Sponge

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Are Araya Himiko rims still around? Those were pretty popular back several years ago.... From what I kept hearing people raved about how great those rims were, and the chrome plating (as Mark pointed out earlier). Flatlanders still run chrome rims on the front for braking. Those that run brakes on the rear do it too. I run a Primo 7000 up front and a Hazard Lite rear, both anodized though. I'd still say I trust a Hazard Lite more, it's just all-round a very good rim.

Toothed engagement ring inside the hubshell has stripped threads in the hubshell itself. So that's why it's spinning freely. Only realistic solution is to get the shell replaced. Profile are normally good with warranties.

To be fair I think rubber grips are better. I had a choice of all the foam grips Tartybikes had on offer, but instead I finally went with the Porcipaw grips. They're rubber but very thin, and at a decent length. I much prefer the feel and look of them to the standard Echo/Trialtech/Koxx rebranded rubber grips which I've used for years and swore by. http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=10619

It's a 2006 frame. I have one sitting 2 metres away from me, sweet frames!

First Piranha I liked the look of. Seriously nice! Makes me want to build up my '06 Pitbull even more!

Nice! Makes me want to ride ! That's an 06 'Bull, looks rather bizarre in orange, haha! I just got one cheapish recently, building it up now. Is yours the long one? What bar/stem are you running up front I'm curious?

Mam and 'Paps must really adore you. That's an awful lot of bikes! Did each of them fail somewhere? Or did you just get bored of each? I'm guessing the Typhoon cracked though!

Is there no way to get around the stress-riser properties of 4-bolt mounts on forks? There are some places in China that still sell the Ultra-6 Deng forks back from 2006 and previous if that helps?

Agreed. Original Fourplay is neat.

Looks sweet! But stiffer than an 07 Pitbull? Those were built like tanks. Well, we all say the best things about a new frame , heh

Naice mian! @ Mike Poyzer-- bit off topic, but do you still have any 140mm Tensile cranks anywhere in your stores?

That downtube protector looks reliable enough. Though I'm curious as to how well it'd protect against super hard bashes. Dropgap-to-downtube fail? Off topic- Is sayshell the 'dark lord' guy?

Super useful! Scratches on a frame are not to worry about, but dents can be. from Sunday! BMX on their 3rd Wave frame, addressing dents: All the more reason to buy!

If those hideous Nuke Proof logos were removed, maybe someone might consider these as at least potential

Or just don't bother with them altogether. Safe enough without -- But yeah, seriously, gloves and helmet. Gloves aren't a protection thing for me, they're more for a more comfortable solid grip on the bars and sweaty palms can make riding feel a bit sketchy. I do think it's really great that helmets are seen as an encouraged norm in trials. Even though the sport isn't as hazardous as skating in most cases! They really need to wear helmets more..

As a general rule of thumb, when I say: "as a rule of thumb...", I'm being semi-sarcastic. Of course it's not actually a rule of thumb that frames without their material stated on sites like TartyBikes is automatically 6061. However, if a frame really is made of 'better' material than 6061, then why not state it? Surely mentioning it having U6 tubes or 7005 throughout is a good marketing tool? BMX companies will make it certain to mention that their frames are post-weld heat treated if they are, or if they are made using better quality 4130 chromoly than most other brands. It's a selling point. That is interesting about U6 and 6061 being used together on frames. That, I didn't know. So I appreciate that you informed us. Which makes me the wonder... those Deng frames of 2004, 2005, 2006 which were always marketed as 'U6 tubing throughout" , were they really now? As for solid parts like CNC'd yokes, are they mostly 6061 or U6 pieces of aluminium?

