CurtisRider

Basically i really like my shindig pedals on my trials bikes, and want some for my jump bike :) ive tried them on there, and they suit me and at last my feet dont slip off the pedals unlike with many other brands ive tried :P but i want a catridge bearing pedal, not open as i ride in lots of muddy places-i looked on tartybikes, but there appears to only be a open version still. i remember somebody saying there was a sealed version but it was called another name? any suggestions on a similar pedal, for under 50quid preferably, would be appreciated cheers, paul :P

well if hes using a echo fixed cog (screw on track cog?) then he will be a bit buggered if his cranks are 4/5 bolt pattern :P and yes matt, im impressed that i managed to type that well pished, but im worried that, as soon as i came home, i went on trials forum...i like bikes too much :)

argos racing mill out the bb shell and put in a steel insert whichs is threaded and pressed in, i saw it in mbuk ages ago, i think its something like 60quid if i remember rightly from the picture you can certainly tell retapping would do bugger all :) i made my own bb tap (thanks to the advice of edd potts :P ) and that worked really well on a frame i was given with damaged bb threads seeing as leeson bikes use press fit bbs, you could possibly talk to clive and see if he can help you, he will most likely be cheaper than most people too :P

echo assuming they are ffw cranks (Y) mines great anywho :D

sounds an ok setup to me, get a mono lever, evolver rear brake and a linear slick cable for a damn fine but cheap brake :lol: chrome rims just dont work in the wet, tis the main reason why itll never catch on for trials-if it was as good in the wet as it is in the dry, everybody would use them :- ooo and dump the giro, they always take power out :blink:

are you running a chrome rim on you bmx? if so no pads will work in the wet-tis the way it is :lol: ive found that spitting on you finger and wiping it on the rim makes the brake uber sharp-they seem to love that little bit of moisture but not too much (as in soaked!) what brake are you running? with what cable and lever? cos it really makes 1 hell of a difference :- make sure your rim is clean, dont ever expect it to stop you ultra well when its caked in dust and poo-jif/cif/washing up liquid works a treat in gettin off the scum :blink:

spanish flies upfront, they really are tremendous :lol: crvs i found were a little too powerful and made front wheel moves a bitch (they are ebst at the back), and heatsinks i found to be below par (Y) i run a grind upfront, so i cant say how these perform on a smooth rim, except on a chrome bmx rim where the spanish flies win again :lol:

fookin hell that was good, and i love that song so i dont care if it doesnt quite soon the riding :lol: well impressed (Y) it wasnt repetitive and was just.....coool :lol:

we used to do that at school :lol: but only so we could play solitaire (Y)

get the v24.................they are amazing frames to use, and the components are top notch :deej: they even come with a free cable disc for the front atm :) cant grumble! cheap as chips too (Y)

old bit of hose pipe zip tied (Y) easy fix but not pretty

echos for sure, montys arent all that special, and only come in a short length which ive found sucks, especially since i have a stock background like yourself. my echoes on both my bikes have ben solid and reliable (Y) but if you can get that extra bit of cash go for tensiles-they are well nice :D i miss mine (Y)

yip ive tried it on my deore disc, had some old rimjam red rubber spare so cut it out and stuck it on-lets just say it was inf**kingcredible.........trouble is the pads werent very flat so i kinda got a blow torch on them to see if theyd melt flat a little ^_^ lol the result was a gooey mess im gonna try it again, but i need to find a more suitable glue as it is quite likely superglue/araldite isnt strong enuff for those kinda forces as there is less surface area of glue than in the maggy/v brake pads ive made i used an avid disc rotor, id recomend a solid rotor if you are gonna use very soft material like i did be very careful though, i really wouldnt recomend relying on your first attempts to hold you with trials/very fast useage-cos if it comes off.............. <_<

sorry, it wont be open until new year, and sorry logo help isnt needed, zak got confused, cheers for the offers though <_< dont bother asking me about the frames or anything yet, i dont really want to get anyones hopes up yet, until i feel they are 100% ready. when im ready to post pics and information i'll do so, in the meantime just get excited and think 24 ^_^ cheers, paul

