walker

Any chance of someone puttin a direct link up?? sorry, to ask, but i really want to c this but the school t'internet has filtered the site for some reason -Andrew Any chance of someone puttin a direct link up?? sorry, to ask, but i really want to c this but the school t'internet has filtered the site for some reason -Andrew

Cheers for your offer Tom, but i cant get all the way down to kent, can anyone else further north (from tykes) give me a lift?? Im guessing your car is full Wayne, but if anyone drops out... -Andrew Thats good Wayne, so when's that new Belaey coming?? -Andrew

So how many nights will you be staying for Wayne? Wat happens in the week leading up to KOXX Days, is that the koxx kamp?? -Andrew

Does anyone have a spare seat in their car whose going? I really really want to go, so please get in touch if you can offer anything, im willing to travel a bit and pay fuel costs etc.. Thanks -Andrew

Just like chris, i am also looking for transport to get to koxx days, if thats possible with anyone, im willing to pay fuel costs etc. please help, Cheers, Andrew

I had a really good first comp on the leeson, i could moan about the silly 5s but i wont. I went over the handle bars in my dads section, that hurt. I managed to 5 a section due to not having my stem bolts tight enough, stupid!! Thanks to the organisers/observers and section setters.Good to see so many people at the comp with loads of new faces, even if the queues were a bit longer. Im looking forward to the brit champs in 3 weeks time. Also, what does Chris Ratcliffe do with the photos he was taking? -Andrew

LEESON 505 Nuff said -Andrew

i'll b up 4 it, and my mates from around, about 5-7 peeps -Andrew

So what are the onza carbons like in shape compared to the zoos? My mate is gonna sell me some onza carbon 28" ones for a tenner -Andrew

I can do 7 crates on my Leeson mod easily, but i am so close to doing 8 but (the same height as one totally verticle pallet) i just havnt managed it yet. I'm doing this by either bunnyhopping or pedal hopping and clearing the front wheel completely. I want to learn how to tap, i get the height but not the distance, it just shoots me straigt up, but i cant get forward, what do i need to do? -Andrew

Comment on why you chose certain bar would be appreciated -Cheers Andrew

Which ones should i choose, i currently have try-alls and they are too low and flat/flexy. Cheers- Andrew

this is what you want, there isn't a more responsive or more ridgive frame than this, and this has a 1038 wheelbase and it looks the dogs nads. But its up to you. -Andrew

Yer, rides really nice, i havnt ridden it a lot but the geometry makes it feel very similar to my old koxx, but it is more solid. -Andrew

Just to let you know there is a pic of my new leeson on the bike pics thread, so take a look if you havnt already seen it. -Andrew

The tensione. I'd like to appologise for advertising. It was not my intention, i was just excited about my new frame. Clive Leeson certainly does not need advertising for his frames. He has a waiting list, and plenty of dedicated customers. The tensioner is really solid and it set up by slackening the wheel, setting it to the correct tension and then tightening the wheel bolts. It works very well. I havn't had much time to ride the frame yet, but i am really pleased so far. Comments welcome and i will answer any more questions. -Andrew

The steel used is very high quality and has a high tensile strength, and in general steel is more stiff than aluminium. This means that it flexes less when you put a lot of power into it, this is what makes it more responsive. Stan, it is probably ver similar in weight to my level boss, the steel is thin, so it is certainly not bomb proof, and tubes are butted to reduce weight, overall, Leeson frames are very light. I picked up Chris Leeson's 24" today, it was featherlight!! -Andrew

Firstly, this is not just a "hey, look at my new frame" thread, so please dont close it. Some of you may have seen a frame like this before. Its the Clear 505, a mod frame and its only the third one to be made. It features Reynolds 725 steel tubes and the geometry is personalised. This is my frame that i collected today and it rides like a dream. The steel tubes makes the frame much more responsive than a regular aluminium frame and this allows you to get the power that you put into a move into air/distance. The frame also features the trademark 360 dropouts. This means that the chain needs a small tensioner under the chain. This, in my opinion is better than the usual sliding rear wheel, because the wheel is in a fixed position which means that you only have to set ur brakes up once. The tensioner works very well and silently. This is an ideal 20" frame for comps, the geometry on mine is based on my old Koxx levelboss long and, although i havn't weighed it yet, it is no heavier. For the amount of craftsmanship and attention to detail that is put into this frame, it is a bargain at £400 and it looks the dogs. What do you think of it? -Andrew

basically, but mines gonna look a bit different, different geometry an a different seat tube, it will look the dogs. ill put pics up when i get it tomorrow. Everyone will want one!!! -Andrew

Leeson mod. Not many of them around, i'm going to pick up mine tomorrow, brand new, cant wait!!! I'll post pics when i get it. -Andrew

the bearings are slack, to tighten them, take off the end cap with a small flat blade screwdriver and then undo the locknut on the end of the axel with a 12mm socket (i think) when this is undone, turn the nut behind the locknut clockwise to tighten it, but just a bit, then retighten the locknut and see how tight the bearings are. adjust the tension i this way until u r happy, then replace the cap and pump the body full of grease through the grease port with a small syringe. hope this helps -Andrew

unfortunately i could not make the trial at the weekend, i have no frame at the moment, so i rode a motorbike trial instead. Wish i was there cos it sounds like it was a good trial, even if it was muddy. I totally agree with Chris about the swearing. There are many young riders who look to riders in the higher classes and they should not expect to hear bad language. I hope you all come to the first tyke trial round and make it a good competition, think i'll stay in expert for now as i havnt ridden natural in a couple of months. 26th of feb is the next trial i believe, so i hope to see you all there, Anyone know where i can obtain an entry form? Cheers, Andrew

This is mine, for December -Andrew

I was really disappointed not to be able to ride today, it was a really good trial and i liked the more flowing sections up on the top rather than in the bottom. Wayne, ur 180 gap to hook was totally insane, you must lack brain cells!!! You were also stupid enough to do it in the section!! That deserves respect. Looking forward to next season with there hopefully being a comp towards the end of january. -Andrew

People say that going to the same side as ur lead foot is the wrong way (ie, in this pic i am hopping to the right and i am right foot forward. They say, and most pros / street riders prefer to go the opposite side to their lead foot, this is generally known to be the correct way. This is because when you lead with ur front foot it passes closer to the object, so ur more likely to catch ur foot on the way up going the wrong way. However, i dont believe it matters, i can go equally high each way and i practise both. I can sidehop to pedal better to the right and hold it (this is important because i ride comps). Less experienced riders are more likely to sidehop the wrong way because it feels more natural, so u hav to get yourself out of that habit to do it the correct way. - Andrew