CurtisRider

well at a guess jt must be either feckin amazing and we just dont know about it, or appaulingly bad.....cos if he cant trackstand then hes missing a vital trials 'trick'-cant think of the word! trackstands are a vital part of trials, riding left foot isnt really necesary, but it does help you improve and adds a bit of a challenge to your riding-great for when you are bored and only have small stuff to ride! go for it, i personally dont bother intentionally practising it, i seem to do it naturally now-then again i rarely get to ride natural and i dont really trackstand whilst streetriding

linear slick for sure, mines are great, if you can stretch to it, get a nokon as they are fookin immense, i run 1 on my front disc, soon gonna get another set so i can run them on my mod :)

big gay guy griffiths rides a purple themed koxx almost idetical to that, and he is ginger so it must be ok :)

i run a v at the back, and its silly powerful-i know how to set 1 up well (Y) but upfront it would be sketchy, theres little modulation compared to a disc, its so inconsistant i find, for me a disc upfront is the only way for me to feel comfortable doing moves involving the front brake-cos i know what its doing

yup the mini is a sound brake, i liked both of mine (Y) get at least a 185 rotor, and upgrade to some ebc red pads for stupidly good power (Y)

xtr or avid ultimate-dont bother with anything else cos these are the tits, i have both and like them loads, smooth, strong and look great get linear slick or nokon cables, that combination is great :P

ive got a semi....... :P

surely upper and lower body lengths make more of a diference? for instance i have quite long legs and a shorter upper body (im 6ft2) and ride a curtis-suits me down to the ground even though its short so wouldnt varying body part lenghs make more of a difference over the overall height of a person-sorry im finding this hard to explain!!

front: avid bb7 185mm on a ultimate lever and nokon cable rear: avid ultimate, catridge backings with rimjam red material on a ultimate lever with linear slick cable :rolleyes: basically i think the best cable braking setup you can get (depending on cables and pad choice really as its a personal preference)

well my bbs suddenly snap (square) (Y) in general an isis 1 wont break too easily, the bearings are usually deads before they get a chance to break!

that vids superb!!! :shifty:

so will you if you run the pilots :shifty: snap!bang! shove someting in the holes, i dunno a fluffy toy or something

mx comps, pilots arent up to the job mate

well that makes feck all difference, i can ride a mod almost as well as i can a stock, and i rarely ever try it.... vids shit, im sorry but it lacked any editng qualities, took ages to actually show any riding and was boring, the riding was well, errrr, if thats the best you can do.....

i find its feckin easy-i do it loads and have only cocked up a few times in the learning process, looks and feels even cooler if you do it rolling wiht no front brake, very bmx :P

working honda moped-swapped it for an aero(yes the chocolate bar!!!! around 40p from your local store) thrashed it, bent it in half after jumps :"> and then stolen many parts and left it in a box, sold later for 15 pounds!!! i only bought a new spark plug for it and petrol now thats a feckin bargain and an investment :)

i dunno why im helping him but......get a base, they are damn fine, and please scrap the zero, they are disgusting frames :)

eeeek fattys on a leeson, look mingin :) whatya want is some pashleys(or identity tuning forks if you need disk mounts!) they will compliment your frame well!as well as being very good (Y) as for cranks, burns and tensiles are very good, but im not a fan of their looks, unfortunately you are a bit restricted when it comes to bbs, cos you have to get clive to fit a new'un if you dont have the correct interface fitted(square or splined)-which is alot of time and hassle personally i think the raceface lp cranks look pretty cool, and are good too, but i guess you cant beat middleburns over all quality and service+backup when things go pearshaped, if its possible go for 3 piece-i cant belive how much better mine feel over alloy cranks (Y)

ha ha wishful thinking.....that wud never work im afraid, if there is a problem with it however, and its a manufacturing 1, there shudnt be any trouble with getting a new 1 (Y)

looked at mx comps? they are great forks :) and come in 80, 100 and 130 :D you can adjust the air presure to make them stiffer too psylos are ok, not tooo bad-bit flexy and soft-springs are expensive too-the internals are a bit cheesy(as in the viz/koxx cheese metal lol) i would steer clear of manitou forks too, they have plastic internals (Y) not good for hardcore fun :D get marzocchi everytime i reckon-tough, reliable, good looking (excpet for the dirt jumper range (Y) )

what rim is it? i currently run a d521-28mm and is fine, and my 32mm atomlab was cool too (Y) i ride mainly street though with 30ish psi

rity i finally got off my arse and sprayed up my rim, then laced into onto my hope xc, looks great :) and i ground it-no paint chipped off (Y) cheers for you help :P

jt get nokon stuf, its the tits :S if you are willing to pay half we could go togther and get a apir for 17.50 each, cos i need a rear 1, already got 1 upfront <_< makes my avid feckin amazing, its silky, and as light as a magura bled with water, highly recomended saying that on my bmx my linear slick is incredibly smooth and the brake is solid, with no lube....

that wud do the job (Y) still think homemade is better!

d321/ex729 disc specific though, and can be drilled to fook :P ask fatmike if you want one, he has one spare :- they are about 32mm wide i believe and are incredibly strong :P bloody hell they are fast