Sponge

When I first started Trials it wasn't uncommon to see stocks equipped with a locked-out Shimano road derailleur for use as either a singlespeed tensioner or for use with 5/6 working gears. Some older trials riders have run gears on DJ bikes this way too. Nowadays it's practically lost technology so I thought what better place to seek wisdom regarding this forgotten ancient technology than from the TF OGs who rocked this back in the day. There are old threads about, though no one's talked about these for many years so it'd be cool to get a discussion going! From what I've gathered so far, Shimano Road rear derailleurs with a short cage were the preferred choice. Found some instructions how to do this on an old OTN thread: Take the C-clip off pull the B-tension screw/plate off pull the spring out of the derailleur put the B-tension screw/plate thing back on without the spring in it put the C-clip back on Tighten the derailleur onto hanger. Generally what are the pros and cons of a locked-out derailleur setup? Can this be done with any modern Shimano MTB or Road derailleur regardless of speed and cage length? Does it work on specifically the 10 speed short cage ZEE or Saint M820 rear mechs, or any 11 or 12 speed XT or Ultegra short/med/long cage mech? 5-6 gears in the rear was the norm with locked-out derailleur - how come people weren't using a full 9 speed cassette or a full 10 speed? Does the locked-out method limit how many gears it can shift sideways and how about max tooth capacity? Can we make locked-out derailleurs great again? Discuss!

Do you know which XT hub it is exactly? Pretty sure it's not possible to convert to 'proper' bolt-on if we're talking Hope Pro 4 style where the 10mm bolts are the axle... However it is possible to convert a standard QR axle to take M6 bolts if you cut new threads into the axle on both sides (pretty simple and cheap to do yourself if you have access to a tap) - so it ends up like this Trialtech hub: Note this silver XT hub below has no spanner flats on the cones, and no external threads on the axle - it's not possible to do the conversion on this style of QR hub because the insides of the axle are shaped to take allen keys: But if your hub's axle has threads on the outside and a cone nut with spanner flats on it like this M756A hub - then it's definitely doable - since the inside of the axle is a regular round hole, not hex shaped for allen keys like the silver hub. Hope this helps

Levi's 511s might fit the bill? Slim but not skinny, quite similar fit to the ones in the OP. They have elastane in them so they've been nothing short of excellent for riding, doing stretches, practicing high kicks and things of that nature. No problems with rips or coming apart at the seams after 3 years. They're smart and are a common model in skate shops so they're worth trying on next time you head into town.

Ah that's awesome. I definitely know what you mean about it feeling vicious on the rougher trails. The local trails around here are very hilly and full of roots so eyeball rattle is something I've gotten used to. Getting thrown off the bike on some of the untamed downhill segments happens from time to time, and always hurts, but then again running Arcade bars and a steep HA on that terrain is kind of asking for it to happen. You're right though. It is fun!

Does anyone else double-duty their streety 24" or 26er as a trail bike? Yeah it's far from the most ideal bike for that kind of riding but for now I'm really enjoying hooning around local trails with my brother and our best friend. I ride a 24" with 22:15 ratio. They're on well-specced hardtails that I built for them (hence no longer having a proper MTB for myself) and I plan on taking us to trail centres in the near future. I know it's not popular but I'm wondering if anyone else does it and would love to hear other peoples' experiences. Something like this:

Thanks dude

Hey man, I've got a few Spikes left in chrome and white. If you're a fan of black then the Inspired undrilleds on Tarty are a good choice The guys who've posted already have given you credible advice . The DT will feel like crap and then proceed to die horribly, not to mention it might end up hurting you so steer clear. The updated Hope 80ep hubs are really excellent. But.... you don't want a Hope hub no matter how good they are. So get an ISO King and remember to bed it in sufficiently. If you want something different but still fine for trials then the billion-ep Profiles should be fine on a 24" rim I'd imagine. Little off-topic but aimed at Pro 2 80ep owners: how long did you allow yours to bed in before doing anything trialsy?

Really like that Leeson . What's the geo? Did you get it made recently?

It's a simple bit of kit I know but having a slightly undersized (hence wobbly ) custom axle with threaded holes that sit at an angle just makes me all the more keen to get one that's done just right. The guy made it on Valentines day and he did it for cheap, so I can't complain.

