george_seamons

My turbo and manifold have been sent (and received) by one of the 1.8t tuning legends, to be bored out from 42mm to 47mm. Hopefully that will see the back of the choking I was experiencing! Now I just have to wait for him to fit them in, he is a very busy man. Really looking forward to getting it back. Should notice a fair difference by all accounts, even unmapped and on actuator pressure. Nick, what are you doing with your old bells?

Most of them are, to be fair. You get the odd few that aren't dicks, but most retail park meets descend into chav-fests after a few hours.

I was more talking about supplying the garage from a house. I get a lot of people thinking that it's ok to use 2.5mm cable to supply a shed because "2.5mm is socket cable". That may be the case, but running it over 100m and expecting the same power you are putting in at one end is never going to work. We work directly with UK Power Networks as a sub-contractor daily, so I know for a fact £2000 will not get you a new supply. As an example...a new service to a street light (from an existing supply within 3m) is around £650 +vat. £2000, is nowhere near enough.

You need to take into account volt drop too. A 63 amp supply over a long distance will need a much bigger cable than you might think.

As annoying as that thing has been, I have always really loved the look of it. Shame it wasn't a petrol turbo, that would have been awesome!

Yeah, Nick said. I guess it's because there is less turbulence in the pipes with a bigger volume. Needed it really, since the Badger5 manifold, it's f**king ridiculous...sounds amazing, but seriously cringey around anywhere built up! Not seen it since 064 no, but can imagine the awesomeness. Hopefully I'll be hitting similar numbers (if Bill's Lupo is anything to go by...plus mine has an advantage over his being large port). Either way, I just need boost again, actuator pressure is so dull!

My new 3" turbo-back exhaust setup came today...it looks HUGE!!! Hopefully it makes shit flow a bit better!

You 100% have not done the whole job on your own. You said so yourself. It's not a difficult job by any means, it's just awkward and a bit time consuming having to fudge around the big lump of metal that makes access challenging. Any cambelt is the same principle: either lock the crank and cam with locking tools, or line up the timing marks. The only difference is the amount of crap you have to get out of the way to get the belt on and off. Have a go if you are confident...it's only nuts and bolts! Just turn it over by hand a couple of times to check the timing before you fire it up!

Martin, get the car to TDC, and put a reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and another on the head at a suitable place where they line up. That way, you will always have a reference point as long as you don't turn the cams 180 degrees when you take the belt off. That way belt stretch isn't an issue (as long as you get the timing marks correct and the marks are put on while the timing is spot on obviously!

Exactly as Paul said, it's only because you talk down to somebody that has actually done the job themselves, and basically told them they have done it wrong. Using your analogy, it's like me telling you that you are cooking toast wrong. Even though you have cooked toast countless times yourself, and there is really only one way to do it.

Jardo, don't talk as if you are an expert...you have never done a cambelt on your own. Watching somebody do it doesn't count! The mount IS an issue, even if you remove that lot. The chassis rail gets in the way, no matter how much you jack it up. The tensioner pulling back is something you learn very quickly after having to do the job twice the first time you do it!

Belt stretch wouldn't affect the timing marks though. I've done loads of cambelts now, and still wince every time I start the car for the first time! My car still remains the worst though, bloody engine mount gets in the way every single time, and you can only get it out by removing half of the engine to begin with! That, and a hydraulic belt tensioner that has to be compressed to reinstall makes it a REAL chore!

Nah, didn't have to pay full whack. He only had it on the dyno to do a health check. The way the map is to run it at it's absolute full potential first, to see if it can cope, rather than wasting a week building up to it and wasting all that time and money. Think he said it would be £60, but he also said he will take that off the cost of the final map...so it's basically free. Yesterday really showed what community spirit is all about. I was ready to hand the towel in and sell the car, but the generosity of several people has encouraged me to carry on. I just hope it is worth it in the long run, I really have had enough of this car now!

So...mapping was a total disaster! Due to badly selected exhaust parts working against each other, the turbo which produced 353bhp on Prawn's car would only ever produce 280bhp on mine. ...back to the drawing board then! Gutted isn't even the word. When I rang for a progress update to be told that, my heart dropped Have ordered a new better flowing downpipe and exhaust, and am getting the turbo hotside and exhaust manifold enlarged, so at the end of it hopefully I will end up with more power than I was originally hoping for. That's the plan anyway! Whether it actually makes more is another story!

Why does she need a week "off" to see if she misses you? If she doesn't know if she will miss you or not, she doesn't want to be with you. As much as it sucks dude, I agree with the others saying it's time to move on. It's hard to let go...but sometimes it's better to be the bigger person and cut it off before you get hurt anymore.

I like your wheels too

ESP has nothing to do with the speed sensor, it uses the abs rings to determine speed. When I had a speed sensor fault, my fuel gauge went nuts, as well as the speedo. You obviously dont have that problem, so presumably its not the same thing. Not sure about Ibizas, but on my O2M box, the only electrical connectors are the speed sensor and the reverse switch (apart from the starter motor wiring of course). Ibiza box could be different, but theres not really anything else you need to detect on a box (apart from maybe fluid level or temperature...neither of which an Ibiza has provisions to monitor).

If its an O2M box, it IS the speed sensor.

Bigger Gayer Wing needs to be born. Proper DTM style

Needs more aero! Get the BGW back on!

It was literally on boost for a second to see if it would boost, to see if my switch wiring was correct. Wasn't going to go flat out on boost, I know it would kill it. I was more on about the noise it made dumping the boost, sounded very sexy...had forgotten what more than 14psi was like!

Me too! Will be interesting to see what difference the B5 manifold makes...our setups were pretty much the same otherwise. I flicked the n75 on to check the wiring I had extended was ok, and it overboosted to 25psi...good god it made a sexual noise!

Niki. Bill is a million miles away from me.

Taking it to the place that can custom map, yes. My AMD map never caused me any issues, was more than happy with the performance. Just looking for tailor made mapping now, and anti social things like no lift shift, launch control and anti lag...not something AMD offer.

So, 5 days until my car goes in for its custom mapping. Finally got all the little jobs sorted to get it mappable (fitting new coilover spring platforms to replace the seized ones, raising the coilovers, changing lambda sensor, changing cone filter, extend boost solenoid wiring, alter wmi wiring, fit new wmi solenoid, fit new battery in boot, fit replacement exhaust manifold...to name a few!) The custom mapping was originally booked for 21st December, but what with my crash, and various other things getting in the way, it's been a long time coming! Just hope nothing else goes wrong in the mean time...this car has a bit of a habit of doing that! Passenger door lock is getting a bit intermittent, but that can wait for the time being. This next 2 weeks is going to go VERY slowly!