Ali C

it'l explode no doubt Seriously though, it will f**k the brake up

why such a low bb? Not being argumentative genually interested

I would laugh if they actually ended up being toxic (like some frogs)!

There was nothing stopping you from making a really well editied and creative video.

I love animals EXCEPT sharks, emotionless, relentless b*****d things.

f**k that!

I'd always assumed it would be for food?

on the other hand, a high bb for me was/is way harder to sidehop. you have to jump higher than you would with a lower bb (because the back wheel is lower compared with the cranks). I sidehopped my highest on a +10bb simtra (52") yet when I got a +45bb frame, I couldn't do bar height. I also found higher bb harder to land gaps as the back wheel is more "ahead" of you when landing which puts your whole body weight back. I always landed the gap, then fell over backwards with a high bb. Same with hooks and taps. Saying that, I am a little old school and always liked rolling about instead of being on the back wheel and I never wanted to put in the time to learn to ride a high bb frame as I just didn't like that style of riding. +35mm is about as high as I would go on a stock, gives the best compromise I think.

I'm cool with the idea as long as it doesn't drain any natural resources (I would imagine a large heard of herbivorous dinosaurs would need a lot of food and space to live). Would be interesting to see what Christians would make of it all.

Mark Westlake's long lost brother? higher bars and less rotated bars would help you I imagine, you're back is almost level with the floor when on two wheels, looks really awkward, nice to see dual disc though.

enjoy your chopper

yes, very good, will work well with those levers, it's as good as modern SD7s, not a bad brake at all.

Those first rocks and how their laid out is pretty good! That's what councils should be making trials parks like, loads of lines and it even looks good to the general public (like a sculpture). Some pretty fancy camera work going on in the video! Riding was pretty huge too.

Quite surprised my video got voted higher than a few others, I'm pretty happy with 3rd, thanks everyone! A special mention for Ben for conceiving the comp and having the balls to do something with it, it's been a great success in my opinion no doubt due to all the effort you've put in (and other who helped). Even injuries didn't stop you (much)..respect!

a trialtech 20X17 sport stem will transform that bike

makes the brake more powerful/adds a bit more squish to the lever (if that's your thing, which with me it is). I always ran my SD7's speed dial almost halfway, if I felt I was getting arm pump, I would dial in the power and not have to pull as hard.

the last ultimate lever I had develoved play really fast, I find the newer style sd7 levers the best out there for both comfort and lack of play, plus the speed dial system is a god send!

get your weight further forwards, you don't need to go any higher (I always aim to get my front wheel just over the top of the wall) This way, all of the upwards momentum from the hop carries on up and on top of the wall. If you your weight is forwards, you hardly have to do anything in the second stage. so yeah, weight further forwards is the key, then you'll be getting manuals out of it.

ok

ultimate arms tend to be quieter because they move less, most vee arms have a little wobble which can make them noisy.

if you are getting a custom frame and don't work out how long your chainstays are with your fave gear ratio then you're doing it very wrong. Once you have your chain tensioned with your ratio and the brake caliper welded on, chain stretch is maybe ~3mm.......3mm doesn't warrant sliding dropouts for most (all?) callipers. Edit, with the angle that callipers are at on the back, moving the wheel backwards doesn't mean you're taking the rotor 3mm down the pads, it's more like your just moving it backwards, so pad contact with the rotor doesn't change all that much.

very entertaining

checked the disc mount for cracks? (or the crown area too). I would also check the wheel bearings and perhaps grease the brake bolts too (assuming this is where the creaking is coming from?) Also worth checking your stem, frame and bars too.

how tight are the spokes? How old are the forks?

I can't really make it any clearer