dezmtber

The student becomes the master great riding there dan,

I bought 10' 2x2" treated timer the other day for my log store it was about £4.50 about 3 of those and a massive piece of ply wood should do. i built a 4'x3' launch ramp a few years back for the jump bike it cost about 40-50 quid took about an hour or so to put together. you will need a jig saw and a drill. the 4x3 ramp managed to get us high enough to jump over the top of a hatchback car if you hit it at about 20mph. i would say go to 5x4 or bigger for a good lake ramp

I had toast with lambs liver also very nice

if he runs a road cassette then a road mech will come with that, a noisy road mech that clangs on the chainstay. with a mtb cassette he can run a shimano shadow or sram mech which will work much much better for trials n shopping runs he could still use a 9spd 11-32 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-x7-9-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod41155 this sram x7 i would say worth a shot

i dont have this very often, usualy a cerial for breaky. toast with butter, peanut butter and topped with golden syrup, pure gluttony

use a 32 with bash and the 11-34 then.

Cleric, heres the fix you were looking for. use a road caliper fixing nut all you need to do is drill out the threaded part to fit the nut and heypresto fixed and without any nuts to kill your knees http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-caliper-brake-sunken-nut/rp-prod17557

My mate rides a 20" and weighs about the same he normaly runs just over 25psi to keep back the punctures. if your leaning i would say around 20-25 psi

I have two bikes to ride and now and again I ride my 2 mile commute on the trial bike no problem, even when that used to be on a mod.

He could run a 26t cog up front with a mountain bike cassette 11-34 that wouldn't be all that bad

Moral of the story ffw like oil after a good old bit of wd40, it may help with water related issues

You can use pro 2 and evo hub body's will fit either of the axles bearings or freehub body's. the evo hub only changed the axle outer diameter on the freehub bearings, and the bearings on the freehub from 6802-6902 size bearings and the freehub body made to fit those bearings too. so so long as you are running a pro 2 hub evo or not you can buy a hub shell and upgrade the only other thing i have noticed was a change in the shape of the pawls from rounded backs to flat backs. I am not Shure if they changed for the 80 tooth. Maybe Adam will know

I used to have holyrollers for tgs and street and fat albert for natural. i now have air kings for both there literally awesome i almost cant believe the difference

I cant say anything about king hubs as i have only had little goes on them, what i have tryed they feel nice. i have used ffw and hope pro 2. and without a doubt the hope pro 2 is much better than any ffw i have ever run. fyi... I have never seen a hope pawl or drive ring snapped on 15 years of mechanics. i do see them newer pro2 springs snap but there £1 for a full set, and its usualy only one of four. and i have seen the geared alloy freehub body's snap on half on the evo hubs. (the springs broke due to corrosion on xc/road bikes and the geared hubs aren't for trials) but the trial/ss hubs just seem bombproof, had mine on for over a year only replaced one bearing just because i felt like it, it was a little knotchy. my chain snapped the kmc master link recently too.

My third leg is the dominant one

Heres clerictgm's hammer http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/179297-bike-instruments/page-1

Make a good ground anchor, use good quality steel chain and a lock designed to make it hard to cut with bolt cutters

sorry i am used to those being called headset cup removal tools, yes a 1 1/8-1 1/4. headset tool will work fine on integral/internal headset cups. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/tools/xpert_headset_rocket/c31p627.html or a careful hammer and punch will work well also. i prefer to put a rocket up it though. Works much better and removes the cups evenly so as not to damage your frame. http://m.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1 park tool do a very similar tool they quote it will remove all headsets from 1 1/8 to 44mm integral/internal and pb30 bottom brakets as a bonus

Clerits hammer.

of course not i run a 36t single ring on my 26" hard core hard tail with fox forx....mmmmmm i have ridden practicaly all of the manlyest trail centres no problem......... is chainline as important on a single ring as you think it is? . chainline was much more important when running a triple as if you got it wrong the chain simply wouldn't run on either big ring or granny ring at the extremes.

so long as your not to worried about chainline ect... use a granny ring to get 64bcd 22-28t rings, and a top guide with some modification it works very well. talking for most of the average mountain bike riders who like going the pub and eating cakes theres a lot of riders who use the granny ring toward the end of a days ride. there is a good alternative to this though, run whatever size narrow wide you like but leave the 22-24t ring on the crank and if you ever feel too tired and want to push up the hill just knock the chain onto the granny ring by hand and continue to ride rather than walk

On a 26" wheelsize using a rear 40t if you want to keep all the low end granny gears you will need a 28t cog on the front. and for every two teeth you go up by on the front you loose a cog at the rear. so daves 34t should feel much like running a 22x32 so same as old 8 speed triple pretty much.

So how long before fixed cogs are designed to fit these bb30 cranks

Bank of mum n dad then, cant be off the bike for months. Just remind them of how much you will get on there nerves if you stay home loads

Imo having fillings or theeth pulled is much worse. i didn't feel a thing getting the eye surgery done, and i cant even bare to get water in my eyes