. I wanted to move to another bike sport that my other hobbies could relate to. Now the road ends. Stop: Trials | Begin: Flatland.

Grazie, but if anyone can refer back to the text and offer detail on the unknowns (e.g. the functions and contrasts between each type of grease) that'd be awesome

Good morning, I've always been curious about the different types of greases offered; so I thought I'd ask the forum about their opinion on this. This'd also come in handy for others in the future incase they need to buy some long-lasting all-purpose grease in future. In short, I'm after an all-purpose grease, a large amount for years to come, that's of top quality. I could easily just not make a thread like this and ignorantly go out and buy any old tub that catches my fancy; but... like most components, it really pays to have good quality grease. Especially since I'm going to need plenty to regularly service my future Bamboo freecoaster, since that's the nature of freecoasters and unsealed bearings (which work better on 'coasters than sealed cartridges do, interestingly enough). I've read of all types of grease, such as : (can someone explain these?) -Lithium (red coloured?) -Ceramic-Synthetic -Teflon -Polylube But, I've never truly understood what the subtle advantages and drawbacks of each are. Normally I couldn't care less, and neither will most of you reading, but since freecoasters demand the most suitable grease possible, it is vital I get the best for it. It'll save me time in the long run, since with better and more suitable grease it'll (yep, you guessed it..) mean that I need to take apart my freecoaster less and not need to grease up the internals on such a regular basis. It's nothing like the fancy sealed cassette and fixed hubs in regular BMX and Trials where you have sealed cartridges that remain smooth for ages and never need greasing, freecoasters are great but just require plenty of cleaning out and regreasing as part of their nature. (Mostly because my 'coaster'll be a Nankai Bamboo, which is unsealed hence needs more attention to grease than most other sealed 'coasters do.. But sealed coasters are still flawed horribly (crushed from the side-forces too easily). Unsealed just lasts waaaay longer, but there's the obvious drawbacks to unsealed of course... messier) So primarily, I'm after something that's *awesome* for ball bearings, whilst being an all-round good waterproof grease for general anti-seize purposes The following greases, I'm keeping an eye on: 1. ParkTool Polylube 1000 2. Weldtite grease with Teflon 3. Weldtite Lithium grease 4. Phil Wood grease (said to be the Chris King of the grease industry?) 5. Finish Line Teflon grease 6. White Lightning Crystal grease ^I just need to buy one of them, or any other top quality ones you can recommend, to last me for a good year or so at least. Something all-purpose. Of course, I'll be using the ever-popular Copper Anti-seize for specific little jobs like 48-spline spindle greasing and for all threaded parts; but yeah mainly I'm just asking if you know what'd be best for bearings and general purpose (seatposts, press-fit bearings, steerer tubes, pedal servicing, fork crown race etc.) Preferably the grease should stay around in my bearings and internals of 'coaster without wearing-thin after a short time. That's why I'm so keen to avoid cheaper grease or even a decent brand grease for that matter. If any of you have ever bought the specific brand greases as I mentioned above for a similar reason like mine, then do give your verdict on them and compare and contrast to how other brand greases have performed and lasted for you. For example, I know that Pedros Syn Grease is an absolute pile-o'-crap from past experience; but hopefully everything else I listed works better than that did. On a quick side note: for any of you Vee/cable brake users, what is the most suitable lube for the wires/pivots/bushings? I keep hearing 'get Teflon lube', and I'll probably just buy some sort of Finish Line one, but there are tons of varieties. I'm not using it for chain lubing, but which specific lube is best suited for the smoothest cable-brake pull and performance? Since I'll be using a U-brake up front... Thanks in advance Happy Christmas!

Apologies for drifting slightly off-topic, but Mark you mentioned KHE products being horribly unreliable, basically, I haven't really owned any KHE parts, I do know that you run/once ran the Geisha Street, did you begin to run into major problems with it and went for something else? I've been hunting down coasters for a little while now, for my flat; All of 'em seem to be either KHE-type or Nankai. I'm heavily leaning towards a Nankai Bamboo as it seems people blow out the bearings far less on these. As for the KHE-type ones, are the Reverses still shitting the bed early? same for the Federals? I'm hoping the new Geisha Light isn't crapping on itself already. That seat combo looks awesome, how is it joined together? Some kind of epoxy resin or bonding glue of some sort? It's nice... but the post is about 300mm too short for me EDIT: Also, looking at Eclat's Midkit on their site there; it's a 'lil different to most. Are the bearings a different quality to the usuals you see around in Midkits? I've always wondered if there was a hierachy...

Awesome bikes, very clean! Ads, is the black Inspired not being made anymore?

