CurtisRider

You may have just been lucky though, and it also depends on what you are willing to live with (i.e potentially numerous non working parts). There are some gems out there but there are also some cars that look totally genuine but have had a rough past, this may not always be apparent at first. Sub £1000 cars are a minefield and regardless of mechanical knowledge you cannot always predict how reliable they are or will be in the future. Oh and you did miss that you only kept most of those cars for a nano second

Just ordered 4 new injectors, fingers crossed several problems are cured....

Made my warm up regulator adjustable this morning, a significant difference has been made but it's still not quite right. I took apart an auxiliary air regulator yesterday but it seems as though it's not repairable so i'll source a secondhand one. Fitted a working vacuum advance, revs raise as i suck the vac pipe so that is sorted I think I may just take the plunge and buy 4 new injectors, the spray pattern is awful and after looking at some spares I don't think any extra cleaning will do much for them now

The WUR wiring has been replaced and produces 12V when tested. Startup is one of my main issues as it is very difficult to get going! I have used an ultrasonic cleaner on the injectors, although dipping them in teeth destroying acid coke sounds like a good way to get rid of some poop! I'll try backwashing them with some tube, carb cleaner and air compressor. The AAV does make a difference, a working one changes the idle by 150RPM, which aids cold starts rather a lot. In all fairness to the dude, he hasn't tried to force me into spending anything, this is just what he would change. He said If I wanted to fit secondhand parts and return for it to be tweaked then that's cool. George, that is my thinking which is why i'm only repairing spares I have rather than spending any money. I'd rather put up with some lumpy running and save for a conversion than invest any more into this engine now.

He won't fit secondhand parts but at least I have areas to work on now. Every WUR I get seems to be dead, so going refurbed/new then is seemingly best but pricey at about £250 I did see that you can do them at home by pressing the steel inserts in and out to adjust pressures so I may try that with one of my spares, not like they are much use anyway. I found my spare distributor and it has a working vacuum advance so that's handy, at least that is one problem fixed and i'll gain back some power. I think AAVs are rebuildable kind of, so i'll hack apart one of my spares and see what happens. I find this weird as mine was functioning when I last tested, and fitted the photos online but he reckons it should be opening further. Injectors can wait until the rest is getting somewhere as it seems they are not as pressing in comparison

My car hates me. The garage phoned up and the parts list ain't cheap (£1100 for all new parts). Back to plan A of 1.8T, just means i need to put up with a poorly car for a bit longer... at least it'll be far superior!

Dropper arrived, it won't latch into the lowest setting which is frustrating, i'm wondering if the boot is preventing it from squishing enough as it half catches and then pops up

I can if I make the mould thin walled and nearly hollow inside I guess, it's not like it costs much to print anyway but they will probably take the best part of a day to print out. If they work then I know a few club members will want them as the seals are new £100+, secondhand £50+..... I'll try cheap silicone first, pretty sure i've got a tube in the shed that i've not used

Yeah I was going to add the vents once I've printed it, that way I can find the perfect place for them although i'm pretty sure at the bottom would be best (obviously fill it up upside down). Jardo, isn't that 85 shore stuff going to be fairly stiff? It needs to be very flexible and squishy so it can fit into the hatch lock aperture. What would be a suitable release agent? The 3d printer leaves a texture so i'm figuring it will be a bitch to remove

Just designed the negative halves I'll try silicone first, this stuff seems super soft though compared to silicone and I know they are a bit of a sod to fit!

As part of my sorting out leaks adventure, I want to make some boot pin seals as mine are dead and cost silly amounts to replace. I need to make these out of a soft rubber, softer than silicone ideally, any ideas as to what I could use?

We got it recently, going to buy an expansion pack soon! It's great, shame a few cards are shit but most are awesomely funny

I'd rather fix it properly! I don't want to bodge stuff, causes issues later on potentially. I've replaced most seals, but have noticed my hatch seal has already perished a bit, not even a year old! Joe, looks good in white, prefer it to my red one. Which engine did you go for?

Unlucky with the clutch, why not just do it yourself? I already have 2 massive Pingi style bags, they do help but the cars a little too wet inside for them to work well enough unfortunately

Whats up with it? To add to my list of annoying problems, my car seems to love letting water in so now I have very damp carpet everywhere and steamed up windows nearly all the time. Time to get sexy with a hose this weekend and find a leak

I guess I could try this, other than adjusting the idle screw to compensate would the mixture need changing too?

I do it as per the proper Porsche manual with the advance line DC, at idle (950 rpm according to tacho although that's probably not that accurate). I'm probably doing something wrong though...

Yeah I have a basic strobe but my flywheel has TDC, +10 and -10 markings on it

Mud Dock did twin chain set ups yonks ago and it was also done by some trials riders about 15 years ago, can't find photos though

Not noticeably, although I don't think it has ever been 'right' since I got it

It's at 10degrees advance as per recommendation, I've had it more advanced before but that was before I had my flywheel put in the proper location (it was put on incorrectly by whoever last visited the clutch I assume. Leads are in order, if they weren't surely i'd have a massive lack of power? Yeah ignition does seem to be the issue, it's just figuring out what it is. I'm booking up with C&R in Nottingham to have everything setup correctly, do you remember them from when you lived his way?

I'm on my 3rd WUR, passes all tests using a pressure tester. I am thinking ignition timing although it's set to the correct timing mark currently... Leads shouldn't be arcing as they are pretty new and didn't alter the lumping, cant see anything to suggest that in the dark either. Is there any other way to test the leads? I can tell mines running a touch rich, but other than that they look good. I'll give that website a look!

I made a plate that secures the battery pouch onto the bottle mounts I made a plate that secures the battery pouch onto the bottle mounts

Jardo, try bleeding it the traditional way with one person pumping and the other person opening/closing the bleed nipples. I had a problem with my car ages ago and that for some reason was the only way I could get it to bleed, afterwards i used the EZ bleed and all was good

it is indeed, EVIL K jet