I'd like to put a 15mm M10 axle on my front Pro 2 so I can run 10mm bolts, and was wondering if Euan still makes these and how much he charges? Alternatively, can anyone vouch for an experienced machinist who's able to make a 7075-T6 axle to a high tolerance? (I had one made by a machinist in the US, but the machining and tolerance was sloppy) Any help is appreciated! Thanks

How about TNNs? http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/26_inch_forks/tnn_engineering_curved_blade/c40p12044.html

Tidy! What axle/end caps are those up front?

PM'd

Then just hammer the b*****d out I've done it before and remember it being easier than it's made out to be. Just line up and hold the extension bar as central as you can through the bottom of the fork and just wallop it until the starnut either deforms into separate pieces or comes out as one piece through the top.

ISIS Middleburns.

Echo SLs are hit and miss, the 4-bolt version is like playing Russian Roulette with your face . Glad you didn't get hurt dude . 4-bolt mount forks are generally fragile compared to disc forks due to design. It's just the nature of the beast. It depends on your riding style and what kind of moves you gravitate towards. Do you like front wheel moves? The Eklipse forks are shorter and have tighter offset which makes front wheel moves a bit easier to get into, the headtube angle gets steepened which is what you want if you like nose manuals and gaps to front. From the description it says they're 7005 which is what you want if you're looking for a more durable alu fork. The Eklipse is better than the Because on paper if you're still wanting 4-bolt forks, but I haven't used either so best bet is to ask someone who's got them or ask Tartybikes. If you're really keen on longevity out of forks, then I'd consider going disc up front.

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Does anyone else want a set for their 24" or 26"? They look really good and fill a hole in the trials forks market seeing as they're steel, well-made, and offer Pro 2 front hub users the chance to do away with QR skewers! That bolting design it uses looks ideal, so I'd happily get a set of these forks if they were available separately. If there's demand from enough riders, would it be something Inspired could be open to offering as a standalone product? If it did come on the market, would you get one for your streety 24/26?

Looks cool You wouldn't still have that Python from ages ago would you?

Thanks for the heads up guys I had no idea they were like that! Are the Crewkerz Freed tensioners any good? The curvature of the mounting arm looks like it'd fit way better than other sprung tensioners with my hanger. I think it comes as it does in the pic below, so if I added an M10 bolt + a rubber washer + steel washer, would it mount like how the Trialtechs do?

Who knows how to make one of these from scratch? The photo below gives an idea of how it works, but even better would be if anybody has one and could explain how many & what small parts there are to it in all? - Where are good places to source the individual parts from? - What are the pros & cons of jockey wheels vs rollers? Bearings or bushings? It's just a tensioner at the end of the day, but it's a nice change to the usual and it'll be fun to make one. Something that runs quietly, smoothly and maintenance free would be ideal. Recommendations are appreciated! Thanks

Awesome, thanks for the heads up Matt! I'll contact Joel and see. Are you riding these days?

Hey guys, does anyone know how to get in touch with Clive or Kris? I've tried phoning the number listed on the Leeson site but the person at the other end of the line hangs up as soon as I ask if I'm speaking with Clive, which seems a bit odd? The site hasn't been updated since '05, could it be possible that Clive's no longer living at that address and someone else is there now? It's my first time getting in contact with Leeson, so if anyone could let me know a way of contacting him that works that'd be awesome . Thanks!

It wouldn't be for day in day out use, the tools stay in unless something's worked its way loose. Just thought it'd be handy as this lower torque wrench I've used has made setting some bolts really quick and convenient. I'd like to apply the same to my drivetrain, and would end up using it for my car when it needs it. There's something satisfying about having your own tools and being able to do as much as possible by yourself

Brilliant, just the answers I was looking for. The Norbars look great, currently looking at this one: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=11815&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=CIbsr_fLhL0CFagKwwod3UUAdA I'm using Middleburns, and I think it'll be a good habit to set the proper torque on good quality parts, but mainly to keep the tapers in top condition. Also intending on using it for work on my next car so plenty of good reasons to invest in one now . Will check out the Halfords ones too if they are as good as you say they are! The warranty makes it very tempting.