Ali C

to quote Tartybikes: "These freewheels may appear to 'rattle' from new - this is down to the bearing system. It would be possible to add an extra bearing in and stop the rattle, however this would then cause the freewheel to lock up!"

I hate getting in trouble in anyway at all so I'll usually avoid places I know I'll get kicked off, however regarding how I'll react depends on how I am treated. Isome security guard comes up at insults me or is aggressive, I'll normally give as good as I get, if they are nice and treat me like a member of society I'll treat them with respect. Today I got told to "fall off" when riding along a wall by a group of lads above me on a slope, I treated this one with a show of my middle finger as I HATE people who want me to hurt myself. Dicks.

would the cutouts be for looks or weight saving? Either way I wouldn't bother, you'll save ~5g, is 5g really going to help with your riding? there would be a risk of the hub failing, it depends how well you do it.

you'll still need loads of stackers, but yeah, those bars are pretty sweet!

3x isn't overkill at all, the hub will thank you for it too. As said, don't bother with ti spokes, get some Sapin double butted instead. The echo TR axle is an M6 thread. Ti Rotor bolts are OK, make sure you use a good quality tool with them though to stop them rounding.

rolling the bars forwards usually puts most riders into a really nasty "elbows out" riding position. sure it makes the bike better on the rear wheel, but bikes are not pogosticks and should be setup to be ridden, it's not like they are hard to backhop with the bars in the correct position either.

but yeah, forwards sweep on a streety bike is a no go.

I'm on pay as you go. I hardly ever txt anyone, hardly ever call anyone and I top up my phone about every two months. I would find it handy to have the internets on my phone, but I don't want to spend £15+ every month to do so plus insurance if I got a posh one.

I tried some cruiser bars on a 24", felt pretty good, got the height pretty easily, but the setup weighed a tonne (the bars were 850g and the stem around 250g) which is just too much.

nope, it's usually the bottom bearing that goes first too. Are you replacing the bearings or getting a new headset each time? If you are replacing them, are you getting the correct angular contact bearings or normal bearings (like in hubs etc)?

I've decided that trying to put contacts in is the single most infuriating thing I have ever done. I must have tiny eyelids as I just can't hold them enough to not blink, the lens keeps on falling off my finger too. I HATE doing it, I would rather have blurry vision than do that every day (or every month). I would love to have eye surgery but I am not sure if I am short sighted enough to justify the costs, plus it freaks me out that you are concious when they do it, eeuugh.

looks painted to me, the way the cable has rubbed though looks more "painty", looks like you can see undercoats of darker colours too.

because a high short front end makes the bikes amazing, but no stem made is the right geo and no bars are the right height so stackers are the only way.

it was my impression that hollow axles are lexx likely to snap, but more likely to bend, a bit like older square taper bbs, the hollow ones were considered the ones to get as they didn't snap as much. Also don't hollow trees cope better in storms? Or Vice-versa

I disagree

idiot (pics prease)

did someone say Dan Ko???

I am on the same pair I put on last year

I wouldn't really say those pads have much hold at the best of times (heatsink yellows). If you are after hold I would deffo recommend some TNN LGM pads.

that's the same theory I have, I must admit I am not a huge fan of Hope brakes overall, all mine seem to go downhill pretty rapidly but I just think it's because I use my brake to slow down loads.

playing it now, seems alright.

yeah, that sounds like the bmx style "correct" way of doing them. the other one you described is a downside footjam whip. I find them the easiest out of all the techniques.

if you can do it without the brake you'll learn the "correct" way with the foot over the toptube and having to jump into it. not to say you shouldn't endo into it but the other way is more usable in different places rather than just on the flat. If you are getting it that far round just try and go into it with a bit more momentum and keep your weight fairly far forwards, keep watching the pedals and jump your feet onto them. it can take a while to get used to where the pedals are, I still suck at it!

looking good, I really liked that last tyre tap to sidehop line, it was bletin!