Ali C

when I bleed a brake, I usually put the syringe in the caliper and bleed from the bottom up, the theory is that air likes to ride and bubbles will come out easier if they are going up the system. Once I have done that, I put the syringe in the lever but leave the bleed bolt in the caliper. I then pump the lever while turning the whole lever around the bar to make sure any trapped air gets a chance to come out. The bubbles will come out of the lever into the syringe and be replaced with fluid. Works perfectly every time.

well for starters you shouldn't rely on using the tpa for making the pads closer to the rim, move the cylinders closer instead. As for leaking, unless you have changed the hose or kicked the crossover, I doubt it. You said you bled it recently, without sounding harsh and if you don't know some of the top tips then you probably bled it incorrecly.

I must admit I used to think Coustsinks were different from the pads the Cousts actually used due do the different finishes on the pads. I now kno that the Coust pads are sanded on all sides which leaves a matt finish rather than the cut blanks that Heatsink gets which have a shinier surface. Still don't like the pads though.

not true

your piston is bottoming out in the lever. Unwind the tpa, set the pads up as flat as possible and give the brake a bleed.

not the best brake for trials? or not the best brake all together? They are one of the best made brakes and up there with the best for trials, but the caliper piston is too small to produce the power needed for trials. The X2 lever has a lot of adjustment and doesn't develop any wobble, power is the same as a mini lever, but you can dial the feel more. Combined with a Mono Trials caliper gives plenty of power and good feel.

I wouldn't recommend one for trials. They are pretty poor on power and bite, but have plenty of modulation

grind, works in the wet

thats why trials is so great, you dont need anything specialized to ride on, you can learn and improve even on flat ground.

so a zap tap is just rolling up an object?

good luck finding a stem to suit it

what is a zap tap?

someone needs to be brave and order a Marino with a 75degree head angle and long wheelbase

most old low bb short bikes from the past i remember having long (120mm ish) stems on anyway. I still can't see the reasoning behind slacker headangles and long stems.

I have always wondered why frames arn't made with a steeper head angle (longer toptube) and a shorter stem? Your arms would be in the same position so it's not like there is more chance of going over the bars, but steering would be faster and the bike wouldn't feel like it's pivoting in the middle. MTBs have catched on, just seems we are stuck in the past a little unless anyone can think of an advantage with them as they are?

I am sorry ,but this has annoyed me a bit. I have been riding trials for nearly 14 years, I have tried and experimented with all kinds of things on bikes (made my own rigid forks from suspension parts, welded rims together to make light wide rims, cut and shut disc systems etc). It annoys me greatly when someone with not much trials knowledge waltzes in and thinks they know best....you don't! I am a profesional wheelbuilder for a well know bike company, you can't say spokes don't flex. the rigid mtbers may be making up excuses for not making it up the hills, but that isn't trials. Trials demands a whole new level from nearly every part of the bike. The flex in spokes is enough to take the "feel" out of the rear wheel when you need to be pin point accurite 10ft up on things barely bigger than your tyres. Unless you are riding in these conditions, don't make asumptions. As for actual braking power, I had a Saint, and very powerful it was too, I have also had a BB7 and that was on par with the Saint plus it was more adjustable. We use stuff that works, get off your high horse, just because we use cable brakes doesn't make us un educated morons. Just because I can't bleed a car brake doesn't mean I can't bleed a MTB brake. Can I hazzard a guess that you are an enginner by trade? Discs on mod are fine, you can use smaller rotors as the wheel doesn't have as much mechanical advantage.

they are Spanish arn"t they?

oh yeah lol, good job I have an opticians appointment on monday

personally, with that frame having vee brake mounts, I would just upgrade to a better vee. You won't have to mess with nasty evo 2 mounts then and the brake will be better than a magura

selling frames cheaper from his own shop than he charges to retailers.

discs are powerful enough, if I rode mod I would have rear disc no question. On a stock though, no matter what spokes and pattern you use, it will be more vague than stopping the wheel on the rim. another factor is hitting the rotor when missing a move (like a sidehop) and trashing it. Personally I am a huge fan of vee brakes, you mention water and oil making the performance weak, well Hydraulic rim brakes have the same issues, that"s why you grind the rims, to give the most braking power in all conditions. Combine a grind with some good pads, then the brake power is amazing. The same can be done for vee brakes, plus vees actually have a higher mechanical power so can work better than a hydraulic system and they have a lot more advantages too.

make a cod piece

possibly the only frame with bent tubes I like. Shame Bruno has as much business sense as a week old lamb so these frames wont be seen as much as they could be

onza

Very strange decision