Ali C

that seems to be the unfortunate outcome for a large volume hand made tyre. Best bet is to make sure it is all seated correctly and possibly adjusting it at a low pressure before pumping it up.

if you run harder than normal trials pressure, punctures are not so bad. I run around 40psi and only get punctures if I really mess up. Having a heavier tyre on the rear upsets the balance of the bike too in my opinion.

would have though it would be best marketed for snow bikes and the like. They ride on really soft snow and sand then come to ice and rock, changing the tyre pressure would give some benefit in those cases, prolonging tyres lives and making riding less of an effort with drag.

bike looks amazing Ben, I had the same idea for brake mounts, good to see they work, the dropouts look neat too

awesome stuff guys!

big stuff!

not a huge fan, seems to have made everything harder to read

I lace up the wheel and while there is some thread showing on the spokes I drop a bit of chain oil on and it will be sucked into the threads. It's quick and you only get the oil where you want it.

for all intents and purposes, 0.02mm is perfectly 100% straight.

depends what your idea of perfectly straight is. A lot of it comes down to the rim, if the rim is shit then it may be impossible to get it straight, if it's a good rim you can get it pretty dam straight. Not sure if patience is the ykey, I've managed to build a wheel in 15 mins that was within .02 of a millimetre straight and it's still going strong now.

Yes you can. Don't forget to stress the spokes too, the more you do it the less likely the spokes are to come loose.

tough luck I'm afraid, get one side straight then don't look at the other, I find that normally works

the thing is if your frame is meant to have 26" wheels its likely to have long chainstays and a low bb, the longer chainstays won't be much on an issue, but it won't be taking advantage of the smaller wheels, but the low bb could be an issue, you may have to run shorter cranks to make sure you don't clip them. Personally I would stick with what ever wheel size a frame is designed for.

this isn't the official video you know?

I use spray paint to stick my grips on so unfortunately airlines won't do the trick. I go for the old spoke with the end filed smooth slid under the grip and the remaining spoke bend at 90 degrees, a bit of meths and turn the spoke, works well unless your grips are really stuck down then the only option is to cut them off. but yeah, spray paint (or lacquer) for the best grunt.

yon't stop you from getting them you wannabe

nice riding which the effects ruined. that's perhaps a little harsh, but when watching it I found my attention was being drawn to the effect rather than the riding and I honestly believe riding should always come before anything else. As a result of the effect I can't really remember the video at all, not exactly the result you want at the end of a video.

saw "Leon" the other day. I thought I had seen it before but I think I confused it with another film. anyway, I saw it had good ratings and indeed it wasn't shit. I really like Jean Reno and Natalie Portman (was a bit weird seeing her so young). I thought the acting (or script) was a bit off in a couple of places but overall it was pretty decent. 8/10

Kenny has the nicest style, Abel is a beast too.

weird, but amusing Amusing, but weird

I have a Fox RP23 air shock on my Orange 5 and I run it pretty soft as I HATE sticky shocks, not ideal as it can bottom out fairly easily but it's a compromise. Ideally I would like it to be a little more progressive so I can keep the small bump feel but have it ramp up towards the end so it's harder to bottom out. Coil shocks are waaaay better for sensitivity but obviously weigh more. you need to look at which is better for you, lighter and less sensitive, or heavier and more sensitive? I have some Air sprung Fox forks up front too, they are the 36's so a little longer travel and they feel pretty good, they are pretty close to coil shocks sensitivity wise, but I can feel them spike on fast repeated hits. for all round use they are amazing, but for mostly DH stuff I would prefer coil sprung.

there was some pretty good stuff in there, surprised not to see Danny though. song was actually a worse version of the one everybody uses, gash.

is it worth putting up with that song?

Wheel building isn't some black magic thing and stories of cassettes with the correct note for "some" wheels doesn't help shake it. If you have a good quality rim then all the spokes should sound the same, don't worry about getting them to a certain note or pitch, wheels vary from rims, hubs, spoke butting and number of crosses, so it's unlikely that two wheels will sound the same. If you have a lesser quality rim (most trials rims then) then you may have to tighten some spokes more than others to get a true wheel, this isn't ideal but it's just what happens, in this case the spokes won't all sound the same. Just concentrate on turning all the spokes evenly to start with, then see how true the wheel is looking and go from there. If the wheel is fairly true then you can work on getting a bit higher tension in the spokes, if it's all over the place, get it true (by tightening AND loosening the nipples) and go from there. I have access to a Parks spoke meter, but I rarely use it as it usually tells me what I already know from the feel and sound of the spokes while building.

it wasn't