60 ep wasnt it? anywho definately looks like ill get a few of them, be well nice on my jump bike and on my 24 project ^_^ already got a few enos on other bikes, feel lush <_<

lol well i did kinda buy a curtis frame afterwards.... it'll catch on mark, just you wait and see (Y)

ive never had to adjust my wheel on my mod in the 3months+that ive owned it-the chains perfectly tensioned still.......bit weird, id expect some chain slack but there isnt any (Y) and whats 15 mins quickly tensioning it (due to chain stretch) and readjusting the brake? it really is as simple as that yeah mods work, marks right, they work bloody well! also, yes stocks work, but at a very high cost due to having to replace bloody mechs/tensioners/hangers.........its a real pain in the rectum for most riders, who then cant afford to upgrade-its wasting thier money. i noticed you say removing the wheel 'looks a complete pain in the arse' by that im assuming you've never tried it-bacically its a piece of piss, ive run a mech on my p2 (has horizontals and inbuilt mech hanger) and its no more difficult that gettin a wheel out of a vertical dropout) dont judge it til you tried it-also how often do you take the wheel off anyway? as for running gears on a horizontal frame, yeah seems pointless if thats all you gonna run i agree......but the option is there for you and at what extra cost? its not gonna hold you back is it........ see this man knows the score, i cant believe there arent more stock riders who think like this, and by the sounds of it, is in a similiar position to most riders-he doesnt ride comps so doesnt care about gears..... im not meaning to dig at you deadly venom and luke, just you both dont seem to have any real reasons not to want horizontal or to dismiss it for stocks in general........except maybe if the bike is comp only. but maybe me and mark are wrong? give us a few proper valid reasons perhaps?

are you sure? im reckoning you have just had 1 break and are jumping onto a 'mavic are shit' bandwagon, cos i think the majority of stock roders on this forum will disagree, i know i certainly do im trying to work out how a pinned and welded joint is weak, compared to the standard pinned joint.......? personally ive never had a problem with either, but id prefer to have the weld too, just for peace of mind

on one gimp stem has probably the lowest clamp ive seen, also 1 of the funn stems does too, but these are super short............very bmx esque (Y)

yip totally agree with mark, its feckin stupid how stock riders dont seem to wanna run horizontal, i know for sure that id go for it, sure itll slightly alter you effective chainstay length-BUT GET OVER IT! ive never had problems with my horizontals on my dirt, bmx or my mod bikes, they have been super sweet, yet mechs/tensioners-they are always a faff due to thier sticky out nature meaning you catch them all too easily the use of a half link would almost rule out the chainstay length problems as to when tension is applied by moving the wheel backwards and so there really arent any excuses there.... basically mod riders manage, and alot of them are the shizzle, it just seems the majority of stock riders arent welcoming such a good idea with embracing arms, which is a great pity also frames such as the azonic steelhead have the gear hanger on them as well as horizontal dropouts, so ensuring comp legalness.........theres really no excuse not too (Y)

dont worry about pinned rims, most trials rims are, basically only mavic weld them anyways id definately go for that over koxx/echo/wank/any of the other wide rims cos sun use less cheesy metal (Y) although really id advise alex rims if you want wide-they are the closest to mavic quality imo

not the 73 (Y) hollow axle is far weaker :) un53 however kicks bum :)

will it invalidate the warranty? cos i was thinkin of doing this to my hope hubs, front and rear?

another vote for dx :ermm: i havent personally owned the surly or king versions and dont really intend too either, since the dx is capable enough B) basically the difference between a dx and a standard cog is the teeth are deeper from what i can see, as well as the cog being thicker than standard (only an ickle bit) so theres less chance of you folding it over (ive done it to normal cogs and seen others do it) and they seem to last ages......well mines a few years old and doesnt appear to have worn at all B) ooo and they are only like 3-4quid too so its not gonna lighten you wallet to much :D

espeacially since most people run the seats up anyway :ermm: so its the equivalent to havin a 16 with the seat down....