As a rule of thumb these days, any manufacturers who purposefully omit what material their trials frames are... it means they're too ashamed to admit it's 6061. If it were Ultra 6 or 7005, they'd proudly mention it or have a sticker. Think: Deng back in 2006 and previous... Inspired... Onza of old (T-Rex, T-Pro)... the list goes on. Now, Deng's frames are cheap and weak like soggy chips. I've seen more than my fair share of snapped 2010 frames in China already to come to a conclusion. 6061 is just to cut down manufacturing costs. U6 and 7005 are better for their various properties overall. That's why a lot of people can consider 6061 frames to be 'disposable' like cameras. Shame. Inspired is great stuff, rare these days

Rainbow pads! ... but only if you're lucky enough to go to Japan. The compound is designed for BMX flatland. But having tried them on a trials bike, they are surprisingly good. Quiet as a fox. (you can use Onza's v-daptors to mount them to HS33s)

Echo Pure 2004/2005 There's one for sale on OTN, almost brand new condition. The seller is US-based though. But worth it for such a great frame?

The above methods can work, but a bit much for the job you're after. You run the risk of gashing your frame and other parts when chopping and drilling away. Molegrip technique is good, and works... but not if the head of the bolt is sunk in like on boosters or some 4 bolt mounts. Simplest, most fool proof-method: superglue the most rubbish unwanted unloved allen key in your toolbox into the head of the bolt. Let it dry, and it'll have bonded inside the rounded head. Screw it out. It's the most harmless method of all.

2 years ago, high BB frames already existed in full force. 4 years ago Deng introduced a boat load of high BB frames, that's where the higher/longer stem trend started. Gilles, Vincent and Kenny were still on lower BB frames back then. There is too much of a 'good thing', so I'm wondering where's the limit? If higher and longer really was that good then why is no one running a T-Master stem? (40 degree and 300 metres long). I know of the disadvantages to longer stems, but what's stopping people from wanting to try 30 or 35 degrees? 25 still seems most popular. Why?

It's a nice frame, except for the humpy toptube. Always a bit of a dealbreaker for me. But otherwise, a sweet frame just like the rest of the Rockman range! Geometry looks nice too. I did too notice that stem preference for high BB has changed in the past few years. Before it used to all about 145x25, 160x25, ..just generally the smaller mod stems but still a bit huge for any stock? I am planning on riding a +55 frame, but am juggling with stem choices. 125x25 sounds good, but I am also tempted to try the 120x30 by TMS. Is there anything wrong with a front end that's angled a bit too high?

I don't know if trials riders are aware, but Try-All and the entire Koxx family that made 'ISIS' cranks/spindles were not up to standard ISIS spec. That's why you get less-than-perfect fitment than say an Echo crankset and FSA BB. This issue was brought to light a few years back because of Koxx-One (the unicycle subbrand). The 'ISIS' cranks and 'ISIS' hubs were not the same as standard expected ISIS. Therefore, people trying to fit Koxx-One cranks onto another brand's ISIS hub... simply did not work out as neatly. Likewise, trying to fit other brands' ISIS cranks like Tensile's 140mm uni cranks onto a Koxx-One 'ISIS' hub... not a totally perfect interface. Therefore people had issues with fitting any Koxx 'ISIS' pieces to any other brands' ISIS pieces. Try-All biketrials cranks fit perfectly on peoples' Koxx-One 'ISIS' hubs yet didn't fit nearly as neatly on other brands' ISIS hubs. Bottom line: Koxx/Try-All's ISIS is not of the identical standard of what people commonly know ISIS to be. I'm sure I'll get some howls of disapproval from certain individuals claiming otherwise. But I've been there and tried it. Unless Try-All magicly fixed their bike cranks in the past couple of years... But judging by a lot of posts littered throughout this forum including ones in this thread.. seems it's still not tip-top perfect.

Haha, got caught out However, key word: "generic" Actually also I've always wondered this: BB threads: Threadlock vs Copper grease. Nearly all threaded BBs seem to have a strip of dried threadlock on them, and there are some places that recommend using threadlock. However, I've always always been hearing copper grease is best, and that's what I've been using for every BB. It's like polar opposites: one to lock the BB in tight, and one to prevent it from seizing. So what's the actual deal here?