I can't view certain images on my school's internet. Can someone upload onto TF gallery?

I've compared both in my own hands, and compared when attached to stems. They are the same in rise, and width. I guarantee. You must have a 2006/2007 edition then. The actual high-rise Zoo bars from 2005 are identical to Trialtechs. I can promise that.

The older ZOO bars from 2005 are great if you can get your hands on them. The Trialtech risers are an identical copy of their geometry. Great bars

I ran the same tensioner and gearing as you when I had a stock for a short time. No real problems. But you've got to get a perfect chain alignment to get it as smooth as possible. And also adjust the jockey wheel's bar so it is centred dead straight onto the chain, if you haven't done so already. Also make sure the two thin 'arms' holding the jockey wheel aren't fouling the chain. If problems persist, let me know! EDIT: One observation... your chain is very long. Definitely a lot longer than it was on my stock.. CLICK FOR PICTURES Compare the two bikes' tensioner angle. Your one is far lower angled than mine, suggesting your chain is really long and it takes that much angling to take up the slack. Try this: -Take tensioner off -split chain -shorten it down as short as it'll comfortably wrap around your sprockets (and sprockets ONLY!.. imagine it was a mod or BMX setup..) -do it so you get the absolute shortest chain you can on your sprockets alone... but within comfort... (i.e. don't get it dead tight that it'll struggle to fit together) -Now you will find you have less chain slack, and your tensioner only is there now to take up the few mm or 1cm of chain wiggle... (it basically acts like Icing on a cake, if you get me?) -Et Voila! Oh yeah, and still aim for the straightest chainline possible, and adjust the jockey wheel bar as close to perfect straightness with the chain as possible!

What's a Viz Logic stem doing on there?

Dan still owes me money that he never refunded me... Constitutes as theft and criminal activity. Anyone on that London ride a while ago? The big one that Simps organised before Summer? First time I met Sam Fenech? Yeah that ride Dan sold me a pair of ZHI cranks, which stripped on me the very same ride; yep a lot of you guys were there at the yellow walls just before Tate. I ran around all of London phoning Dan to try and find him so I could return the cranks, but he kept moving on... instead of waiting for his disatisfied customer... so Joe Hodges and I ended up circling half of London just to try and find Dan. Finally we caught up at the Stone Circle where a plenty observed me taking those Zhi cranks off my bike and returning to Dan... and Dan direct quote said that he would refund me by credit card... (Nick Manning is the one I remember most at this scene.. as well as Joe Hodges, incase proof was needed) ... turns out Dan never ever refunded me on credit card, and to this day, still owes me 50 pounds... and god knows if he even refunded that faulty Black Mumba frame (it was CRACKED out of the box) he sold me 2/3 years ago... Overall not very happy at all by the service. Now with the recent crisis with Abdab supposedly scamming a bunch of people, I'm starting to lose my temper with unreliable traders. Any more bullshit like this again and it will be taken up by the Metropolitan Police and Competition Commission. Dan, once you've finished reading this, please could you forward that refund you owe me. Both my parents are pretty unhappy about this, and even though 50 is not a lot (and that Black Mumba fault refund was never really processed either), I still take it very personally that a shop and professional would be so deceptive to his customers. Anyone else want to share what's happened to them? And no, please don't go suggesting to close this topic guys; because it is the only way that Dan has to speak up... and it is proven in the past that public forum topics are the only way of getting him to talk. Phone and email don't work... This is not a cold-blooded rant purely used to put down Dan.. absolutely not. I am giving my side of story, something which I should have revealed before. There comes a time when f**king about and being the nice guy won't get anything done. Now is the time for me to speak up about my problems with Trials-UK. Moral of the story: if ever getting a refund off Dan; if possible, get a cash refund back. Asking to get it paid onto your card will not happen.

Do you need Abdab's mobile number? This is really getting very out of hand. Eskimo sent 180 to him as well; yet no reply... This is very very odd since the a few of his other parts were sold successfully such as a few Onza Pro Series rims and the Tensile freewheel. At the end of the day; people have Abdab's address... if necessary, since at least two people are being blanked by him, the police are an option. It sorta constitutes as theft... considering your 50 and eskimo's 180 amounts to 230, and god knows who else is having trouble too.... From the times I phoned him he was saying 'oh yeh it's been sent out mate, don't worry'... Well, I hope so. Perhaps it could just be the beginning of slow Christmas post... Give it a few more days and if it still doesn't come; for either eskimo or Tim, then it's worth calling some figures of authority... However if one of you guys' parts arrive then there's good hope for the other... Fingers crossed, it's only a matter of time until things are sorted.

11am at the sloped walls opposite Shell centre, usual