george_seamons

My LCR is the best thing in the world

Touchy I get the whole sunroof removal thing, 100% - extra weight, leaks etc. However, the way you have carried it out is absolutely atrocious! It's so bad it's verging on hilarious. I get you want to have a go, and are trying to learn in the process, but take a step back and have a look at what you've done...it literally looks like you've just covered half the roof in a bit of metal you had laying around. The contours are all wrong, it's out of proportion, and you are now saying you're going to have countless bolts sticking through?! "Track Car" has become synomomous with scrotes stripping cars out and driving like dicks - 99% of them never even see a track.

"Track Car" that has only ever been on track once. Hate that phrase SO much! It's not a f**king track car...it's a car you have ruined in the name of going fast. Nothing "track" about it.

Did you style your roof on the bonnet of that one?

Erm...no...still looks shit, lol!

Paul: 1) Centre of crankshaft pulley to oil cap is 430mm on mine 2) Left to right engine angle: 3) Front to back engine angle: Angles taken using an app on my phone, taken from the flattest part of the rocker cover I could find. I've not used the app before...hopefully it makes sense! (Ignore the vertical angles)

Sorted then?

One bearing on: One diff in the freezer:

I love CNC'd stuff. Literally fascinates me. Could watch the machines all day

Looks awesome, cheers! There is a gasket to go either side of the face, so as long as the chamfer isn't too deep, it should be ok. As long as its 15mm material thickness, its all good to hit the button

Tried the actuator yet? I'd put money on it losing its springiness after 12 years!

The only thing I am changing is the diff and the bearings on either end. There is a shim installed between the gearbox casing and one of the bearing races to take up any slack. Apparently the stock shim is normally sufficient...but knowing my luck I will have to order one! I think the tolerences are fairly reasonable to be fair. I am hoping to get the box back together next weekend, but if I need a shim it won't be until the following weekend. The diff is currently in my freezer shrinking slighlty awaiting the installation of the bearings (which will go in the oven to expand them slightly). Doing it this way should mean there is no need to press the bearings on. Fortunately the missus hasn't yet opened the freezer door

Busy day today, started my LSD install. Spent an age drilling the rivets out, they were mega hard! Needed a 10 ton hydraulic press to get the studs in too...fortunately I was doing it in a friends workshop! Box split open after removing 234565 bolts. Standard open diff showing. Drilled the 12 rivets out to seperator the crown wheel, then chucked the stock diff in the bin Crown wheel cleaned up and ready to meet the new LSD LSD split open, with the top half cleaned ready to be mated to the crown wheel (look at all those metally guts!) All the nuts fitted (with the supplied lube), and torqued to spec Backside of the new LSD, showing the ridiculously expensive (£120 for 12!!!) ARP studs pressed in The guts of the VAG 02M, in all their naked glory!

Not as much as you make us laugh! You've f**ked it. It looks shit. You cannot just cover it up. No matter what you do, it'll be noticeable.

f**k sake Jardo. You are hopeless, haha! You can't just cover that, it will look like total shit! Re-skinned roof is surely the only option?

Nah, you'd never have known that was going to happen. Literally no warning whatsoever. Just put his foot down and the pedal didn't come back up. He's planning to run a hybrid turbo anyway, so the clutch was on the list of things to do...just not 2 hours after he bought it! Even factoring a clutch replacement, its still a really good deal.

Went with a friend to pick up an '04 plate Leon Cupra R last night in Luton. 200 mile round trip. Swapped a modified PD130 VW Bora worth £1200-£1500 at the absoulte most for it, plus £200 cash. The Leon is a £2500+ car any day of the week...so my friend got an absolute steal really. However, 2 miles from home, the slave cylinder in the gear box shat itself (brake fluid dripping out of the bell housing). I pissed my pants...so unlucky!

PM'd Alex and Greg, but not heard anything back?

Nice to see you've included the standard Land Rover "puddle"

Splitting my gearbox and fitting a limited slip diff this weekend. Never done it before...could be interesting, haha!

You're just a car salesman with a fancy badge, come on

Wasn't that the same customer you were shagging?! You are a typical salesman through and through...straight from the mould. Obviously good at your job, but you have the attitude to match!

Pretty sure the stock actutor is 0.5 bar (7psi), so sounds like it could be getting tired. Sometimes you can stick a couple more turns on the nut to alter the preload so its at the right pressure. Have to be careful that you don't do it too much though. A boost guage is very helpful for setting the actuator up. If it won't adjust back, the only option is to get a replacement actuator.

I don't do salesman bullshit. If I want the car I'll buy it. Don't need some jumped up knobber in a suit trying to get in my head to tell me what I want to do. If you said that to me I'd make sure everybody knew about it!

Thanks Greg, very helpful! Don't worry about the tapped hole if you haven't got the bits to do it, I can always sort that at a later date if needed. Chuck me a PM once you have an idea of cost