Janson

plaz crm + tar is very nice. brown bloxx + fanta is pretty nice aswell.

that was disturbing. not a fan of the tune, but the riding more than made up for it.

shimano tiagra for life. they are THE shit.

aww cheers munki :ermm:

snow cats have been arond for ages. i know a guy who ran one on the back of his crescent. it was cool. way before the 47mm fad.

i got so awsome when i realised what i could do with a bit of time, imagination and a workshop. the tricky bit with machining backings is how to make them stick to the magura cylinder. i did those with a manual mill and a lathe (go figure), no NC stuff needed really.

tiagra is the shit. tiagra mech, random cogs and spacers of different sizes, and a 90's style thumb shifter is the way to go. fully comp legal in every country, easy to shift, easy to fine tune mech because of the friction shifter, so if you get a minor knock on the mech you can just compensate at the lever. also looks awsomely pimp with a big black thumbshifter on the bar.

i have heard that the profile cassette hubs do not work very well on stock trials bikes. i can not guarantee that this information is correct, but it is only what i have heard. king?

VCD: ~1000kbit mpg. 25 fps, 352x288 pix. never fails. nothing bad about divx etc but i have not really found the same quality in divx than mpg for the effort etc. mpg still rules. also, higher res than 352x288 is bullplop anyways, unless you run the video interlaced, but then it will be all stripy.

thats one of the mike vallely clips from a cky film isnt it? the one with skater fag.

yeah, that's what i mean. an undrilled rim needs one strip of electrical tape, while a drilled needs several layers of electrical or gaffer tape = weiiiiiight.

yeah didnt think of the flex in mod wheels. i ran drilled dx32 and superlight tube. it is alright, but i'd really prefer an undrilled rim, mostly because it is practical.

dx32 are the shit. you can feel the flex in drilled rims, i am definitely going back to undrilled rear rims again. they look cleaner, less hassle with drilling etc, dont fill up with mud and water, only need 1 layer of electrical tape instead of a boatload of gaffer tape etc. drilled rims do not save -that- much weight really. superlight tubes is where it's at!

two of my designs.

onza ronnie, alex dx32. much harder than tryall

http://features.entensity.net/fmedia/skate.asf

especially when i used one for 12+ months with only a strip/clean/relube when i got it. didnt touch it after that, well, only tightened it ever so often. i would have liked to try an EMO (sic) out for a bit but theyre pricy and stuff.

ACS aren't THAT badly made. Well, they're kind of dodgy, but they tend to work unless you're an idiot and or have bad luck.

everything over 36 is just icing on the cake though. more EP = better sound. or something.

england. haha.

FFW is a good, cheap and easy way of getting 36 engagement points, but still being able to ride with gears. I have had no major problems with running an ACS Claws freewheel on my Tensile cranks, but fixed hubs are still something that needs taking care of by the big companies. Echo and Try-All hubs are expensive, and cheese, especially the ones of Echo variety, or so I have been told. I ran a locked out Deore hub for about 10 months. The only downsides are that it's heavy, needs constant tightening, doesn't spin very smoothly and the axles eventually snap. Spare axles are readily avaliable for a fiver from most shops though. All in all, a great way of trying quicker engagement for not that much cash, if you have a set of threaded cranks like Echo, Tensile or Try-All that is. I'm going King now though. Gotten fed up with the Deore hub on the back, and want to see how I get along with double the engagement. ACS are hugely underrated items though. Keep it tight and clean and you'll be laughing.

Coustellier St. Blaise: 100 mm top and bottom. id like to try a set of those in my custom aluminium backings.

you might want a spacer on the bb axle. some bbs come with them, some don't. i know i have to use one if i want to keep the tabs on my freewheel.

Most pads are between 6 and 8mm thick depending on manufacturer. But they wear down eventually anyway. The best way of making it work is getting a set of custom extra thick brake backings done.

would have preferred a louis vuitton but they're comp specific.